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Blew my 12".....AGAIN!!!!!

Have you ever heard of Altec Lansing "Voice of the theatre" speakers? My father bought the drivers in the early 70's and made the cabs. One of the best sounding speakers I've heard.

Lol but good idea..thanks. Someone told me too use a vacuum cleaner. Get as close as you can without removing the cone.
I've used the vacuum cleaner to carefully undent a dome tweeter on a home stereo speaker. Should work on the woofer's dust cap if you're careful. If the woofer is crossed over to a mid or tweeter it may not make any difference since the dust cap only radiates the higher frequencies if I understand correctly (and I often don't!).
 
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I'd love to respond fully to this thread but it's so long already I don't have time to read it all! But in case it hasn't been covered:

1. Biamping is putting excessive load on the single 12".
2. Biamping is hiding the warning distortion from the 12" because the 4x8" is running clean.
3. Running the two cabs in parallel will result in much higher low frequency sensitivity, much higher low frequency power handling and overall much greater max SPL.
4. If the rig had always been run in parallel the 12" would have been unlikely to have been blown.
5. When stacking dissimilar cabs I would always put the less powerful one on top so you can hear the warning distortion. Also the 12" will have better dispersion than the 4x8" due to the smaller midrange source.

This is an excellent example of why biamping is rarely a good idea with bass rigs!
 
Have you ever heard of Altec Lansing "Voice of the theatre" speakers? My father bought the drivers in the early 70's and made the cabs. One of the best sounding speakers I've heard.

Lol but good idea..thanks. Someone told me too use a vacuum cleaner. Get as close as you can without removing the cone.
One of those micro vacs works too, I've had success using both hands to get the nozzle just perfectly positioned so nothing gets wrecked.
 
I'd love to respond fully to this thread but it's so long already I don't have time to read it all! But in case it hasn't been covered:

1. Biamping is putting excessive load on the single 12".
2. Biamping is hiding the warning distortion from the 12" because the 4x8" is running clean.
3. Running the two cabs in parallel will result in much higher low frequency sensitivity, much higher low frequency power handling and overall much greater max SPL.
4. If the rig had always been run in parallel the 12" would have been unlikely to have been blown.
5. When stacking dissimilar cabs I would always put the less powerful one on top so you can hear the warning distortion. Also the 12" will have better dispersion than the 4x8" due to the smaller midrange source.

This is an excellent example of why biamping is rarely a good idea with bass rigs!
Too many people use a head with a bi-amping feature to drive a 112 or 115 on the low side and a 210 or 410 for the mid/high side. What they end up with is a mess and certainly not worth the added efforts and hassels.

If one really wants to unleash the benefits of bi- amping, best to use a cab designed as a true sub along with a cab designed as a true top like what the PA guys use. Bill Fitzmaurice has great plans for both.
 
The single 12 will be more capable of matyching the efficiency and output of the 8'gigher frequencies. By raisiforong the crossover and inserting an HPF, the 12 will be limited to working in its intended range and be less taxedtzgylttllt:hyper:i guyIiin the sub range it is not able to reproduce. The 12 will not be able to keep up with the 8's, but it may play loud enough fddor the OPs needs if it is not being slammed with sub frequencies.

Obviously a better solution is to buy a speaker with higher efficiency, more power handling capacity, and a better low frequency response. Do you have a better recommendation than a Fearful 15 Sub?

15 Sub
Dimensions: 20.5"xjhjjjy24.0"x19.5"
Tuning Frequency: ~45-46.5 Hz
Typical Weight: 47-50 lbs​
ya think? Sure highpassing the sub will save it some stress. I never said it wouldn't. But handing the sub 100 to 200 lowers the rig sensitivity and power handling in that range.​
 
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I've used the vacuum cleaner to carefully undent a dome tweeter on a home stereo speaker. Should work on the woofer's dust cap if you're careful. If the woofer is crossed over to a mid or tweeter it may not make any difference since the dust cap only radiates the higher frequencies if I understand correctly (and I often don't!).
Another thing that helps when using a vacuum is to put a sock over the end. Helps prevent you from getting too strong of a seal on the dust cap and pulling it off.
 
IANA designer--just had a note to add to the discussion, from personal experience.

