I would love a number. I have a early 70's v4 and a v4-b ri
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Ampeg V4 Club
- Thread starter birdman14
- Start date
Well, of course there is an Ampeg V4 club. Here's mine, may I join?
This is a 1976-79 Magnavox-era V4 with original designation set of tubes, from J&J. It is voiced for guitar but just this week I found out how to effectively use it for bass: An EHX Bass Metaphors preamp/DI pedal into the effects return jack. I got a great Ampeg sound at band rehearsal, through a 1x15" cabinet.
Any suggestions for a rack preamp to use with this, I'd like to make the installation more fixed-like than with a box on the floor to be kicked at.
This is a 1976-79 Magnavox-era V4 with original designation set of tubes, from J&J. It is voiced for guitar but just this week I found out how to effectively use it for bass: An EHX Bass Metaphors preamp/DI pedal into the effects return jack. I got a great Ampeg sound at band rehearsal, through a 1x15" cabinet.
Any suggestions for a rack preamp to use with this, I'd like to make the installation more fixed-like than with a box on the floor to be kicked at.
Thanks for the number. It goes on my profile. It's actually good to have a record of the gear going in and out, there.
Thanks for the nice welcome, gsgbass.
I am trying out a Darkglass "Vintage Deluxe" in front of the V4 but have yet to find a way to push adequate level of the uneffected signal to the amp. Next, I will try to make a XLR/6.3 mm plug cable to push the direct out (line level) into the loop return.
EDIT: I made the cable but experienced a very curious thing: I had a slightly noisy guitar cord that I had stashed away. It is a Zeck (Germany) silicone-sheathed cable. Apparently, there is no outer protection against the copper shield/ground lead, so over time (some 20 years) the copper had oxidized. It crumbled on touch, but I was able to solder it anyway. Now, the "slightly noisy" cable had turned into an unusable noise machine!!
I am trying out a Darkglass "Vintage Deluxe" in front of the V4 but have yet to find a way to push adequate level of the uneffected signal to the amp. Next, I will try to make a XLR/6.3 mm plug cable to push the direct out (line level) into the loop return.
EDIT: I made the cable but experienced a very curious thing: I had a slightly noisy guitar cord that I had stashed away. It is a Zeck (Germany) silicone-sheathed cable. Apparently, there is no outer protection against the copper shield/ground lead, so over time (some 20 years) the copper had oxidized. It crumbled on touch, but I was able to solder it anyway. Now, the "slightly noisy" cable had turned into an unusable noise machine!!
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One more update. We had band practice yesterday. I picked up an unbalanced mic cable for 5 € when I returned the Darkglass pedal to the shop. So, I plugged in the EHX Bass Metaphors with that cable and got a line level signal into the effects return ("Power Amp In" jack). That gave me so much signal that before I could adjust it properly, something blew inside the amp and it went dead quiet. It's probably the HV fuse if there is one, need to check the schematics. It's not the power tubes since they looked healthy.
Fortunately there was a house amp in the space I could use. I already ordered the Tech21 RBI rackmount pre to replace the Darkglass but apparently the Bass Metaphors could also have worked very well, if I were careful with the signal level going in.
Actually, what is tempting, is to get a 1-space rackmount PA amplifier to complete the rack with the preamp. I already have a Korg rack tuner, so that would be a unified entity, right there.
Fortunately there was a house amp in the space I could use. I already ordered the Tech21 RBI rackmount pre to replace the Darkglass but apparently the Bass Metaphors could also have worked very well, if I were careful with the signal level going in.
Actually, what is tempting, is to get a 1-space rackmount PA amplifier to complete the rack with the preamp. I already have a Korg rack tuner, so that would be a unified entity, right there.
Yeah, my V4 is on the repair shelf for teh time being (that is, until I get my electronics work station up and running).
I ordered an ART SLA 2 F one-unit rack PA amp to power the two 8-ohm cabs I have. Should suffice for any situation, once I get the Tech 21 pre as well. I have a a 2x10 Laney cab with 600 W power handling that had its head blown, so I can fit in the 3 rack space the pre, the PA amp, and a rack tuner. Maybe I will post a thread in the "Amplifiers" forum once it's done.
I ordered an ART SLA 2 F one-unit rack PA amp to power the two 8-ohm cabs I have. Should suffice for any situation, once I get the Tech 21 pre as well. I have a a 2x10 Laney cab with 600 W power handling that had its head blown, so I can fit in the 3 rack space the pre, the PA amp, and a rack tuner. Maybe I will post a thread in the "Amplifiers" forum once it's done.
