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AudioKinesis Cabs Part VI...

#2,541
The lady of our group posted this vid from a couple of weeks ago. She was behind and beside the cab, probably an iphone, but maybe gives some insight to the the side dispersion of the 1203. The room was like playing in a gym and nobody paid much attention to us all night but such is life. Port is plugged.

 
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#2,542
engedi1 said:
So as I have been considering my tone/volume goals. And I really want two TC112 or Possibly a TC112 and a Hathor 1203 that I could stack. However, I can't do this with my 4 ohm TC 112 (which as Mystic Michael pointed out is a collector's item). Would anyone on this thread by interested in a straight up trade for a 8 Ohm TC 112? Mine is in mint condition and has a LeCover that I just got. I would also be willing to trade for Hathor, and whatever I can't get on trade I'll just buy new from Duke.
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The TC112 v1 (4ohm) sounds great with the Hathor 1203. I gig with that pairing all of the time. That combination sounds so thick and full, great clarity through the mids and top, and clean tight booty down below. However all of the amps I use can handle a 2ohm load. What amp are you playing through?
 
#2,543
maisbass said:
The TC112 v1 (4ohm) sounds great with the Hathor 1203. I gig with that pairing all of the time. That combination sounds so thick and full, great clarity through the mids and top, and clean tight booty down below. However all of the amps I use can handle a 2ohm load. What amp are you playing through?
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I wish! I am using a GK 1001 Mark 2. It is only rated for a 4 ohm load. Pairing it with an 8 ohm Hathor would do what, take Ohmage to 2.65? In any case I feel like that would be taking my chances. I really like this amp and don't want to change it out just yet. Most amps are not rated below 4 ohms, what amp do you use?
 
#2,544
Question for Hathor 1203 electric players: How often do you actually use the midrange "smoother" switch?

From what I can gather, the effect of the smoother switch is relatively subtle in any event - not unlike the "AF" acoustic-friendly option on the Thunderchilds in that regard. If the intent is to use the 1203 exclusively, or even primarily, as a rock cab, for which growl is the name of the game, then wouldn't the smoother switch, although not a bad option to have, really be superfluous?

I could see its utility for playing the upright bass. But I don't.

MM
 
#2,545
Mystic Michael said:
Question for Hathor 1203 electric players: How often do you actually use the midrange "smoother" switch?

From what I can gather, the effect of the smoother switch is relatively subtle in any event - not unlike the "AF" acoustic-friendly option on the Thunderchilds in that regard. If the intent is to use the 1203 exclusively, or even primarily, as a rock cab, for which growl is the name of the game, then wouldn't the smoother switch, although not a bad option to have, really be superfluous?

I could see its utility for playing the upright bass. But I don't.

MM
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DSFDF!!!
Don't discourage Duke & his crossover tweaks - the all time Master of crossover tweaks!
lol...
 
#2,547
Mystic Michael said:
Question for Hathor 1203 electric players: How often do you actually use the midrange "smoother" switch?

From what I can gather, the effect of the smoother switch is relatively subtle in any event - not unlike the "AF" acoustic-friendly option on the Thunderchilds in that regard. If the intent is to use the 1203 exclusively, or even primarily, as a rock cab, for which growl is the name of the game, then wouldn't the smoother switch, although not a bad option to have, really be superfluous?

I could see its utility for playing the upright bass. But I don't.

MM
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To quote Duke, "top switch is for top end, and bottom switch is for mids. UP is LOUDER in both cases, so top UP = full top end extension, and bottom UP = a bit of grindy going on. Closest to traditional bass cab voicing = top DOWN and bottom UP; closest to hi-fi = top UP and bottom DOWN."

Subtle but audible difference when moving the switches playing alone. I leave in the traditional setting but have played with various settings on gigs and didn't notice a huge difference. The port plug has proved to be more useful.

But my tastes have changed over time and may do so again so it's conceivable the switches will come in handy one day.
 
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#2,548
Mystic Michael said:
Question for Hathor 1203 electric players: How often do you actually use the midrange "smoother" switch?

