LMAO... He should definitely buy when in stock. But he shouldn't need to buy it for klank. He should buy it just because.
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LMAO... He should definitely buy when in stock. But he shouldn't need to buy it for klank. He should buy it just because.
Lowendtech
Happily trending in my own peculiar direction.
FlipTop Boost on my pedal board. Totally affiliated. I get the feeling that this needs a deep dive in accompanying other pedals. There’s something going on that is worth investigating.
That's a possibility, but let me ask you this - have you ever changed your strings and had to immediately change your technique because the sound was "unbearable"? Seems like too extreme a change to have come from merely swapping strings.
I should buy it and see if it arrives here before the one that is apparently already on the way.
Every Ernie Ball bass I've owned change immensely when I tried different strings, I could always tell the tension, gage and most of all the sound would change. To be honest I only read the preceding comment and nothing before. I just know things got so much easier when I stopped trying to EQ out anything wrong dynamically. Now to shape things or accommodate different rooms that's another story
Okay, but we're talking apples and oranges here. Yes, you get a distinctively different sound from string type to string type - especially if you're going from a flat to a SS round. Granted. And certain strings compliment certain basses, players, and styles. Absolutely agreed. But having done even that extreme sort of change, I have never... ever... had to change my technique to accommodate the tonal difference, and also never... ever... been stuck with a sound that:
A) couldn't be EQ'd into a reasonable approximation of what I had before.
B) was bad to the point of being unbearable - which was the whole point of @Sascha Erni 's original post.
So before, he goes pulling the strings off of his bass, or goes spending another $200 USD (or more) on a pedal (though it is in stock which is reason enough to pounce), I thought there were a few items that might bear some investigation. Again, different strings certainly bring a different tone to an instrument - that's why they make them and that's why we buy them. But to go from acceptable straight to unbearable because of a string change? I'm just not so sure.
Of course, it could be a gain issue...
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Oh... and my apologies to the duty Sergeant At Arms of this thread who now needs to ring me up with some demerit points for suggesting that buying another pedal might in this case be unnecessary. I plead guilty to the charge of Heresy, and will consume the requisite number of bacon slices come breakfast time. If necessary, I will also consume a quantity of pancakes as additional penance. The structures of discipline must be adhered to or we are nothing.
Lowendtech
Happily trending in my own peculiar direction.
Lol, like I said, I read your post and we'll, thats it. To late, to lazy, to tired, but good luck to all parties involved, I hope yours/his? tone finds itself klank free
- stayed up waaay to late playing last night, time to rest before start up again, bass in the corner staring me down as I type this... I'll be the first to start Archetype Annomous I'm sure.
Interestingly enough, the Fliptop Boost does not seem to play well with other pedals. When I drive another pedal with it, the Fliptop Boost pedal clips..and clips hard. Sounds like a blown speaker. I have the dial around noon, so no drive coming from the FB itself and it just seems odd that the pedals after it would make it clip. How does that work?
Sascha Erni
Making things go whoomp, whoomp since 1994
Thanks for the discussion!
Na, I NEED the clank, it’s part of the hard rock / metal sound we’re going for. That is, the way it sounds when playing through an amp with non-tweeter cabs, or when playing into a mixer with loads of options for taming the high-end (mostly, well, LPF per channel). My problem is that with my main band’s rehearsal gear, I don’t have either. No amp, no decent mixing console. So the clank gets pushed full-range through the PA, which is painful when stringing up with fresh strings, and still very distracting when they’re broken in. I have tried to reign them in via the Tone knob, but this results in a dub like sound rather than what I’m after. As the main difference between the rehearsal PAs of my two bands is the LPF engaged inside the secondary band’s mixer, I figured it might be a good idea to just put an LPF on my board.
TL ; DR: I want the board to sound more cab-like when going direct. Which would ideally call for a cab sim or the Broughton RF, but as I already own a HPF I figured adding an LPF at the end of the chain might be the more sensible (and cost-sensitive) way to go at it.
Na, I NEED the clank, it’s part of the hard rock / metal sound we’re going for. That is, the way it sounds when playing through an amp with non-tweeter cabs, or when playing into a mixer with loads of options for taming the high-end (mostly, well, LPF per channel). My problem is that with my main band’s rehearsal gear, I don’t have either. No amp, no decent mixing console. So the clank gets pushed full-range through the PA, which is painful when stringing up with fresh strings, and still very distracting when they’re broken in. I have tried to reign them in via the Tone knob, but this results in a dub like sound rather than what I’m after. As the main difference between the rehearsal PAs of my two bands is the LPF engaged inside the secondary band’s mixer, I figured it might be a good idea to just put an LPF on my board.
TL ; DR: I want the board to sound more cab-like when going direct. Which would ideally call for a cab sim or the Broughton RF, but as I already own a HPF I figured adding an LPF at the end of the chain might be the more sensible (and cost-sensitive) way to go at it.
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What are you powering it with, voltage wise? Its never a giant amount but, raising the voltage, raises the headroom and the clipping point. You're describing how my monocomp was at 9 volts, its exclusively at 24 now. Worth a shot, even 15 & 18 should make a noticeable difference
SV-Pre settings. FWIW, I run mine bass boosted, mids boosted @ about 400hz, low switch center, bright switch on with treble rolled all the way back. I find this really gives a nice sparkle and presence to the top end without being brittle at all. Works great with my set up. Anybody else doing this?
It’s at 18v Which is as high as I can go without ordering a special cable.
I’m just curious as to why the fliptop boost by itself does not clip but does clip when driving another pedal.
Thanks for the discussion!
Na, I NEED the clank, it’s part of the hard rock / metal sound we’re going for. That is, the way it sounds when playing through an amp with non-tweeter cabs, or when playing into a mixer with loads of options for taming the high-end (mostly, well, LPF per channel). My problem is that with my main band’s rehearsal gear, I don’t have either. No amp, no decent mixing console. So the clank gets pushed full-range through the PA, which is painful when stringing up with fresh strings, and still very distracting when they’re broken in. I have tried to reign them in via the Tone knob, but this results in a dub like sound rather than what I’m after. As the main difference between the rehearsal PAs of my two bands is the LPF engaged inside the secondary band’s mixer, I figured it might be a good idea to just put an LPF on my board.
TL ; DR: I want the board to sound more cab-like when going direct. Which would ideally call for a cab sim or the Broughton RF, but as I already own a HPF I figured adding an LPF at the end of the chain might be the more sensible (and cost-sensitive) way to go at it.
If you're sure that the strings are the issue, then you might rather consider the RFE... Klank is likely happening in the 1-2KHz range, and is better controlled by the midrange cut/boost feature on the RFE. Plus the HPF/LPF features on the RFE are more "tuneable" - you can better adjust how much "klank" to keep. A straight LPF forces you to dial out all frequencies above a certain point - which will result in the "dub" sound that you're not keen on. And if you play through different PA systems, better that you should have a device to more comprehensively control your tone.
That's how I ran mine for the brief period that I owned it. It was by far the best sound I could get out of it.
