Sure.. Easy.. High excursion car audio subs are really good at one thing.. Moving alot of air at low frequencies, and doing it in a controlled and sustained way.. By low, I am referring to basically the 100hz and below range.. That is where these drivers shine.. That range is also where many bass cabs start really lacking in volume and quality.. That is due to the paper surround, lower excursion design of most bass cab drivers. Nearly every bass guitar driver (speaker) is designed the same. They have a low excursion design that is very tight.. This is due to the need for the speaker to generate such a large span of frequencies. But, there is no magical recipe for one speaker to rule them all.. The reason there is more than one type of speaker, is because they are good at doing different things..
The reason I chose a car audio driver is because they are specifically designed to generate the low frequencies just as well and just as loud as the bass guitar drivers are designed to create the tight mid frequencies.. A bass guitar speaker is much more similar to a guitar speaker than it is a bass subwoofer.. So, I noticed that hitting a low D or low B string would easily hit the limit of any bass cab I have ever used (I have tried and owned them all).. Not saying it didn't sound good, but the low strings were not as loud, and pushed the limit on max volume that I could attain compared to frequencies above, say 200hz..
Split your signal and run an active crossover into a low-frequency-only cab of ~70hz and below running a high excursion driver and powered with several thousand watts. The RMS rating is much higher when using 120v or 240v amplifiers so you can 2x-10x the power to the driver given the stability is much higher than 12v car systems..
When you build the system properly, and put the driver in a properly designed enclosure for a long-throw subwoofer, it is AMAZING!!! Blows your socks off!! Absolutely amazing!! It adds an experience to playing music that is hard to describe.. you can really feel the music!!