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I think it would work fine for PA; basically it's a little PA cab that's optimized for bass guitar. One possible problem is that it doesn't have a tophat on the bottom of the enclosure for pole mounting, and installing a tophat would be complicated because the bottom of the cabinet is occupied by the crossover. I'd have to split the crossover onto two boards and mount them on the sides, which can be done, I suppose - but my point is, installing a tophat is more complex than it would seem at first glance.
Home audio style inputs can be installed as an option, in addition to the Speakeron/quarter inch jacks. I use recorded music in the crossover design phase, and the cab is voiced a little bit brighter than most high-end home audio speakers. The reason is, more high frequency energy is lost to various causes in a prosound setting. In a home audio setting, I would recommend severe toe-in such that the axes criss-cross in front of the normal listening position. This helps with the brightness and results in good soundstaging and good tonal balance across a wide area.
Here's a shot of some of my home audio speakers that actually have the recommended 45 degrees of toe-in built into the design:
http://gallery.audioasylum.com/cgi/wi.mpl?u=2112&f=LoneStar2010.jpg&w=900&h=595
I'd be curious how other amplified instruments sound through the Thunderchild in a band practice setting, just in case there are other applications.
The 2x12 that's in the pipeline will perform better for PA in many settings, but it will be a lot heavier and more expensive. However JimmyM's intention to use it for vocals not only caused me to rework its crossover, but also influenced the crossover design of the Thunderchild. As it now stands Thunderchild probably has better midrange clarity than the cab JimmyM beta-tested, but the production version of the 2x12 will outperform Thunderchild in that regard.
I think it would work fine for PA; basically it's a little PA cab that's optimized for bass guitar. One possible problem is that it doesn't have a tophat on the bottom of the enclosure for pole mounting, and installing a tophat would be complicated because the bottom of the cabinet is occupied by the crossover.
Minor question, Duke: Is that a Line-X coating on Ken's cab? Or a Duratex coating?
Thanks,
MM
there are a lot of gullible dopes in the hi fi world and a lot of opportunistic a-holes ready to take advantage of them. this is why you have $1000 patch cables, $500 wood knobs, and people selling bags of shiny rocks and claiming they have tremendous audio properties.Slight thread dereail, in the Hi-Fi world there is this weird "cultish" sect who prefer these massive single driver, crossover-less speakers I don't understandI don't understand how they can cover the entire spectrum? Do you have any light to shed on the situation or do you think they are strange too? I see you idealogically go the exact opposite direction by concentrating on crossovers, as opposed to avoiding them like the plague.
there are a lot of gullible dopes in the hi fi world and a lot of opportunistic a-holes ready to take advantage of them. this is why you have $1000 patch cables, $500 wood knobs, and people selling bags of shiny rocks and claiming they have tremendous audio properties.
Minor question, Duke: Is that a Line-X coating on Ken's cab? Or a Duratex coating?
Your site took a few hours of my life when I first found it... I notice you didn't have much geared towards theater rooms, is that on purpose? Do you have center channels that you have designed?
Slight thread dereail, in the Hi-Fi world there is this weird "cultish" sect who prefer these massive single driver, crossover-less speakers I don't understand how they can cover the entire spectrum? Do you have any light to shed on the situation or do you think they are strange too?
I see you idealogically go the exact opposite direction [from fullrange drivers] by concentrating on crossovers, as opposed to avoiding them like the plague.
At the Stereophlie show I met some great folks like John Eargle...
You could do what I did on one of my dual purpose DIY cabs: use an external cup that mounts via t-nuts. No intrusion into the cab volume, and easily removable when not needed. I also managed to implement a tilt-back feature that worked perfectly for my needs. But wait, there's more...![]()
...even with their obvious limitations, there are some great-sounding relatively inexpensive single driver systems out there, many using DIY built horn cabs or even simple open baffles. They may not do justice to Metallica or Mahler, but they can arguably reanimate Miles and Mingus in your living room better then many high $$ multi driver designs.
It is really something. And, the price is in line with the other 'super 112s'. Surely not cheap, but not crazy, especially since this is designed to be a 'one cab solution'.
I wish I knew enough about crossovers to intelligently comment on this one. The only thing I can say is you would think this is one big speaker or something. A totally transparent transition from the driver to the horn.. really a bit disturbing when you are playing it looking at that big horn, yet hearing a smooth, organic sort of tone. Don't get me wrong... it goes all the way up to the sizzle area, but it is totally smooth and, well, 'good sounding'.
With the switch set at that 3.5K cut-off (if I have that right... I'm going to ask Duke to post up the nitty gritty on that stuff here), you would never know there is even a horn in this thing.



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I expect my cab to play louder than most 1x12s but fall short of a 2x12. In displacement-limited output, it's roughly comparable to a 3x10.
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The 2x12 that's in the pipeline will perform better for PA in many settings, but it will be a lot heavier and more expensive. However JimmyM's intention to use it for vocals not only caused me to rework its crossover, but also influenced the crossover design of the Thunderchild. As it now stands Thunderchild probably has better midrange clarity than the cab JimmyM beta-tested, but the production version of the 2x12 will outperform Thunderchild in that regard.
My EA CX-310 is not your typical 3x10 -- I'd love to have a 1x12 that could keep up with it!
My woofer has more linear displacement than any three stock Eminence 10" bass guitar speakers EXCEPT for the BP-104 series.
In actual displacement limited output, three S2010s should be a smidgen louder than your woofer (guessing 1-2db) unless I am missing something crucial. Assuming 95db sensitivity and 450 watts displacement limited power handling I'm showing your woofer being 1 to 1.5db behind roughly.
We're measuring with different yardsticks, and therefore getting slightly different results. Three S2010s have a linear displacement of 420 cubic centimeters, and my woofer has a linear displacement of 496 cubic centimeters. That's what I was going by.
it's possibly the most unique cab design i've ever seen, at least in MI world. here's what will happen...you will see it and think, "there's no way in hell it's going to work." then you'll hear from me that it actually does work exactly like duke claims, then you'll fly to florida and make me let you play through it, and then you'll believe itLove to hear a bass guitar through one of those!
The top and bottom woofer of the EA 310 look to me like they're not "typical" bass guitar woofers; they may well have considerably longer throw than normal, in which case my claim would not hold up.
My woofer has more linear displacement than any three stock Eminence 10" bass guitar speakers EXCEPT for the BP-104 series.
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Mothra2, thank you very much for having enough confidence in me and my approach to vote with your wallet and thus help me cover that initial production run of custom woofers. If my little cab fills a niche and helps keep me busy, I'll be a happy camper.
Yeah, they're really subwoofers (looks like they have butyl (sp?) rubber surrounds. The center 10" is a coax, so the cab is sort of a 2.5-way cab with a transmission line enclosure.
To all those talking about volume, I expect this cab to perform at about a 210 level (i.e., between a typical 112 and a 212 in volume).
Is it going to replace my 410 or 212? No. Will it allow me to take a MUCH smaller cab than usual to a variety of gigs and still sound good? Yes!
So DUKE; With Ken's above comments in mind, and revisiting the 8 Ohm option, what sonic differences would be heard with the 8 Ohm (3012LF) version?
Roughly 5%-10% of my yearly gigs are outdoor festival type affairs with FOH support, of course. I can usually get the job handled using just my Goliath 4x10, but with a compact cab, I would need to shore up the bass output with an additional cab such as a single 3015, or perhaps build a similarly sized cab with another 3012 or 3012LF. My amps all have a 4 Ohm minimum, and plenty of power (up to 800 w at 4 Ohms).