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Double Bass An Ehrlund blog, sort of

#541
Hey Ric,

I am starting to like it better. I went and moved it closer to the f on the e side and things are evening out. I bought the Ehrlund second hand and it is the jack that Gollihur includes with it. I've read it a bunch of times but the experience it taking the cake: to find the sweet spot is a job all on its own and, on top of that, even if you place it back on the same spot, it the putty's form has changed, so will the sound. Wild I tell ya.... I thought I was so close then I moved it 1/4", didn't like the change and moved it back and the sound wasn't the same as it was prior.

Don't get me wrong. I am impressed, but I still can't fathom why the jack seems so junky and it's just a pet peeve. I cut a 121 off another cord and soldered it on and there are no more crackles.
 
#543
Thanks Mark for the offer. I already have it taken care of. I had a 121 on the end of a cord, so I wound up cutting it off it and replaced the one with the that came with the pickup. All is good. This is what I replaced it with:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

These are the mack-daddy of connectors, probably a bit more costly than what you provide for free with the pickup, but a much better product by far and what I personally would expect with a $600 pickup. That is me personally though.

The jack provided with the pickup isn't bad. It is just the way it functions with the 1/4" cords I have here in the studio. The shield connection jiggles ever so slightly when plugged in. Due to the way the tip engages, it doesn't provide any pressure to the sleeve which caused intermittent connection when the tailpiece vibrated on certain notes.

Anyway, thanks again for the offer.
 
#544
Coincidentally, we're coming to the end of the ones like those that we have in stock, so rather than re-ordering them, I just ordered up 100 shiny new Neutrik ones to replace them with for future orders. I'll just retire the ones I have (maybe I can use them at home for something). Thanks for the heads-up - I've done several solder-jobs for folks with these with no issues (that I'm aware of), but I don't want people to be unhappy with what we send them, free or not.

:bassist:
 
#546
Mark Gollihur said:
Coincidentally, we're coming to the end of the ones like those that we have in stock, so rather than re-ordering them, I just ordered up 100 shiny new Neutrik ones to replace them with for future orders. I'll just retire the ones I have (maybe I can use them at home for something). Thanks for the heads-up - I've done several solder-jobs for folks with these with no issues (that I'm aware of), but I don't want people to be unhappy with what we send them, free or not.

:bassist:
Click to expand...

Mark,
Which Neutrix are you using and how are you attaching it to the tailpiece?

Thanks
 
#548
Robin Ruscio said:
I've just determined that my intermittent problems I've been having were due to my original jack as well.

So switchcraft or Neutrix? Which is better? I hate having stuff that breaks again!
Click to expand...

Robin,
If you've ever mounted a Realist to your bass then the Switchcraft will actually insert into the same little plastic pipe clamp Gages uses, and it makes for a very secure, simple, and stable mount. I've been looking through the Neutrix connectors and it looks like the Neutrix NJ3FC6 would be sutable, and as with all Neutrix the connection locks in place. My question to Mark was how he's planning on attaching it to the Tailpiece? I do know that Goran Ehrlund actually installed a Neutrix on a customers EAP when he was selling them himself. The customer then just layed/wedged it inbetween the tailpiece and the bass, which dosen't really sound like a stable installation. The Neutrix is a very well made jack.

Ric
 
#549
Ric Vice said:
Robin,
If you've ever mounted a Realist to your bass then the Switchcraft will actually insert into the same little plastic pipe clamp Gages uses and it makes for a very secure, simple, and stable mount. I've been looking through the Neutrix connectors and it looks like the Neutrix NJ3FC6 would be sutable, and as with all Neutrix the connection locks in place. My question to Mark was how he's planning on attaching it to the Tailpiece? I do know that Goran Ehrlund actually installed a Neutrix on a customers EAP when he was selling them himself. The Neutrix is a very well made jack.

Ric
Click to expand...


Thanks. I emailed Mark about it to see if they had mounting kit. If not I'll get the switchcraft.

I should clarify, the jack I have is the Gollihur jack, not the Ehrulnd. I didnt realize that until i was looking at the pics again, as I bought mine used.

BTW, just got my Big E 45 cab from Mike Arnopol. Sounds great with my puma and the Ehrlund!
 
#550
I have probably said this before, but I have had great luck using the Ehrlund exactly as it comes from the manufacturer. I simply roll up the meter long cable, and then mount the preamp on my bow quiver. The wire doesn't touch the top this way, if I have it nice and tightly rolled. I then also have kept my EAP in factory condition, which is good in case I need to use the warranty or sell it someday (the latter is not likely!) I actually bought the above recommended switchcraft jack, but doubt my skills too much to install it myself, and was too cheap to pay for it, and after many gigs with the factory version, have just decided to leave it along. All the original equipment used by Ehrlund seems pretty high quality and durable so I am content.
 
#551
Robin Ruscio said:
I've just determined that my intermittent problems I've been having were due to my original jack as well.

So switchcraft or Neutrix? Which is better? I hate having stuff that breaks again!
Click to expand...

Switchcraft. Works very well and fits into the Gollihur mounting doo-hickey and other mounting sleeves, as Ric mentioned.
 
#555
Vunz said:
Here is a pic of my Ehrlund with a Neutrik locking connector (provided by Jonas from Kontrabassatelier.de):
Invalid Link Removed

And this is how my preamp is mounted to my bow quiver:
Invalid Link Removed

Cheers,
Vincent
Click to expand...


Does the preamp come into contact with the front of your bass when you put it in its case, or knock against the front when you move the bass?
 
#556
geoffbassist said:
Does the preamp come into contact with the front of your bass when you put it in its case, or knock against the front when you move the bass?
Click to expand...

I put a towel between the quiver and the top when the bass is in the bag, but the cable between the pickup and the preamp acts as a kind of a spring, pushing the quiver away from the top. I do need to be careful no to move excessively while playing, though, or else a knock will be heard (and amplified very naturally and transparently by the pickup ;-)

Cheers,
Vincent
 
#559
Ric Vice said:
Mark,
Which Neutrix are you using and how are you attaching it to the tailpiece?
Thanks
Click to expand...

It's their "Rean" line - not a "premium" $10 piece of kit, but still nice and solid - and clearly an upgrade from our previous ones. We include a black plastic nut, holder, washer and bolt to simply push through one of the holes on the tailpiece, so you don't have to remove any strings to attach it.
 
#560
Ric Vice said:
Hey Robin,
When you get it, would you be kind enough to share how it's mounted and the Neutrix Part No., It would be a great help.

Ric
Click to expand...

The mounting kit is as shown below; I'm currently using the same plastic bits to mount the Realist LifeLine jack on my own bass (using the wire tie that came with the Realist, since it's a size bigger and fits the jack better).

mounting.jpg
 

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