I'd personally rather a 610. But 2 115s would be great too, and will probably fit easier into smaller cars, if that's a problem.
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Yeah, that sounds like exactly what I'm doing, 15s to 10s and back to 15s ... for goodI have had both setups. To me it's been simply 10 give tighter and punchier response. 15 boom more. I think the power and cleaness of tone is based alot on the amp you use and how it's set up. Tastes change. I started 15", switched to lots of 10”. Migrating back to 15”. This is over the last 25 years for perspective.

You do realize that your amp has a master volume knob you can always turn down if you find you're too loud right? And your bass should have a volume knob too.I'm expecting a drop in volume, based on our last gig a little less volume would be a plus.
You do realize that both your amp has a master volume knob you can always turn down if you find you're too loud right? And your bass should have a volume knob too.
Just because you wouldn't be as loud as you currently are doesn't mean the rest of the group will turn down to match. In my experience you always want to bring more than you think you need because eventually...you'll need it.
I wonder what's up with the current TB trend of hate for 15's. I suspect FUD (Fear, Uncertainty and Doubt). Perhaps penis envy. Bro. Stumbo, have you ever noticed how all the cone area calculations are based on diameter, ignoring the fact that speaker cones are cone shaped? Well, area of a circle is much easier to calculate that area of a cone![]()
Understood. However, the TSPs fail to explain how TB as a whole is quick to point out (a guessed) area of a cone based on the nominal hole cutout diameter specified by the speaker manufacturerThe problem with that logic is that a speaker is only a cone when it's stationary. When it moves it's a circle moving back and forth. It's a cylinder actually. That cylinder of speaker diameter times excursion is called the displacement or Vd.
2x15's will putout like 4x10's so you would need another 15 to have the same speaker area.
1. Speaker area does not tell the full story, you need to add the speaker xmax to the calculation.
2. I played through SWR 410 workingpro cabs and they would flap out. The Goliath series would not so there is a very practical difference between 10" cabs.
3. Gigging my Trace Elliot 2x15 made me realize that room acoustics have a lot of influence on your sound with 15's... At the mic stand in front of my stack I could often not hear my bass at all, elsewhere on stage I could so I ditched that cab. No more 15's or larger for me! I do not have these problems with 10's or 12's.
4. 12" cabs have been rapidly gaining popularity for a reason. They sound tight like 10", are less prone to flap out and mostly they translate the midrange frequencies better so you are more audible in the mix without having to be overly loud.
Ergo: avoid 15" and have a look at lightweight 2x12 cabs. Mine does a whopping max 134db measured at 1m distance, across the frequency spectrum. This should be more then enough for most stages.
UmmmmWhy not try the best of both worlds... 1 x 15" and 4 x 10" -
Personally, i prefer 15's as I feel like you get a better low-end phat bass tone! But a combination would give you versatility.
Plus you could turn up to a gig with either a 15 or 4 x 10...