From what I can gather, the effect of the smoother switch is relatively subtle in any event - not unlike the "AF" acoustic-friendly option on the Thunderchilds in that regard. If the intent is to use the 1203 exclusively, or even primarily, as a rock cab, for which growl is the name of the game, then wouldn't the smoother switch, although not a bad option to have, really be superfluous?

I could see its utility for playing the upright bass. But I don't.

MM
Click to expand...

I like having the option, and I find it useful when switching between different electric basses, as well as presenting a different voicing for ABG or upright.
 
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#2,549
The amps I presently use with the TC112v1 Hathor 1203 combo are the Monique 700 and the Read Purity Pre with a Crest Prolite 2.0. Soon I will be using the Mesa Subway D800 as well (whenever it arrives already! Yeesh!). They all do 2ohms.. Well the Monique 700 is debatable. Jule recommends a 4 ohm load but the hypex module can actually handle 2 ohms. I don't push the amp hard or play extremely loud so it works fine for me.

As for the switches on the Hathor 1203 I do use them. When I use two 1203's together, I use the switch to cut the mids on one of the cabs. When I use the 1203 with the TC112, then I leave both switches in the up position on the Hathor. Also, in both scenarios I leave the ports unplugged on the the Hathor. I always leave one port plugged on the TC112.
 
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#2,551
Mystic Michael said:
Question for Hathor 1203 electric players: How often do you actually use the midrange "smoother" switch?
From what I can gather, the effect of the smoother switch is relatively subtle in any event - not unlike the "AF" acoustic-friendly option on the Thunderchilds in that regard. If the intent is to use the 1203 exclusively, or even primarily, as a rock cab, for which growl is the name of the game, then wouldn't the smoother switch, although not a bad option to have, really be superfluous?

I could see its utility for playing the upright bass. But I don't.
MM
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Some great advice so far. I will add:

Yes the switches are subtle, however they are very useful. I find that using the switches depends on several things (not just what genre you are performing). The venue/room acoustics (indoor/outdoor), the head you are using, the bass you are using as well as the genre you are performing. I consider it an extension of the "tune-ability" of your rig (I purposely didn't say "an extension of your EQ", because it is more than that IMO). Based on my experience, I would think you would find yourself using them more than you would think.

As maisbass mentioned, when you are using a pair of 1203 cabs, you can use one or any combination of switches for your overall tone goals.

I have also used the switches when changing from a driving rock number to a ballad, I can just reach back and pull the switches down for a different effect.

So yes, you could do without the switches and have one (or a pair) of great cab and it wouldn't be a deal breaker. But I like having them as options.

When I saw your post, I instantly thought about the Thunderfunk TFB heads. Without the Sensitivity and Timbre adjustments, they are great heads. But, those two adjustments (Sensitivity and Timbre) are just useful icing on the cake!
 
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#2,552
engedi1 said:
I wish! I am using a GK 1001 Mark 2. It is only rated for a 4 ohm load. Pairing it with an 8 ohm Hathor would do what, take Ohmage to 2.65? In any case I feel like that would be taking my chances. I really like this amp and don't want to change it out just yet. Most amps are not rated below 4 ohms, what amp do you use?
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Then just pick up another GK and run in stereo. It would probably be cheaper in the long run.
 
#2,558
engedi1 said:
I wish! I am using a GK 1001 Mark 2. It is only rated for a 4 ohm load. Pairing it with an 8 ohm Hathor would do what, take Ohmage to 2.65? In any case I feel like that would be taking my chances. I really like this amp and don't want to change it out just yet. Most amps are not rated below 4 ohms, what amp do you use?
Click to expand...

Have you considered using a series speaker cable or box for a combined 12-ohm load? This would lower your amps max output level, but the rig should still be fairly loud with the addition of the second cab. It's not an Ideal solution, but would be safe for your amp.

I've seen posts warning of possible crossover issues when connecting 2 cabs together in series like this, I have no idea If this might be an issue with Dukes designs or not.
 

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