Great job man. It's really starting to look genuine. Forgive me if I've missed something, how did you manage to age the poly finish on the body so nicely ?
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and it starts...modding the Squier 60's CV P
- Thread starter your idol
- Start date
i actually aged the body and the guard very much the same way for the most part...
the guard i hit with an ultra thin coat of the amber tint neck spray so that it dries almost instantly. then take 1200+ grit sandpaper and take it down til it almost isnt even ther aroun the edges . i got the technique from www.relicdeluxe.com and it was perfect. its just spary sand repeat a couple times until it gets a very light and smooth natural buildup.
the body was ALOT mor effort!
for any worn through spots i sanded the body just thin enough that you could see tan peeking through the finish. and i sanded the belly contour until it started to become whiter than the rest. i used a red scotch brite (find at any auto parts store)and then gently thinned out the rest of the body paint surface across. using a red scotch brite pad takes forever to do this but its alot easier to control how much wear you lay down and saves you from having a beltsander beauty queen. when you use a red scotch it will start putting a pinkish hue to your pain so stop every so often and wash the entire surface, i just used dove dishwashing soap with bleach or some crap to get the pink out of the paints pores.at this point the bass should be matte finish.
once i got the paint all over to a thin candy shell i used a low speed buffer attachment on a drill and some auto rubbing compound and brought back a "natural" shine to it. over the spots i purposely rub through til tan was peeking out i ran the drill buffer on HIGH crreating a natural fabric style rub through the pain to expose wood . this is not only the most natural way to show rub wear(after all it is rubbing and basically non abrasive) but it alost polishes the exposed wood which appears natural.
once you have the basic shine coming back and your scratches from the scotch brite disappear the buffing tool will have given you a shine and a natural swirling pattern of fine scratches...now the LABOR OF LOVE begins.
Hand Polishing is excruciating but really makes a different in the surface (eventually
) i bought 10 flannel rags and while sitting watching tv or on tb just polished everything for HOURS over the course of DAYS body edges and horns ect will really bennefit the most from this treatment becuase its rubbing the finish polishing and wearing the pain in a natural way like time and use would bringing a slightly lighter hue to the edges and an incredible real shine to them. dents and dings are to ones own taste . i went mild but i did reference alot of wear and tear on original bodies and took it easy as not to over do it and where i did get heavier were points of natural abuse and i mimiced the marks carefully..not just beat it on the floor. i have dents around my input jack made from my plug itself ..everything served a purpose to making very different marks. i filled any exposed wood chips with baby blue nail polis (to make it look like i kept up with trying to cover the first couple dings and the rest with light wood stain. let it dry and buffed it out (it looks like concentrated dirt DEAD ON so those dings looked like i just said eff it to upkeep.
hope this helps
Wow! Looks amazing. Very tasteful and authentic looking.
Love the finger-wear marks on the fretboard - You don't see that too often on relics - most people just do the body and hardware and are done with it. I can tell you've put a LOT of time and effort into this project.
Very inspiring...
btw, is that a pretty lightweight bass?
Love the finger-wear marks on the fretboard - You don't see that too often on relics - most people just do the body and hardware and are done with it. I can tell you've put a LOT of time and effort into this project.
Very inspiring...
btw, is that a pretty lightweight bass?
i actually aged the body and the guard very much the same way for the most part...
the guard i hit with an ultra thin coat of the amber tint neck spray so that it dries almost instantly. then take 1200+ grit sandpaper and take it down til it almost isnt even ther aroun the edges . i got the technique from www.relicdeluxe.com and it was perfect. its just spary sand repeat a couple times until it gets a very light and smooth natural buildup.
the body was ALOT mor effort!
for any worn through spots i sanded the body just thin enough that you could see tan peeking through the finish. and i sanded the belly contour until it started to become whiter than the rest. i used a red scotch brite (find at any auto parts store)and then gently thinned out the rest of the body paint surface across. using a red scotch brite pad takes forever to do this but its alot easier to control how much wear you lay down and saves you from having a beltsander beauty queen. when you use a red scotch it will start putting a pinkish hue to your pain so stop every so often and wash the entire surface, i just used dove dishwashing soap with bleach or some crap to get the pink out of the paints pores.at this point the bass should be matte finish.
