A mechanic would employ a large pry bar, to try and pry the mounts apart to find the culprit.
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Anyone here into old cars?
- Thread starter 7dollarbologna
- Start date
That would be the next step. But then, a mechanic would raise the car with a hoist, which makes the poking prodding and prying a whole lot easier. It is, however, possible to damage certain types of engine/transmission mounts if not careful.
I've done it from the top side routinely and quickly. There is no way you can break a good motor mount with a prybar - not a long prybar, I have sets of different lengths.
A lot of cars offer a good shot at the engine mounts from above, but not many cars give the same access to the transmission mount. I have a similar car and it's not practical (if even possible) to access the transmission mount from under the hood. Based on blastoff99's description I was more focused on some of the likely suspects located underneath the car.
Surely you know SOMEONE who can break just about anything with a sturdy prybar--I know a few. And it is possible to damage the elastomeric element found in some mounts by jamming a prybar etc. down into it.
Anyway, we'll see what blastoff discovers should he follow-up with us.
I'm not sure about your car, but we learned a lesson when we changed the Transmission Mounts in my dad's Beetle. We were having the hardest time getting the front mount in until we realized that the wheels have to be off the ground. We had our car on ramps so we were fighting the weight of the car. As soon as we jacked it up everything was suspended and could move around.
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I saw this video today. Supposedly, these reproductions are so close to the real thing that the differences are measured in millimeters.
I'm very into classic muscle cars, It started off with restoring and building an 81 vette with my dad. We rebuilt the 350 with a comp cam, dished Pistons and other supporting mods, had the 700r4 rebuilt, put a 323 posi in it and redid the body and interior. Then I got my first car which is an 86 Pontiac trans am that I've been restoring, cut out all the rot and patched, put a new transmission in, and fixed a bunch of stuff the previous owner jacked up. Now my dad bought back his 67 sport satellite which has a highly built 440 with a fuel cell in the trunk. The whole drive train was out of a 69 coronet rt
Zombie threading here.
Me and my dad uncovered his 912 this weekend to see what we gots. As requested, here's some photos. Everything is solid. It's got 64,674mi and was last on the road in 1979. Sorry for the blurry cell phone photos, but it was all I had.
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Jeez, that brings back memories. My first car, a VW bug, was that very color. The first thing I would do is give it a good washing to see what you have. Is there any rust? Also, nice that it has very low mileage.
Yeah, it's a cool color. It's totally solid underneath and on the body. We're going to roll it out this week and have it flatbedded over to his house. The engine and transmission are out of it, but the half-shaft axles are hanging off the wheel hubs. I'm scratching my head a little trying to decide the best way to deal with that so we can roll it. I'm thinking it might be best to bungee cord them together.
Just curious - are those the Löbro axles or the Nadella? Should have been Löbro by '68...
I wouldn't try to attach them to each other. If you're just rolling in the driveway and onto a flatbed, probably stiff wire (e.g. coat hanger) attached to the upper shock mount would support them fine. I would advise against pulling the stub axles with any weight on the hubs - can damage the bearings.
I had an early (1965) 912, and I still have a longhood 911...
Nice!
It's got Nadellas. It's a '66. I was wrong about it being a '68.
Yeah, I just saw a youtube video that showed the hub bearings coming apart if you move a car without the half shafts. Seems like converting to Lobros is the thing to do. Nadellas are selling for $1500 each and we're pretty sure we have a bad one.
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My thought is this: TAKE NO ACTION until you connect with a local Porsche club and get one of their knowledgeable members to come over and coach you on how to move it. You have a valuable car there, so don't mess it up. A good Porsche guy can also help you with restoration plans.
I already left a couple voicemails with some local people to talk it over. My dad has finally decided to have local pro rebuild the engine. Our guy use to own the repair department at the local VW/Porsche dealer from the 70's to the 00's. He helped us out a bunch when we rebuilt my dad's Beetle last year. My dad realized it's kind of a rare car and figured it'll be worthwhile to have a top notch guy do all engine work. That'll free us up to concentrate on the break system, fuel system, electrical, suspension and everything else that hasn't been used for 36 years. But we have no shortage of PCA people who really know their stuff.
Be ready for some sticker shock. Proper rebuild on a Type 616 can cost almost as much as a 911. The last (real) 912 was MY 1969. You might want to be reaching out to guys in the 356 Registry - the 616 is basically the 356SC engine. For some reason I thought the car was in Hawaii... The guys at Competition Engineering Invalid Link Removed used to be the go-to place for machine work. My personal recommendation for P&C's is LN Engineering Nickies Invalid Link Removed.
Brakes is nothing unusual - your standard solid rotors front & back. Eric Shea at PMB Performance is the guy there Shop PMB - Catalog for caliper refurbishment.
A big-ish issue will be the front struts. The earliest used a fairly bizarre type with a bolt-on steering arm. Those, the weird ball joints, and the A-Arms have been NLA for a long time. But it was a popular upgrade In The Day to use Koni or Bilstein struts so - you might luck out.
Before investing a bunch of money and effort, have the torsion tube checked out. It is *very* common for those to be rusted from the inside-out even when they look perfect on the outside.
At some point you will need to decide your goals for the car. It can easily take 6 figures for a national-level Concours restoration. Just "solid driver-level" can hit mid-5.
Thanks for the info. I appreciate it. We literally already have (hopefully) all the engine parts. Jugs, pistons, rods, push rods, crank shaft, heads, carbs that my dad bought new in the early 2000s but never put together. He just wants to pay our guy to do the assembly. We're probably going to redo the entire break system from the ground up. We'll definitely check out bother front and rear suspension. But the first thing is really just to get it to my dad's house where we can really get climb in, under and around it so we can figure out our plan. It's probably going to be a multi-year restoration but I'm going to try to do most of the heavy lifting while I'm here this month.
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You are very lucky to have most of the engine parts. The cost of Porsche parts is coronary-inducing. And it's great to hear that you have PCA contacts - those will be extremely helpful.
And BTW - hopefully they're "brakes", not "breaks". If the brake is broke, you have a problem.
And BTW - hopefully they're "brakes", not "breaks". If the brake is broke, you have a problem.
Haha! Yeah, that was a typo. Our engine guy owns a car on the Formula V car circuit. He's too old to race it himself but he does all the work.
