I use this MikroTik router
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NBN69XZ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 its very small and has been rock solid.
We run front of house from a 10" Asus tablet with an older wired Dell laptop on stage as a failsafe. Also have 2-3 7" Fire tablets on stage being used for individual monitor mixes. All through the Mikrotik without a hiccup.
Archer C7 set to 5G for us... FOH is run on iPad (regular or mini) or Andy tablet equivalent.
I highly recommend that one uses EXTERNAL access points (routers for most folks) versus the internal wifi on these devices. Much better control, etc,
I also suggest staying of the 2.4
Remember, getting dropped from the network is more often about the transmit power of the device you are using versus the router.
I cut my TX power by about 30%, and REDUCED the number of attached device drops.
I've attached my band wireless primer. Apologies to those who are aware of this stuff.
Previously posted in other threads.
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SSID - is the name you assign to your router (which runs your "local" network) and the router broadcasts that "access point" name. Go to networks on your cell phone or iDevice/Android and look at the list of available wireless network. THOSE are SSID's being broadcast.
You CAN TURN OFF ("hide") your router SSID broadcast. But keep it a simple label (if you do) so your band-mates aren't constantly asking you what it is.
Wireless security has a variety of types - WEP, WPA, WPA2, WPA Enterprise - to name a few, listed in order of "strength", weak to strong. Not all routers support all types, but most will handle WEP, WPA and WPA2. For a "band" router, security is more about preventing accidental access, as it's unlikely that anyone is trying to hack your network - you have NO internet access! However, in the unlikely event of that happening, you want it to be secure.
WPA2 (I use) is a 128-bit encrypted key that is stored on the router. You enter your own key value in the router wireless security admin screen (in text format). The user enters the same text when connecting to the network which is then encrypted and matched against the stored router value.
I recommend a dual-band router (2.4Ghz and 5Ghz) and using the 5Ghz band ONLY as the "digital" domain (2.4Ghz, channels 1-12) is becoming VERY cluttered by wireless units on stage (Line6, Seen, Shure, etc.) AND all the cell phones in the venue with wireless turned on.
IP Address: Basically, if you take you router off the default 19.168.1.* range, you won't get pinged if your SSID is being broadcast. Another thing you should do is make the 3rd node of your networks IP something other than "1" (between 2 and 255) obfuscating the router and your network.
The following example applies to any number you pick as the 3rd node.
PART 1:
You want your router out of the standard clutter.. So set the 3rd node (192.168.3rd_node.*) to something other than the standard value of 1. You can pick from 2 thru 255. Let's use 37 as an example
Your router IP would be 192.168.37.1, so set that in the config screen. Set the router up as DHCP and set the DHCP starting node to be non-standard - something like 102, or 155, or even 200.
That will give you (255 - n) dynamic IP's available from the starting point eg: 192.168.37.102 -->> 193.168.37.255
You are NOT going to have 60 devices connecting, so you could go as high as starting at 192.168.37.220.
Set your mixer to have a static IP like 192.168.37.55. Make sure it is outside the DHCP range. You don't want an IP conflict with DHCP assigned IP's.
Give the router a simple SSID, you CAN turn off SSID broadcast, but we don't.
Turn on WPA2 wireless security. Again.. keep the connection string (password) relatively simple and easy to remember as it's highly UNLIKELY anyone will be trying to hack your network during a gig.
Following this approach should keep any interference at a minimum.
PART 2: Get a tool like "Wifi Analyzer". Before each gig, run it. It will display a graph of all networks it finds (see pic below) and the channels they are using in both 2.4 and 5Ghz bands.
If your router's 2.4Ghz chosen channel (1-12) is cluttered with other access points, login as admin and change your channel to the least busy shown by the app. Channels 1, 6 and 11 do NOT overlap, so those are good starting points. IIRC - channel 1 or 6 tends to be the default 2.4 channel on many routers. Note that channels 13 and 14 are NOT active in the US, but part of the 24Ghz spectrum.
Do the same for the 5Ghz channels. None of them overlap so that's not an issue.
Should be all set.
NOTE:
If you want to learn more about channels, etc.. Read this:
List of WLAN channels - Wikipedia
In the 5 Ghz spectrum, not all channels are available all the time. Some are Dynamic Frequency Selection (DFS). If DFS is on - and your router supports it - your router will listen for radar or 1st Responders using those shared frequencies and not use those channels. So stick to the non-DFS channels: 36, 40, 44, 48, 149, 153, 157, 161.
I'm using a Galaxy Tab A, but I also use my android phone. We also have band members that have iPads, iPad mini's, iphones and other assorted android devices..
I would look at what else you plan to do with an Andy Tablet - if you are only using it for band (which is mostly what I do), then go for price, not quality/features.
Most "newer" devices will be dual band, and can connect via 5Ghz.
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FWIW - Our router is the highly rated TPLink Archer C7.. $85 (?)
You don't need anywhere near all the features found on most home routers these days (QOS, Internet connections, USB, port forwarding, IP/MAC binding, IPV6, DDNS, parental controls, etc.) for band use. Your router is functioning as a wireless access point (WAP) to allow you to get to your mixer and control IEM and FOH mixes, not really as a router. So don't go out and buy the TOTL router, like a new Netgear Nighthawk!! Serious OVERKILL!!
You COULD even use one of your old routers for this purpose. I used an old Linksys WRT54G for a while - but it was NOT dual band. You definitely NEED a DUAL-BAND router as you should run 5Ghz ONLY if your connecting devices support it!
and another band where the other two were noobs to IEMs who got mad when their new PSM300 systems were cranked to the point of all-out clipping on the transmitters and i insisted on turning them down 