once i got the paint all over to a thin candy shell i used a low speed buffer attachment on a drill and some auto rubbing compound and brought back a "natural" shine to it. over the spots i purposely rub through til tan was peeking out i ran the drill buffer on HIGH crreating a natural fabric style rub through the pain to expose wood . this is not only the most natural way to show rub wear(after all it is rubbing and basically non abrasive) but it alost polishes the exposed wood which appears natural.
once you have the basic shine coming back and your scratches from the scotch brite disappear the buffing tool will have given you a shine and a natural swirling pattern of fine scratches...now the LABOR OF LOVE begins.
Hand Polishing is excruciating but really makes a different in the surface (eventually
dents and dings are to ones own taste . i went mild but i did reference alot of wear and tear on original bodies and took it easy as not to over do it and where i did get heavier were points of natural abuse and i mimiced the marks carefully..not just beat it on the floor. i have dents around my input jack made from my plug itself ..everything served a purpose to making very different marks. i filled any exposed wood chips with baby blue nail polis (to make it look like i kept up with trying to cover the first couple dings and the rest with light wood stain. let it dry and buffed it out (it looks like concentrated dirt DEAD ON so those dings looked like i just said eff it to upkeep.
hope this helps
wow , thanks for all the tips sounds like alot of work but its paying off
Thank you so much for the info extended info and link. Lots of useful tips on that site. BTW, was there actually a sonic blue finish available in the 70's ?
the original neck and hardware was average heavy 8.5-10 lbs ish so im pretty confident that i will be shaving almost a pound off. it should be about an 8 pounder when im done i figure
no prob.its very hard but im loving this experience. if you have and questions or anyone else im just a pm/email away.wow , thanks for all the tips sounds like alot of work but its paying off
Youre ALWAYS welcome to pop by. ill also be bringing it to any spring summer time GTGs in the big O!
pretty sure it was. we have a picture of one in the thread
so i aged the hardware last night. used feric chloride and it worked really well.as soon as i get the finish checking done on the headstock ill add the tuners and the neck will be finished then hopefully attaching the neck fully this weekend
TSIWWP
soon i promise. i wanna put all of the hardware on the bass before i show it off so it gives off contrast.. ill probably put it all on sunday night after i get my new tattoo , til then im preoccupied with ink
ill try not to disappoint
Get this - I promised myself i would stop buying , selling and trading basses. Well i owned a 60's CV jazz and 50's P sold them both awhile back. I have been following this thread and was just amazed at how sweet this bass is looking, i go into my local guitar center to exchange a monster cable , see a squier 60's CV , talk to a salesman and next thing i know i am walking at the door with it haha , i blame you !
i will post a pic for proof when i get my camera back.
He sold it to me for 245$ how could i say no
i will post a pic for proof when i get my camera back.
He sold it to me for 245$ how could i say no
$245 IS AWESOME!!! glad to inspire. you know when i first played it i knew it was a cool bass but i knew there was a hidden soul inside of it to be one of the great ones if i was willing to chip and chisel my way into it. no matter how you approach it,untouched or super modded, this thing is a killer and one of the few factory basses out there that has actual personality to it...congrats!
ok so i quit slacking just long enough to get the hardware in today now that it has settled in from the etching process. next step is to drill the neck and mount it sting it up and put the string tree on.
Thanks man! they are fine basses , due to some budgeting for school i had to choose only 1 bass , this was it
yours is looking great btw
ANYONE LOOKING FOR A CV 60's? MF has one on sale do to cosmetic damage for 280$ combine that with a coupon maybe and your getting agreat bass for low $ http://bass-guitars.musiciansfriend...IC-VIBE-Precision-60s-Bass-Guitar-?sku=519571
, but a fitting pic
