I received a PM from a forum member that wished to remain unidentified that asked some good questions that I think are best answered here because they go directly to my comments about focusing on what's important, or what's likely to make a practical, real world difference, rather than on what's sexy.
Question 1: I am having trouble in some rooms getting the bass to have a round response down low. In some ranges it almost goes away but in others it's a little too loud. Could this be my DI?
Answer 1: Well the first thing to determine is what the cause of the level changes are from. This may give a clue as to what might be responsible. What happens if you just play the bass with the amp on stage, no PA? Do the level changes go away? Do they get better? Now play the bass through the PA only. Do the level differences remain? The MOST LIKELY cause(s) are due to the acoustic properties of the room/stage interaction along with the bass amp. Wherever you have long waves and large room dimensions, the resulting acosutic energy will represent a diffraction pattern where there will be sum and difference responses (peaks and dips) depending on the levels of both sources, the positions of both sources and the dimensions of the room. Every surface represents a reflective boundery. To use the water in the tub analogy, drop one pebble in the water and you get a (planer) spherical wave pattern. Drop 2 pebbles and you will get 2 spherical wave patterns. Where they intersect you will get peaks and valleys. now looking at the reflections from the walls of the tub, there will be reflections that will create additional peaks and valleys. Where the distances are multuples of the fundamental (and in the case of bass guitar, the dominant harmonics), these sums and differences will multiply at selected points in the "tub". These waves change with frequency (note) so there is a series of these patterns as a result. Where the player is standing may be be in a peak for some notes but transition into a valley for others. Short of changeing the room's boundery acoustics (done in some performing arts halls with variable acoustics systems), a better COMPROMISE (to clarify that it's not an absolute fix) might be to change the level or position of the bass amp, the player, or even the relative positions of the two sound sources (PA and bass amp). One way that this can be done (may not be obvious) is to delay the subs back a few feet electronically to see if the diffraction pattern can be modified so that it's not as intrusive to the player, though it's best for the FOH guy to walk the room to insure that he didn't "fix" one problem by creating another. This is a case of where I wouldn't automatically blame the DI, because the symptoms indicate other much more likely causes.
Question 2: How do bass players hear themelves on larger PA's where there are a lot of subs?
Answer 2: Well, one way is to block out as much ambient noise as possible with in-ears, but for bass players that might not be as effective because the STC (sound transmission coefficient) of in-ears is not generally as good at the lower frequencies. Often, what might be a better choice, is to reduce the bass amp's (or monitor system) low end and concentrate on 100Hz on up since mucg of the sub 100Hz information is being wrapped around the subs onto the stage causing what you are hearing. Now your rig provides 100Hz+ and the PA subs provides the 100Hz-. Yeah, I know this goes against having "YOUR" perfect sound on stage, but that's already been compromised by the PA and the room. If you are going to play on big, loud stages with big PA, you prpbably need to get over having "perfect stage sound". Another way that's been experimented with for the past few years is directional subs. This involves intentionally altering the response pattern (remember that sub frequency wave pattern is spherical) by adding an out of phase or phase shifted signal to null or subtract from the signal going backwards. If you have enough PA (this can take as much as 50% more subs) the results can be "meh" to quite reasonable. I have seen both outcomes.
Question 3: How do I determine what kind of DI is "right" for my bass?
Answer 3: The general rule of thumb is that for a passive bass you will probably get better results with an active pickup because the input impedance of the DI better interfaces with the higher impedance of the bass pickups. With an active bass, I generally prefer passive DI's because of the additional isolation that can be achieved from a typical active DI. (there are exceptions, but this is a good generality). I also tend to stay away from active DI's because of added noise (sometimes inaudible but sometimes quite significant), and the fact that active DI's tenc to be less reliable, and with phantom power, tend to pop and crackle if there are any intermittent connections/contacts.
Question 4: How would I pick one DI over another?
Answer 4: I generally suggest trying several out and if, over the PA systems that you will be using it with (or recording systems that you will be using), choose the one that has the best sound for the amount of money that you are willing to spend. Reliability has to be considered also, of course. If you can't hear the difference, then believe your ears and there may not be a difference regardless of what the marketing and the salesman might otherwise suggest.
Question 5: What's the best toilet paper?
Answer 5: The one that doesn't have an empty roll.