Amp as DI:
As far as I know, no current class D head requires a cab connected in order to use the XLR out as a DI. Aguilar TH350/500, Ampeg, Darkglass 900, G-K MB200/500/800 or MBFusion500/800, Mesa Subway, TC Electronic, etc.
If you already have any of the above, they can save you buying an extra and unnecessary piece of gear.
OTOH, if you have a specific need for a straight DI, or want one as a gig bag backup, I would consider almost all of those heads to be excessively large and expensive for the purpose.
The one standout that deserves consideration as a gigbag multi-tool is the MB200. Inexpensive, reliable, great EQ w/pre-post switch, lots of gain, capable of driving just about any cab at reasonable levels, active/passive switch, power amp input, etc. Best of all, there are active DI's that are larger!
Bass Preamp/DI:
Safest bets: The new Sansamp BDDI v2 with the mid control, the Mesa Subway preamp-DI and the Sadowsky are all rugged and simple, with great tone-shaping options and sounds that should please just about any bassist. The Mesa and Sansamp are better choices if overdriven sounds are a requirement. The Sadowsky leans toward modern, active tones, the Sansamp sits in the middle, and the Subway is a little more dark and old-school.
All three are simple to use, and have great-sounding DI outputs, a cut above the good-but-not-stellar DI in the G-K heads.
Pedalboard replacements: If you're looking for lots of features, the Zoom B3, Sansamp Bass Fly rig and the new G-K Plex preamp offer interesting extras, but they have a steep learning curve as a result. Ditto for the Radial Tonebone series and the EBS Microbass, Sheehan and Valvedrive pedals. The Zoom has the most effects, but the audio quality isn't as good as the others.
The Aguilar Tone Hammer is another tricky pedal to recommend, as it's quite coloured. People tend to love it or hate it. Another consideration with the more complex pedals is that early adopters of the G-K and BFR have been posting mixed reviews, and there have been noise and reliability issues reported by some users.
If the device is going to be shared by multiple bassists, and all I needed was a good bass DI, I would definitely stick with the Mesa, Sadowsky or Mesa.
Passive DI:
Let's face it- a lot of recorded bass tracks don't involve a bass amp. Give a bass player speaker emulation, tone or gain controls (from an amp head or a bass preamp), and quite often they'll actually make life harder for the folks at FOH.
Simple is good, and the Radial JDI is a bomb-proof industry standard. If you're a tone-weenie, you will find that it sounds noticeably better than more affordable passive DI's (including Radial's excellent Pro DI series), and it's more hi-fi than all but the very best active DI's. Distortion, noise, etc. are extremely close to a straight piece of wire. Because of the lower impedance compared to an active DI, it will round and darken the sound of passive basses very slightly, but in a way that sounds great.
One of the pluses of a passive DI, is that it is always there for you. Aside from leaving the pad or ground switches in the wrong setting, it's idiot and calamity-proof. It will work fine when phantom power is unavailable. This happens surprisingly often on the road- a lot of analog consoles don't like having active mics or DI's hot-swapped without turning off the 48V first.
Active DI:
OTOH, a really good active DI can sometimes preserve signal quality with oddball, difficult sources. Usually, this implies an acoustic instrument with piezo pickups but no internal preamp. If you want to reserve the last bit of fidelity in the sub frequencies with extended range basses or keyboards, an active DI is often recommended, although in most cases FOH will roll that stuff off anyway...
As long as there's a good passive box like the JDI hanging around as a failsafe, an active DI is a nice thing to have in your arsenal.
The Countryman 85 is an industry standard, and surprisingly, it's a few bucks cheaper than the JDI. But for the extra $20, I personally prefer the Radial J48. In fact, it's the cheapest active DI that I would recommend.
The Radial JDV or Firefly are a step up from the J48, but they're pretty expensive.
If you've got more than $200 USD to work with, the sleeper in an active DI these days is the Neve RNDI. No effects or extras, but the phantom-only RNDI is showing up at recording sessions as well as on stage, and at well under $300 USD, it's a steal compared to more expenses boxes.
Although the fidelity of the JDI and the Neve are pretty much as perfect as you can get, sometimes you want a "colour box". I would put the REDDI and Avalon in that category, but TBH, any "magic" they provide is extremely subtle. Unless you're a recording studio owner or playing stadiums, I don't see the point from a sound, price or portability standpoint.