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34" 5-string: anti-floppy B query

Nov 6, 2003
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This may be opening up old wounds, but I need to ask those who have more 5-string experience than I do.

I'm a 4-string player looking to build my own 5-string. From the 35" basses I've tried (MTD, Fender, Carvin, Ibanez, etc.) I really didn't like the extra reach. The 34" 5-strings I tried (Tobias, Pedulla, etc.) convinced me that I don't want to change scale.

But what is the secret to avoiding "floppy B syndrome"?
Is it neck stiffness?
Is it headstock angle?
Is it moving the B tuner farther away from the nut?
Is it any, all or none of the above?
 
IMO, its 3 main things. A stiff neck, a rock solid neck-joint, and a good, massive bridge. The bridge doesn't have to be heavy, just good and solid. These are common elements I've found all good low B strings, whether they are 34" or 35" scale. My $0.02, YMMV.
 
Double Agent's post makes sense to me. The headstock angle and moving the tuner won't do anything to change the peceived tension on the B.

IMO/IME on a well-built instrument the perception of a 'floppy' B has more to do with the strings and the amp than 34" vs 35" scale.
 
i was thinking about this a few days ago. i have a spector rebop (35") and the b-string is a little floppier than my cheap hamer slammer (34"). i've tried to figure out why. my only guess is from the ball of the b-string to the tuner is about 37" on my spector. my hamer has a reverse headstock and i haven't measured but i'd it's about 39". so even though the nut to bridge length is an inch shorter, the ball to tuner length is 2 inches longer. i like the b on my spector. but i expected a super tight string with all the talk about 35" b-strings coming from my 34".
 
abarson, I'm no physicist, but I once asked a physics professor about this, and her off-the-top-of-her-head response was pretty much that only string gauge and scale length should have anything above a negligible effect on string tension.

Since you're set on a 34" scale, I'd say, just use heavier-gauge B strings.

Dean, are you using the same kind of strings on both basses?
 
You could also experiment with different strings - either get a heavy gauge or strings made of a different material or a different maker (I find D'Addario chromes pretty tense, love them for that).

You could up-tune a halfstep. You'll lose just the low B note, but tension-wise it will behave like a 35" bass. And you still go deep enough, unless you insist on a B.

All these combined, the B will be very, very tense. I did all of these on my 34", the only way I could use the B string actually.
 
abarson, I'm no physicist, but I once asked a physics professor about this, and her off-the-top-of-her-head response was pretty much that only string gauge and scale length should have anything above a negligible effect on string tension.

Winner!! I use nothing less than a .130 on my B strings.2 have a .135. The only way to effect string tension,is to change something between the bridge saddle,and nut.
 
abarson, I'm no physicist, but I once asked a physics professor about this, and her off-the-top-of-her-head response was pretty much that only string gauge and scale length should have anything above a negligible effect on string tension.

The physics behind this explanation is sound (no pun intended).

Much of what is perceived as tension in strings is actually pliability, or a lack thereof. My own personal experiences also lead me to believe that you cab may have something to do with any perceived sonic floppiness.
 
Dean, are you using the same kind of strings on both basses?

i thought i was. my spector has d'addario 45-130 and i thought that's what i always put on my hamer. but i can't say for sure. i don't play enough to have to change the strings regularly... with the time between changes i might have used 50-??? for my hamer.

don't get me wrong. my b-string is floppy on my spector. i just think it's tighter on my hamer. i'll try to get it out and play around on both and make sure i'm not just making up stuff. :D