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Club Alleva-Coppolo (Part 16)

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Mitch, I took my flats off my LEPJ cause I liked the sound of the rounds on it better. The flats made it seem like it was missing something. To me, nothing better than dirty rounds! LOL
But, the vids you've posted with KBP5 & flats sounds wicked!

thanks Dig! I have to agree though that dirty rounds definitely have a quality that flats can't reach and I'm slowly learning to love that....my RA5 came with these super dead Black Diamond nickel rounds on it and I just can't seem to take them off!
 
thanks Dig! I have to agree though that dirty rounds definitely have a quality that flats can't reach and I'm slowly learning to love that....my RA5 came with these super dead Black Diamond nickel rounds on it and I just can't seem to take them off!
I don't know about DIRTY, but I would go with "well aged", and in particular, with nickel strings... not so sure if stainless would sound as good. IMHO/IME anyway.
 
Mitch it is always a compromise. You get a 60j with nickels a 70j withSS and a p with flats. Start playing gigs and figure out in what context and rooms work best. Then you settle in on strings and decide which one covers the most ground. It's an evolution or a journey.

Don't try to think you'll come to a final conclusion and just enjoy the journey.

Same thing with the amp sometimes in the dead of winter with snow or a long string of gigs the lighter smaller rig will suffice. Sometimes not, more often then not guys are finding smaller lighter rigs that they prefer over the big ole heavy ones. It's just a matter of time and money.
 
My LM still has the same NAMM nickel strings on... I believe they are Bass Centre Elite strings from UK... We were running low on sets at the shop during NAMM setup and Jimmy decided to throw those on... So if you imagine the amount of hands that touched them plus spending a couple months with me... They are graciously aged. = )


And Mitch, those black diamonds are Miko's thing... His spalted alder LG has the same set it's had since assembly in 1/1/2010.
 
I like these ideas. As a rule, I keep my KPB4 with flats on it and I have a Suhr Classic J in 70's style I bought from Jimmy that I keep nickel rounds on and I feel covered for any situation. I've asked for my KPB5 to come with nickel rounds and that will be another color to work with. I change strings very infrequently, maybe twice a year for rounds and yearly for flats. I tweak the setups often, though.
 
Mitch it is always a compromise. You get a 60j with nickels a 70j withSS and a p with flats. Start playing gigs and figure out in what context and rooms work best. Then you settle in on strings and decide which one covers the most ground. It's an evolution or a journey.

Don't try to think you'll come to a final conclusion and just enjoy the journey.

Same thing with the amp sometimes in the dead of winter with snow or a long string of gigs the lighter smaller rig will suffice. Sometimes not, more often then not guys are finding smaller lighter rigs that they prefer over the big ole heavy ones. It's just a matter of time and money.

Yeah, I realized that a long time ago so I'm definitely at that point of just experimenting with what works best for what situation. I'm really digging the dead rounds that came on my RA5 and every band I've played with since I got it has been raving how much more they like the sound. But I still have the TI flats on the KBP5 which I'm really only using for recording now, and I have that Warmoth PJ5 with the AC preamp w/ TI flats that i use for fly dates.

So I've got everything covered sonically for the most part, it's more of a question of where I think my instrumental voice lies and that definitely depends on the situation or gig for me.

Pete, I have a whole basket of goodies for you and the bass but I never see you....hopefully the BK GTG which is officially April 9th!!
 
And Mitch, those black diamonds are Miko's thing... His spalted alder LG has the same set it's had since assembly in 1/1/2010.

Dude, they're awesome! I had never even thought of trying their strings before other than the black nylons which were cool but not my thing. But these really feel nicer and sound better to me than DR Sunbeams which were my all time favorite nickel roundwound!
 
Hey, anybody got experience with LoPHAT cabs? I'm looking for a really good 1x10 or 1x12 for my theater work and wonder what they may be like. Right now I'm using an Eden CX110 which I really like but you know how it is, you wonder if there is something out there that might be even better. Anyway, my KPB4 is working awesome for "A Chorus Line".
 
Hey, anybody got experience with LoPHAT cabs? I'm looking for a really good 1x10 or 1x12 for my theater work and wonder what they may be like. Right now I'm using an Eden CX110 which I really like but you know how it is, you wonder if there is something out there that might be even better. Anyway, my KPB4 is working awesome for "A Chorus Line".

The LoPHAT's are, in my humble opinion, the best cabs on the market right now. I play through a 2x10 4 ohm cab that is 1400w. The thing is a powerhouse. Paul's design along with the best components make these cabs absolute winners.
 
RS said:
Does anyone else here notice/feel the the tone roll of doesn't seem to have as much "travel" or effect vs. the standard Fender tone pot? 1/4 roll off on my P bass seem like a 2/3-3/4 turn on my LM4.

The main thing I notice with the tone is the usability throughout the entire range of the knob. On the passive Fenders I've played (and the one that I own) there isn't much difference between rolled halfway back and it being rolled all the way off. On my LM5 there is a continual effect throughout the entire sweep of the knob. This could be why you notice less of an effect at 1/4 roll off.

It's nice to me because I can roll the LM5's tone back a quarter just to take the edge off the treble sizzle. Even when slapping, there's still plenty of highs there, it just isn't as harsh.

The only other bass I've played with this versatile of a passive treble is the Celinder Updates. I've never played an actual gig with a Sadowsky though so maybe the VTC is similar.
 
I don't have an A/C with a preamp so I can't speak for the passive tone pot integrated with the preamp circuit. I will say on my KPB4 that the tone pot is useful through its entire range and the apparent volume of the instrument stays the same wherever the tone pot is. Many Fenders I have played lose apparent volume as the tone pot is rolled back.
 
I don't have an A/C with a preamp so I can't speak for the passive tone pot integrated with the preamp circuit. I will say on my KPB4 that the tone pot is useful through its entire range and the apparent volume of the instrument stays the same wherever the tone pot is. Many Fenders I have played lose apparent volume as the tone pot is rolled back.

Is it possible I have a bad cap or pot?
 
Does anyone else here notice/feel the the tone roll of doesn't seem to have as much "travel" or effect vs. the standard Fender tone pot? 1/4 roll off on my P bass seem like a 2/3-3/4 turn on my LM4.
Are you talking about the linearity of the control, or are you talking about the amount of its effect at the max setting?

The linearity is governed by the type of pot used, and I've found these to vary a lot on all kinds of instruments. Just a matter of getting used to it on each one.

The max effect is controlled by the capacitor. If you want it to do more or less than it is, you have to change that... which is COMPLETELY trivial for anyone who even has a basic skill with a soldering iron. Otherwise, any local tech can do it, and it better be for their bare minimum shop charge. Or, find a friend who has basic soldering skills that'll do it for a can of their favorite beverage. :)
 
The linearity is governed by the type of pot used, and I've found these to vary a lot on all kinds of instruments. Just a matter of getting used to it on each one.

Interesting...so I could improve the linearity on my Fender's tone knob by swapping the pot? On mine right now there is no difference between rolling off halfway and rolling off full.
 
Interesting...so I could improve the linearity on my Fender's tone knob by swapping the pot? On mine right now there is no difference between rolling off halfway and rolling off full.
Yes, but the linearity is also affected by particular pickups and the cap and how everything interacts since that's on the passive side of the circuit, so I'm not sure exactly how linear it could get.

Basically, I don't sweat it at all unless it's a pretty significant control problem, which at least for me on the AC, it's not. I've always been able to dial it in pretty quick and reliably to where I want.
 
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