A couple folks mentioned the Phil Jones gear as demonstration that deep lows can come from an array of small drivers. An example of deep lows from a single driver would be Mike Arnopol's MAS 110 sub cab. I've got a lot of gig time on his MAS 112 (yes, a single twelve), and more recently an MAS 46/110 stack, with a loud rock band. With a 5-er (Sadowsky Will Lee) into a GK MB800.

Both rigs are light, loud, and low--.... Cheap, no.
Light, loud, low, cheap. Pick any three?
 
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That's what she said :wideyed: :jawdrop: :roflmao: :smug:
Where would one get a really nice tin can?
The originals looked the same as the Xl's but there was a problem with people blowing the 10's
I've used the vacuum cleaner to carefully undent a dome tweeter on a home stereo speaker. Should work on the woofer's dust cap if you're careful. If the woofer is crossed over to a mid or tweeter it may not make any difference since the dust cap only radiates the higher frequencies if I understand correctly (and I often don't!).
I think your thinking of the whizzer cone. Talk about old technology. Each of the JBL's has 2x10's a mid and a dome.
light, loud, low, cheap. Pick any three?
 
A whizzer cone goes a lot higher in frequency than the dome of a normal woofer. The Barefaced website is where I think I read about the dome of a woofer radiating higher frequencies but if they're above the crossover where the sound gets handed off to the midrange driver, it shouldn't make a difference (other than cosmetic if you can see the woofer through a grill).
 
Too many people use a head with a bi-amping feature to drive a 112 or 115 on the low side and a 210 or 410 for the mid/high side. What they end up with is a mess and certainly not worth the added efforts and hassels.

If one really wants to unleash the benefits of bi- amping, best to use a cab designed as a true sub along with a cab designed as a true top like what the PA guys use. Bill Fitzmaurice has great plans for both.
I starting Bi-amping with a 410 on top and a 115 on the bottom which in hindsight doesn't really make sense.
 
Light, loud, low, cheap. Pick any three?

LOL. Yup! IMO/IME, they're worth the price. Robust--they'll handle a lot of power, go deep enough to rattle ashtrays on the bar tables, and put out a lot of volume. Easy cartage--amazingly small and light for cabs that will handle a loud rock gig. My BL, when I joined the group, said he couldn't believe what the thing could do. He was used to bass players bringing big, heavy rigs.

I'm an old cat, and when I was a pup* I had to lug an Acoustic 371 to do what this rig will do. I'm lovin' the new super cabs and micro heads.

*Added: Eh, yeah, mixed metaphor there...but ya know what I mean, right?
 
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If you have blown five 12" drivers, and they are quality drivers, that should be telling you that you're doing something wrong. Personally I see no reason to biamp in this day and age, assuming there is a high frequency driver on the cab. I would have to assume you're just sending too much low frequency energy to the 112 and it's doing what drivers do when they get too much LF energy.

Keep in mind that it might not be too much watts. The wattage ratings on speakers are just about how much electrical power you can push through the voice coil before it melts. There are physical excursion limits as well--so if you have your bass knobs anywhere in the chain--your active bass, the bass head/preamp, or the amp doing the 100 hz or below turned up too loud--you can push the speaker beyond it's physical limits and destroy it without technically exceeding the wattage rating of the driver.

To fix this, I would say "turn the low frequency energy down". Turn down your bass knobs, or get a high-pass filter to get rid of everything below 30 or 40 hz, which are only rumble in a live environment. I betcha you'll stop going through drivers.

Tom
When I used to listen to vinyl, you could get flutter back through the turntable and see your bass driver flying in and out to it's absolute limit at about 10Hz.
 
LOL. Yup! IMO/IME, they're worth the price. Robust--they'll handle a lot of power, go deep enough to rattle ashtrays on the bar tables, and put out a lot of volume. Easy cartage--amazingly small and light for cabs that will handle a loud rock gig. My BL, when I joined the group, said he couldn't believe what the thing could do. He was used to bass players bringing big, heavy rigs.

I'm an old cat, and when I was a pup I had to lug an Acoustic 371 to do what this rig will do. I'm lovin' the new super cabs and micro heads.

Light, loud, low, cheap. Pick any three?
Will Lee has a Sig bass now?