I bought an ASB180 fretless conversion earlier this year. Somebody had done quite a good job.
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Artcore Club
- Thread starter elroyjetsn
- Start date
Not that I’ve seen here on TB.
However, Eastwood did make an unlined fretless version of their Classic IV which is extremely hard to find.
I found an AGB-100C case for my AGB-140 from West Music; Welcome to West Music | Play Now, Play For Life! gave me a decent price
I have an AGB200. I don't pick it up as much as a couple of my other basses. I think 2 reasons.
1 - the output is quite a bit lower than my other basses. I think I could fix that with a pre-amp,
and the real question I am asking,
2 - the neck dive. The strap pin is on the back of the body at about the 17th fret. Is there any reason why I could not move the pin to the 15th fret (where I have indicated with the blue arrow in the photo)?
Would that help enough?
Is there danger/caution in doing that?
Is there some reason I can't think of why this would be a dumb idea?
Since there is a step from the back of the neck to the back of the body, I would plan to 3D print a shim to make that all flush so the strap would not hang up on the transition.
1 - the output is quite a bit lower than my other basses. I think I could fix that with a pre-amp,
and the real question I am asking,
2 - the neck dive. The strap pin is on the back of the body at about the 17th fret. Is there any reason why I could not move the pin to the 15th fret (where I have indicated with the blue arrow in the photo)?
Would that help enough?
Is there danger/caution in doing that?
Is there some reason I can't think of why this would be a dumb idea?
Since there is a step from the back of the neck to the back of the body, I would plan to 3D print a shim to make that all flush so the strap would not hang up on the transition.
I'll defer to those who've moved the strap post, as I've not needed to, using a wider, grippier strap.
I've used a number of pedal preamps with my AGB200s. I like the DCX Bass quite a lot.
With rhe DCX, as you get bass and treble boost and cut, as well as overdrive in whatever amount. The OD sounds great with the AGB.
I've used a number of pedal preamps with my AGB200s. I like the DCX Bass quite a lot.
With rhe DCX, as you get bass and treble boost and cut, as well as overdrive in whatever amount. The OD sounds great with the AGB.
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Thanks Michael. I have started using a Sushi Neptunium to give it a bit more oomph into my Rumble 40 at the house.
I do also have an MXR M81 on the board in my study. Not sure if I would NEED another preamp, but if there is one out there that can do different things than what I have........
As Tina Turner once sang "What's NEED got to do, got to do with it?!?"
That DCX looks interesting. I see they have a BassRig as well.
The Ag Tone Hammer might be something to look at since it is on Alejandra Villarreal's board.
Maybe a Genzler Magellan pre-amp could be a thing.
Looks to be many options.
I also did a little experiment to see if moving the pin makes any difference. I used a zip tie at the 15th fret to see if it hangs better. When I got it aligned with the proposed new pin location, there was a little reduction in the neck dive, but is it enough to make the change? I don't know. I think there was enough instability in my experimental setup to skew the results enough to make me curious what the actual effect might be.
I do also have an MXR M81 on the board in my study. Not sure if I would NEED another preamp, but if there is one out there that can do different things than what I have........
As Tina Turner once sang "What's NEED got to do, got to do with it?!?"
That DCX looks interesting. I see they have a BassRig as well.
The Ag Tone Hammer might be something to look at since it is on Alejandra Villarreal's board.
Maybe a Genzler Magellan pre-amp could be a thing.
Looks to be many options.
I also did a little experiment to see if moving the pin makes any difference. I used a zip tie at the 15th fret to see if it hangs better. When I got it aligned with the proposed new pin location, there was a little reduction in the neck dive, but is it enough to make the change? I don't know. I think there was enough instability in my experimental setup to skew the results enough to make me curious what the actual effect might be.
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Yeah, Yeah, I know, I'm an enabler. But gosh darn it this is a great deal with a HSC!!!!!
AFB200 in Burst
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
AFB200 in Burst
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
I checked, and it's still available! Tempting. I like my transparent black, but I really like that burst.
I would contact the people here. They supposedly specialize in replacing with OEM
Guitar Pickup Selector Toggle Switches
Guitar Pickup Selector Toggle Switches, nuts, washers, and switch tips. Right-angle, straight, open-frame, box-style, Switchcraft, MEC, EMG, etc.
guitarrepairparts.com
I'd also use this as a guide to get the correct part number.
You want the right part, the correct part, not the close enough part.
