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I like nickels on the LM and RA models - I like Fodera lights, currently on my kid's LM5 and they sound really good.
- Jan 7, 2008
- 2,196
- 224
- 39
- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist: Olinto, La Bella, JuleAmps, Epifani
As do I. I love the fodera strings but I find they die wayyyy too quickly. IME of course. To me, black diamond nickels have a very similar feel and tone but last way longer so those have been on most of my basses for a while now. Fodera and LM5 included
I also found that with the Fodera strings. Nice sounding, but compared to the DR models, they died VERY quickly. Expensive also.
I would not use nickels on my LM (IMO there), but I do use nickel wounds on my P Bass. The Dunlop 5 string nickel set is VERY inexpensive, they sound quite a bit like the DR Lo Rider nickels (a little more midrange response and a bit less sparkle) and they last FOREVER IMO.
For those who are looking for TONS of midrange, and more upper midrange grind than sizzle, the Sadowsky Blue Steels are very cool also... very stiff feeling, and lots of ganky grind and brightness.
Well, just goes to show you, different strokes and all... there's not any appreciable difference in the price of Fodera strings and DR, at least not up here in Canada-land, and not at juststrings.com either.
As for sound, well as in anything that's pure preference. I absolutely Love DR Fat Beams on my LG4; they give that bass an authority and presence that one generally associates a mule kick to the groin. I find that the DR SS strings on the LM can be a bit much - great if you have one sound you're going for and that's it, but the nickels seem to allow for a wider range of tonal options with the EQ and preamp. I really don't find a whole lot of difference in longevity between Fodera strings and others, either. Again, my own preference and my experience, right?
I'll be putting a set of nickels on my Fender P5 soon - looking forward to hearing how that goes, and thinking I might go with a 45-120 set just to focus the low end a touch.
As for sound, well as in anything that's pure preference. I absolutely Love DR Fat Beams on my LG4; they give that bass an authority and presence that one generally associates a mule kick to the groin. I find that the DR SS strings on the LM can be a bit much - great if you have one sound you're going for and that's it, but the nickels seem to allow for a wider range of tonal options with the EQ and preamp. I really don't find a whole lot of difference in longevity between Fodera strings and others, either. Again, my own preference and my experience, right?
I'll be putting a set of nickels on my Fender P5 soon - looking forward to hearing how that goes, and thinking I might go with a 45-120 set just to focus the low end a touch.
+1 Strings are a pretty 'personal thing'. Even differences in galvonic skin response and 'sweat pH' can result in certain strings lasting longer for some and dying quickly for others. The instrument makes a difference too IME. For example, those MTD's with that massive upper treble and huge low end baked into the tone tend to go through strings more quickly than some other basses, due to strings losing the upper end sheen and deep bass a bit more early on (which you REALLY notice on a deep/sizzly voicing like the MTD).
I just checked on the Fodera strings, and had no idea they now have all those different sets, some prices right at DR prices. I only used the 'original's (those Black Diamond tapered sets) that were and still are a bit pricey. Nice strings. They often ran out of them back in the day when they were only selling out of the shop, but it looks like they have a much more robust manufacturing thing going on.
+1 also that I always try to use the lowest gauge B string I can get away with (depending on the instruments heck stiffness, mass, etc.) for a more 'even' feel and tonality. I use a 'balanced' gauge of 125-45 Hi Beams on my LM, and the B string sounds and feels great. On my particular P, which is passive and super lightweight, it seems to sound more balanced with the 130 'big gun' down low.
The bass that surprised me was the RA that I had, which was super sizzly up top... way more than my LM. I had to go from the Hi Beams to Lo Rider nickels on that one, and that worked great to even it and bring out the midrange punch that seems more naturally to exist on the LM (at least compared to my RA).
Complicated stuff to generalize about! +1
LM rookie String update 2: OK...now that I am over my mid-range withdrawels (coming from an alder/rosewood background) I have to admit that DR HighBeams really suite this bass also. While it is flexible with a variety of strings, even involving rolling back the neck PU a touch when using a 3-way cab (not on my 2-way Berg stack for sure), it's strengths are indeed complimented by DR High Beams like so many have posted...both PU's wide open. Kills with my Acme (studio volume only) and kills with my Berg AE-210v stack (at low or rediculous volumes). Don't know what I wasn't hearing earleir with them, but I'm sure hearin it now. FWIW...
UODATE:It was the break-in period for these strings. Really gotta give'em some time before they settle in IMO (lose some scoop, show some mids).
Bottom Line: Embrace the Grind
UODATE:It was the break-in period for these strings. Really gotta give'em some time before they settle in IMO (lose some scoop, show some mids).
Bottom Line: Embrace the Grind
Hi boys, Anyone have any opinions of on how jimmy's burst looks in Poly? Does it compare with Nitro? Is he still able to get that classic 3 tone burst with black red and yellow? Or does it blend into each other like you see on most american standard fenders these days? Jimmy said that the burst will come out a little different in poly Vs Nitro. Just wondering if anyone has any personal experience with burst finish in poly?
Also, just an observation, but it seems like Jimmy makes more KPB's with alder RW combo whilst Carey N seems to sell more VP's with ash / Maple combo? Im of the opinion that those 2 wood combo's wont make muc difference on a passive P bass strung with flats .. What do you reckon? anyone with any experience on the matter?
Also, apart from being "period correct" what advantage do the capped fingerboards give? Does it impart more of the fingerboards sound into the overall tone of the instrument? Does anyone know how much of an upcharge a capped fingerboard is? Does anyone have any current info on how much of an upcharge a Nitro finish is? Im trying to spec out a KBP4 standard. But I'm interested to see how the price compares to a classic, but as Jimmy is obviously very busy, email exchanges can be slow sometimes. If anyone has any info to do with pricing etc, please feel free to PM if you dont want to post here for whatever reason...
Here's my older AC with a poly 3T burst, looks great IMO.
Oh yeah! thats the stuff... I would be chuffed with that kinda burst on my KBP... Thanks for posting that pic.... I am not worried in the slightest anymore about Poly burst.. I mean I could always spring for a Nitro finish if I had to, but I am struggling to get any prices on such things so it is hard to budget... Plus I dont want to have to baby the bass when taking it to gigs all the time..
Thanks again!
I've got a KBP4 Classic with a slab rosewood board and had a '63 Fender P with a capped board. The capped board is going to be brighter as the rosewood is thinner and follows the contour of the radius. I'm a slab board guy myself, to me its a little richer sounding. I also have a KBP5 Standard with a slab board, that's what I like.
I have two KBP4s: That burst has a J neck, slab board, poly body finish, gloss neck finish and TI flats. The other is a HDT model with P neck, capped board, matte water based clear neck and body finish, and AC flats. They are both alder/rosewood. They don't sound the same but both sound wonderful. My advice if you're looking for something specific would be to ask Jimmy what he recommends.
Love the poly burst on my LM I asked Jimmy to blend the colors more avoiding the bright black/red/yellow look and to warmly fade them into each other.Poly will maintain its shine much longer than nitro as well if that's important.
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