I like that the cabs sound that much alike. Can you maybe explain where they are similar and where they are different?
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2013 Ampeg V-4B 100W Reissue Pt2
- Thread starter Chef
- Start date
I like that the cabs sound that much alike. Can you maybe explain where they are similar and where they are different?
I went for the 1 or 2 cab option of 2 112AVs. Great flexibility. Unlimited cash I'd have both, and probably a lot of other gear I don't need along with them. The schlep isn't bad, I usually stack the cabs on top of the road case for my amp and roll them around.
I'm using two non-neo single 15's right now and for me the flexibility of getting that sound in large and small configurations is well worth the extra weight and cost. I don't often need both but when I do my old used up knees and back would much rather deal with two 50lb lifts in and outta the car than one 80lb one, wheels do the rest. Two 112AV's is the way I'd go too.
Not surprising to hear they sound like the 212AV. One thing Ampeg does really well is nail the Ampeg sound. That might sound like a statement of the obvious but when you compare cabs and amps through the line it's almost always unmistakably there even in the lower end and SS stuff.
Not surprising to hear they sound like the 212AV. One thing Ampeg does really well is nail the Ampeg sound. That might sound like a statement of the obvious but when you compare cabs and amps through the line it's almost always unmistakably there even in the lower end and SS stuff.
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My memory is alas too hazy to recollect the small differences if any regarding sound.
Volume: zero difference.
For those who like details: I have added feet on the side of the SVT112AV cabs, so the tolex is protected against scuffs.
(and not a day too soon, since there are already some scratches...)
I'm planning to do this as well. bought the feet but not the screws yet. what size did you use? did you pre-drill?
Going to stack them vertically when I use my smaller walkabout head to get the speaker higher up.
I didn't pre-drill, for I had those screws with a drill-head/point (if that makes any sense to you).
More important, though IMO, that the size of the screw relates directly to the feet.
(What I did was first unscrew one stock foot, measured the length of the screw that actually enters the wood.
Then compare the new foot to the old, so to be able to buy screws with the right length.)
Hope this helps a bit
More important, though IMO, that the size of the screw relates directly to the feet.
(What I did was first unscrew one stock foot, measured the length of the screw that actually enters the wood.
Then compare the new foot to the old, so to be able to buy screws with the right length.)
Hope this helps a bit
This is packed up in my truck for a gig tonight. Can't wait....(I did bring Monique not sure I will take her out)
Parts of it get hot, parts don't. As long as it's parts that are supposed to get hot, like the transformer and tubes, it's all good. Since it doesn't have a fan, if it wigs you out, you could stick a little outboard fan on it, but it's not needed. V4B's never had fans because they're self-cooling.
Burwabit
Likes guitars that tune good and firm feelin women
Thanks Jimmy, I kind of assumed as much, but wanted to ask.
I had noticed at a hot practice the other day, when I went to switch off my amp - the front panel was pretty hot (like normal) but the rear panel was almost painful-to-the-touch-hot. It was admittedly a humid/hot day (with room temps probably in the early 80s), and we had been playing for a few hours, so that could justify the difference(?) Or at least made me take notice more than usual(?)
I just wasn't sure if there was some thermal protections in place that might end up cutting the amp on me(?), or if that is more of a solid state or class d thing(?) (mainly referring to something akin to the thermal protection of the PF series for example).
I suppose I'll keep paying attention to it...
I'm not sure what they use for cooling, but I imagine it's got some heat sinks in it. And I've played mine outdoors on some really hot days and it's yet to cut out on me. A very good question about what kind of protection it has, though. About all I know is resistors to act as fuses for the power tubes in the event of catastrophic failure.
Very cool gig, very worried this band would have concerns with an arena size amp but they loved it. I thought I was pretty loud on stage but it was quite the opposite, I was asked to turn UP a few times by the band. And I spent most of my breaks chatting with patrons about my cool amp. I only really care about having enough headroom and sounding good but it also sets a very cool visual vibe.
The V4BR has no thermal protection. The new PF-20T and PF-50T do. Tubes can take the heat, electrolytic capacitors can have their service life shortened.
It never hurts to circulate the air around the back of the amp and keep the temperature down. You can get a small tiltable, quiet desk fan and tilt it up so that it blows onto the back of the amp. It makes a big difference with any amp.
Honeywell Turbo Force Air Circulator Fan HT-900-WMT - Walmart.com
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When I first gigged my new V4B, I too was concerned at how hot the front panel felt when I went to dial the knobs at mid-gig. Darn thing felt very hot to me; although this is my first time owning a tube amp. Coming here, many said this is typical, so I didn't give it much thought afterwards, just let it sit for a few mins at end of gig. I thought back then and more now that I may just order some type of small clip on fan to point into the rear of the amp just to cool 'er down some.
If nothing more than to maybe keep the heat factor down to my touch. There's enough hot lights and other gear generating heat on our stages without adding more. A tiny fan may not make a huge difference what with the hot summer days coming up here in TX at some outdoor/open venue gigs. And as many have said, never any shutdown issue from this muy caliente amp. Though with all my lower volume restaurant gigs lately, only using my 112AV with my 'Peg-head; the 212AV or BF Big Twin-T cabs just sitting parked for some time now. I wanna play real loud again....never thought I'd say that.
Must be the heat here. 
If nothing more than to maybe keep the heat factor down to my touch. There's enough hot lights and other gear generating heat on our stages without adding more. A tiny fan may not make a huge difference what with the hot summer days coming up here in TX at some outdoor/open venue gigs. And as many have said, never any shutdown issue from this muy caliente amp. Though with all my lower volume restaurant gigs lately, only using my 112AV with my 'Peg-head; the 212AV or BF Big Twin-T cabs just sitting parked for some time now. I wanna play real loud again....never thought I'd say that.
Must be the heat here.
For the record I did one set in the 0db input, mostly ran gain and master around noon or a bit less. Another set in the -15db input with gain around 2 oclock and the master at varying levels depending on the EQ. I use a broughton HPF to keep the stage clean and tune the room a bit. I've learned to become a bit adventurous with regard to EQ for tone shaping. One of my favorites is diming the mids and backing off T and B and running the master hot. Much like my Jule Monique the V4b is a vital instrument for me and not just a volume knob.