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Thanks! Very helpfulI would contact the people here. They supposedly specialize in replacing with OEM
Guitar Pickup Selector Toggle Switches
Guitar Pickup Selector Toggle Switches, nuts, washers, and switch tips. Right-angle, straight, open-frame, box-style, Switchcraft, MEC, EMG, etc.
I'd also use this as a guide to get the correct part number.
You want the right part, the correct part, not the close enough part.
I’m really having fun playing my AFB 200 these days. I’m using medium scale/ light gauge GHS Precision Flats. I have no amp onstage and only use a little compression and eq straight into the PA and monitors.
Great playing, and great tone, @hensonbass . That was terrific. Thanks for posting it.
Great tone playing at the end of the neck. If more peeps did that like you there would be a lot less complaining not just about this bass but all hollow/semi-hollow basses in general.
I found this thread years ago and procrastinated on doing the pot swap.
It was my least favorite bass guitar and I ended up giving it to one of my kids who wanted to play bass for that reason.
I found out that Bartolini makes a Precision pickup in that size housing a couple weeks ago (M34P) and decided to go for it; my main philosophy being that if I was going to go through the effort of pulling everything apart, I might as well get fancy.
I bought two CTS 500k audio taper pots from guitar electronics. My thoughts originally were that Barts are known for being “warm” sounding, so maybe those pot values would yield some more “articulation”. I ordered the long shaft versions and decided to try their variable treble bleed circuit for the volume pot. I also got a .47uF Orange Drop tone cap and I had a Pure Tone 1/4 jack in a drawer.
I used the “modern precision bass” version for the wiring scheme.
Wired everything up yesterday using some rubber tubing from my fish tank compressor to help feed the pots back through (which worked great). I did have to drill out the existing holes to fit the new pots using a step-bit. I topped the pots with some maroon oversized vintage looking knobs I found on Tube Depot.
The good: Bartolini’s M34P does a fantastic imitation of a Precision pickup. The sound is very full range. I could always get a tubby tone plucking up by the neck (like on any bass), but now the lows and low mids really shine there. Anchoring on the pickup itself also yields a much more full range sound.
The output is improved but not necessarily by a large amount. Having only my other basses to compare it to, I’d say the output is on a par with my Nordstrand Big Singles but nowhere near my DiMarzio DP-122 or G&L SB-100 pickups.
The bad: Too much treble with the tone knob turned up anywhere past about 25-40%. Part of this might be the Rotosounds my kid put on the bass, so I ordered a set of DR Nickel Lo-Beams to experiment. I know Barts aren’t known for being bright, but there’s too much sizzle for my tastes with the tone control wide open.
The ugly: what I didn’t think about too deeply when rewiring everything was shielding. I used some of the previously existing wiring and shielded the pickup cavity while I had it apart, but I did use some other standard wiring when building the circuit and I have some ground hum when not touching the bridge/strings.
I partially wonder if that’s why Ibanez used a low impedance pickup with those pot values originally and can’t remember if it had any ground hum before.
I’m sure I could get some shielded wiring and redo everything, but I’m not super motivated to go through fishing all the parts through the f-holes again anytime soon.
Side note: I bought a fleabay Chinese Precision neck for one of my builds because I wanted the rosewood with “mother-of-toilet-seat” block inlays in a Precision profile and it was $80. The “rosewood” always looked strange to me.
It’s exactly the same wood used on the neck of my AGB-140. After a little research, I think it’s generically referred to as “Blackwood” and I wouldn’t be surprised if that neck was built in the same region of China that these Artcore basses were.
Anyway, here’s a picture of my beat up (thanks kid!) AGB-140 with the Bartolini pickup and new knobs. I may or may not add some hot rod pinstripe decals to it later.
It was my least favorite bass guitar and I ended up giving it to one of my kids who wanted to play bass for that reason.
I found out that Bartolini makes a Precision pickup in that size housing a couple weeks ago (M34P) and decided to go for it; my main philosophy being that if I was going to go through the effort of pulling everything apart, I might as well get fancy.
I bought two CTS 500k audio taper pots from guitar electronics. My thoughts originally were that Barts are known for being “warm” sounding, so maybe those pot values would yield some more “articulation”. I ordered the long shaft versions and decided to try their variable treble bleed circuit for the volume pot. I also got a .47uF Orange Drop tone cap and I had a Pure Tone 1/4 jack in a drawer.
I used the “modern precision bass” version for the wiring scheme.
Wired everything up yesterday using some rubber tubing from my fish tank compressor to help feed the pots back through (which worked great). I did have to drill out the existing holes to fit the new pots using a step-bit. I topped the pots with some maroon oversized vintage looking knobs I found on Tube Depot.
