Now that neck is definitely off. I was assuming it was a design trait.View attachment 3354680 View attachment 3354681
These are all extremely good points and I thank you for making them although in my case I am I almost always tuned BEAD so I’m already playing a little higher up the neck -at least usually- than most IMHO & also one of the best things about this bass is how LIGHTWEIGHT the body is which, of course, just exacerbates the balance problem that the neck in the wrong place presents
Also This isnt the only bass I have to hand so I can afford for it being out of commission for a bit
I think you can see from the photos, by the way, that the bridge has “crept up“ to follow the neck(!) and a comparison with a genuine Fender or precision clone would show it’s not as close to the back body edge as it should be.
I have to admit that your ‘if it ain’t broke don’t fix it’ attitude is admirably sensible than my own!
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$67 Glarry P-Bass
- Thread starter JamesNC
- Start date
Wow, that is seriously off. I just went and checked, and the Glarry J is well centered, while the noname P is slightly off, but nowhere near that far misaligned. Luck of the draw, I guess.
Ordered the Glarry P-bass just after midnight on 3/1/2019. Delivered via FedEx SpeedPost/USPS from the CA warehouse to Fort Lauderdale, FL on Friday, 3/8/2019.
After seeing the neck misalignment pictures quoted by FingerDub, I went back and looked at the rest of merseymale's pictures and then I went and looked at my basses. My necks on mine are more properly installed than what is in those pictures. Also, my tuning machines are not misaligned like that. I surely do NOT like the build quality on that one! I feel lucky!
I find the observations about build quality interesting and informative but I would say two things about this bass:
1. Is it playable and comfortable and good sounding, even if it takes some setup (either at home or professionally)? If so, why worry over these imperfections?
2. It's 68 bucks. Expectations shouldn't run too high.
When I get mine, if it holds tune and doesn't catch on fire after playing it awhile, or electrocute me, I'll consider myself ahead of the game.
1. Is it playable and comfortable and good sounding, even if it takes some setup (either at home or professionally)? If so, why worry over these imperfections?
2. It's 68 bucks. Expectations shouldn't run too high.
When I get mine, if it holds tune and doesn't catch on fire after playing it awhile, or electrocute me, I'll consider myself ahead of the game.
If you note in my review of the noname P bass, I said that the allen key socket of the truss rod sunk lower into the neck as I tightened it. I would not think such an instrument would make a stable backup. There is a fault there somewhere. I am only guessing, but I think that the truss rod will sink further and eventually be unadjustable. And then, someday, this bass's action will be intolerably high, rendering the bass useless. The real difference between the Glarry J and the noname P is the name on the headstock and the obvious style differences, they are otherwise alike. I believe they came from the same factory.
Anyone reading my posts on this basis would think that I am very Forgiving BUT if my Glarry had a defective TrussRod then THAT would be too much
WarriorsLance, if your bass is still under warranty then it’s return time surely...
Definitely a last-set switcharoo candidate, due to lightness!
Okay, I hope this helps folks understand what I meant when I say that the truss rod sunk when I tightened it on the noname P bass. As I tightened the nut, it moved towards the back side of the neck, the side where your thumb is. I was not trying to say that it moved towards the bridge. I took my flashlight and looked at both basses into the truss rod nut opening by the string nut and there is no doubt that the P bass slot for the truss rod is WAY oversized. They simply used a too large of a drill bit/mill or whatever the cutting tool was. I do not know what the nut has to push against. If nothing, the truss rod would not tighten at all, so there must be some surface taking the pressure as the neck relief did change when I tightened the nut. On the other hand, the Glarry J bass truss rod nut is hard against the underside of the fretboard, as if it is not tightened at all, or has the right sized slot. Either way, that neck has the proper relief as it is. If I cannot get a normal allen key in the nut on the P bass, a ball end allen key would definitely work and for a while longer.
On a side note, both plastic string nuts look like crap! Time to buy some bone and have at it.
On a side note, both plastic string nuts look like crap! Time to buy some bone and have at it.
That there are four position markers past the octave tells me this is a 21 fret neck; mine all are 20 fretters. It appears to me a standard body with a standard pocket was used, and the presence of that last fret is what has pushed the neck forward, with the bridge having to follow to maintain proper intonation. There is no overhang.
Mine arrived today, and I am absolutely amazed! I don't know how anyone can produce a bass like this and sell it at retail for $54.95 shipped. China is scary...
I order this for sh*ts and giggles, and expected it to be junk. It’s far from it! So many things about this bass are impressive:
I order this for sh*ts and giggles, and expected it to be junk. It’s far from it! So many things about this bass are impressive:
- One piece basswood body with nice grain that is lightweight and quite resonant
- Perfectly acceptable finish
- Neck is decent looking flat-sawn maple and it is dead straight (checked with slotted straight edge)
- Nice dark rosewood fretboard with good fretwork (very level with nicely finished fret ends) and slightly rolled edges!
- Put a strobe on it straight out of the box and every string was intonated within 1-3 cents
- Truss rod turns smoothly and I was easily able to set it up with just slight relief and set the action at about 1.7mm with no buzzing
- Pickup (which I expected would be crap) actually sounds very good.
- 6lbs 4ozs!
I have basically the same experience, other than my truss rod issue. I also bought the sunburst color. I don't have a scale to weigh mine on, so I don't know how heavy it but it is lighter than most.
Looks great, @Cutter8. Glad you got a good one.
All us older guys are envious of the quality even low-priced instruments today exhibit. We had to learn on “egg slicers”. Sucked to be us back then.
All us older guys are envious of the quality even low-priced instruments today exhibit. We had to learn on “egg slicers”. Sucked to be us back then.
Per the Glarry website, they say the P-bass weighs 3050 grams (6 lb 11 9/16 oz). The J-bass is said to be 3550 grams (7 lb 13 3/16 oz).
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Yes, that is exactly my point!
There is no overhang
if there’s an overhang then they would be fine but there isn’t one so that’s why it’s too far away from the body; too neck heavy and why the bridge’s ‘following’ the neck
The electrics, hardware & frets are all great, however