I decided to take a look at the Ampeg V4 since it had quit on me. I made sure I had some fuses available... Okay, the amp doesn't have ordinary fuses - they seem like heat fuses that come back on once the amp has cooled. Interestingly, the chassis is mounted from the sides by auxiliary plates that hold the chassis on rubber pads, reduced vibration is engineered in.
One of the "heat fuses" is on the printed circuit board at the lower left, and the other on the power section turret board even farther down and to the left.
Once again, "light therapy" has proven its might.
One of the "heat fuses" is on the printed circuit board at the lower left, and the other on the power section turret board even farther down and to the left.
Once again, "light therapy" has proven its might.
Had a wonderful gig tonight. Love playing my reissue and the 112 av cabs
I just picked up a VT22 with factory installed 12" altecs. the innards read from 1970. put it on a current limiter and dead short. replaced the power switch, dead short. going to check the secondary on the p.t. and the diodes in the rectifier, all the electrolytics have drifted and have excessive esr. I guess I'll have to just chase this down the line. can't wait to hear those altecs through the original amp.
I just acquired this V4, gonna go through it, as it has original caps, and it has 3 GE 7027A power tubes, one was broken, don't know the state of the tubes, haven tested them yet, and have not powered it up
They are nice amps. With the metal knobs, that’s an early one. Very nice.
These amps can take a lot of work to bring back, starting with a good cleaning, then inspection of all the solder joints, jack to chassis contacts, grey shielded wire connections, other wire connections, etc. Heat takes a toll on all the solder joins. Check the condition of the isolation washers on the speaker output jacks, inside and outside of the chassis. They have to be there or the amp will hum. Sometimes they are damaged and cause problems.
Many thanks for the info, what's interesting is this amp has a 3 prong, power cord plug, I'm assuming it originally came with a 2 cord plug, as it has the two position polarity switch, so my thoughts are some one has been in this amp, and the GE power tubes, I've got another amp ( Traynor YBA-3 ) hogging space on my bench, so this is next in line, while we're talking V4's are the Fliptops cap kit the go to option, or are there other sources/better choices, kinda don't feel like reading hundreds of pages of posts about the recaping V4's
Hi everyone.
I’ve been playing my V4B RI with a Jack 12 and it’s a great small setup, but I’m missing that sealed cab tone.
I want to keep the V4B/J12 as a small/medium show setup or when there isn’t much stage room and get a 410 for medium/larger stages (all with PA support)
I found that FlipTop.com sells what looks like half of a flatback Ampeg 810.
Would this give me that round full vintage tone I’m after?
I’ve been playing my V4B RI with a Jack 12 and it’s a great small setup, but I’m missing that sealed cab tone.
I want to keep the V4B/J12 as a small/medium show setup or when there isn’t much stage room and get a 410 for medium/larger stages (all with PA support)
I found that FlipTop.com sells what looks like half of a flatback Ampeg 810.
Would this give me that round full vintage tone I’m after?
My metal knob ‘74 has the three prong utility outlet, earlier ones had the two prong. So they come with either. You can still have a polarity circuit and switch with a three pronged cord.
Most people use the CE Distribution cap cans (Invalid Link Removed) in these amps to make them close in performance and look to the originals. If that is what fliptops is using in their kit, you are good. I’ve had bad reports on their own brand of cap cans. No personal experience with them.
I use a different cap, such as a snap-in Nichicon or similar, that requires some customization and a printed circuit board to mount. Not something that most want to get into as it’s a big job.
I think it would really depend on the speakers you chose to put in it. I have not heard of any moderns speakers really nailing the CTS square-magnet speaker sound from the original flatback, though.
I would looking at what Ampeg is currently using, the Legend 10” or possibly Weber 10FH.
Many thanks ..... for the info .... briefly looked at the CE site, and the 40+40+40 cap is not available in a 500 volt rating, looks like a in chassis mod/mount is in order, but just starting to look and acquire parts/sources
Looks like I spoke too soon, They do have that cap can, along with the 100/40
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I have a 70’s flatback 810 with 2005-era USA Ampeg 10s (USA Eminence made, Part # 86-032-01 10324A). They sound really good to my ears with my V4B-RI, but I don’t think they are a match to the originals.
I have heard that the Heritage 810 is as close as anyone has come to the original 810, but the drivers are special order from Ampeg, and it’s almost imposssible to get them unless you already own a Heritage cab.
If you don’t mind “close” then I think your choices listed above are good, and I have had a great experience with 12” Emenince Basslites (USA-made), so the 10” variant might be something to consider too.
An original V4 cab might suit as well, and likely cost less than the FlipTops unloaded cab (that’s what I put the Basslites in and I love it with my V4B). You can generally find them for $300 - $400 or so in OK to Good shape with speakers intact.