The good: Bartolini’s M34P does a fantastic imitation of a Precision pickup. The sound is very full range. I could always get a tubby tone plucking up by the neck (like on any bass), but now the lows and low mids really shine there. Anchoring on the pickup itself also yields a much more full range sound.
The output is improved but not necessarily by a large amount. Having only my other basses to compare it to, I’d say the output is on a par with my Nordstrand Big Singles but nowhere near my DiMarzio DP-122 or G&L SB-100 pickups.
The bad: Too much treble with the tone knob turned up anywhere past about 25-40%. Part of this might be the Rotosounds my kid put on the bass, so I ordered a set of DR Nickel Lo-Beams to experiment. I know Barts aren’t known for being bright, but there’s too much sizzle for my tastes with the tone control wide open.
The ugly: what I didn’t think about too deeply when rewiring everything was shielding. I used some of the previously existing wiring and shielded the pickup cavity while I had it apart, but I did use some other standard wiring when building the circuit and I have some ground hum when not touching the bridge/strings.
I partially wonder if that’s why Ibanez used a low impedance pickup with those pot values originally and can’t remember if it had any ground hum before.
I’m sure I could get some shielded wiring and redo everything, but I’m not super motivated to go through fishing all the parts through the f-holes again anytime soon.
Side note: I bought a fleabay Chinese Precision neck for one of my builds because I wanted the rosewood with “mother-of-toilet-seat” block inlays in a Precision profile and it was $80. The “rosewood” always looked strange to me.
It’s exactly the same wood used on the neck of my AGB-140. After a little research, I think it’s generically referred to as “Blackwood” and I wouldn’t be surprised if that neck was built in the same region of China that these Artcore basses were.
Anyway, here’s a picture of my beat up (thanks kid!) AGB-140 with the Bartolini pickup and new knobs. I may or may not add some hot rod pinstripe decals to it later.
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Great! Thanks for sharing!
Your bass was built by Samick.
I have the same bass with black tapes (can't recall brand). I always enjoy playing it, though with the tone control it has it is a bit of a one trick pony.
Not sure if you ever saw this thread: Artcore Tone Problem Solved
I had seen it, but again, I procrastinated.
When I looked a couple weeks ago, the .25k pots abounded but the .50k pots that were recommended seemed hard to find.
That combined with wanting more of a P-bass sound sort of cemented the deal for me in my mind.
I can’t wait for the new strings to show up and hear if they help balance the sound out a bit.
I should probably add that the sound I was getting was with all of the tone controls on my practice amp set flat. I can dial the treble down a bit and boost the bass a hair to make everything sound the way that I want with the tone control at about 50%, but I’ve always been of the opinion that a great bass should sound great before it gets seasoned by any EQ curve.
Made this Les Paul style pickguard today with a blank sheet from StewMac, a brass picture hanger I repurposed for the mount, and some Velcro.
I also ordered some cream colored block inlay vinyl decals to compliment it and I just strung it up with a set of Nickel DR Lo-Beams.
Already these strings seem to have a better response with the Bartolini M34P than the Rotos it previously had. I think that once they mellow out, they’ll be exactly what I was looking for.
What I’d really like to figure out next is a decent thumb rest between the pickup and the neck that will work with the contoured body.
I also ordered some cream colored block inlay vinyl decals to compliment it and I just strung it up with a set of Nickel DR Lo-Beams.
Already these strings seem to have a better response with the Bartolini M34P than the Rotos it previously had. I think that once they mellow out, they’ll be exactly what I was looking for.
What I’d really like to figure out next is a decent thumb rest between the pickup and the neck that will work with the contoured body.
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Looks good! That color & pattern seems to work well with the binding.
I wouldn't put a thumb rest on it. You don't have a thumb rest between the end of your neck and the pickups on your Precision. Not sure what'll it do for you besides ruin the look. Just my humble opinion.
While I totally agree with you about a thumb rest of some sort ruining the look, what I’ve found after reacquainting myself with this bass is that my favorite tones come from plucking just in front of where the pickup is located; almost directly above the front edge.
I always anchor my thumb, so it feels awkward trying to stretch from the neck to get there, and anchoring on the pickup itself puts my digits too far back towards the bridge where it’s a thinner sound. Not a bad sound, just not as full or tubby sounding as further up.
I found a black stick on thumb rest on Reverb last night that I’m going to try out. It seems small and unobtrusive. Hopefully it puts me where I want to be.
