Couldn't disagree more. The MM/Sadowsky or the routed at the body end work so much better. Wait until you have a bullet rod pull through and crack at the nut -- You won't like it so much then!
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Couldn't disagree more. The MM/Sadowsky or the routed at the body end work so much better. Wait until you have a bullet rod pull through and crack at the nut -- You won't like it so much then!
- Jan 7, 2008
- 2,196
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- Endorsing Artist: Olinto, La Bella, JuleAmps, Epifani
A few months ago, I noticed a nice little crack running from the first fret block inlay to the nut, and right up to "the bullet". You could also physically feel a bump in the center of the first fret inlay. Sent the neck back to Jimmy and he's been fixing it for a couple months now. He told me he was more comfortable with building the heel-access truss and would be changing my neck from a bullet truss to that design like the older Fenders had. My two other Allevas were heel-access truss rods and they were amazing, too. So far, my experience has been the opposite haha
Couldn't disagree more. The MM/Sadowsky or the routed at the body end work so much better. Wait until you have a bullet rod pull through and crack at the nut -- You won't like it so much then!
Have you seen this with a maple neck? I know that happened often with the rosewood, blocked Fender necks. I thought it was the result of the thin veneer of rosewood.
+1
I've NEVER had a problem with the allen key style, and I've used them a LOT over MANY MANY basses over several years, and I'm one of those guys that's not afraid at all to tweak a neck when it needs tweaking, so I use them regularly... in fact, on another bass I have right now, I'm about to swap the flat blade out with the allen key because they're so much easier to use IMHO.
About the only thing I can imagine being an issue with the allen key is if someone was using the wrong size tool, AND, had some sort of neck/truss rod issue to begin with. With the right tool and a quality instrument, NO problem.
IME anyway.
That said, I definitely prefer the neck heel to the headstock (including the bullet).
I hate fighting the strings to adjust the neck, which admittedly is more with the recessed rod slot (typically under a cover), but still... IMHO, hex or spoke wheel at the neck heel is best.
Chef
In Memoriam
The wheel is my fave. Super easy, no specific too required; I can do it on stage, wearing the bass if I have to.
Yeah you do... you have to have a fairly strong shafted tool the right size... maybe not quite as specific as the right sized allen key, but you do still have to have kinda' the right thing (tho admittedly, not necessarily a precision drill blank). I can also adjust while wearing with the allen key, but I prefer not to unless I'm only loosening. I prefer to defeat string tension across my knee if I'm tightening a truss rod. Not everyone does this, but it makes me more comfortable, and I have a lot less "relief settle" that way (kinda' like always tuning "up" to pitch and never "down").
YMMV, so FWIW.
Chef
In Memoriam
Let me re-phrase: you don't have to have that one specific, long ended 5/16 allen key.
Nearly any allen key, small phillips ir narrow straight blade screwdriver, etc will work if you need it to.
Nearly any allen key, small phillips ir narrow straight blade screwdriver, etc will work if you need it to.
FWIW, I've rarely needed a long-ended key, either.
Don't get me wrong, I do feel the spoke wheel is easier.
I always joked that there should be a law that no bass be made without the spoke wheel design. However, as long as it isn't the old Fender thing where you have to take the friggin' neck off the bass to adjust it, if you spend a couple hours getting the right tool for the job, the difference between all these designs is pretty much a non-issue for me. With a well made bass with good wood stock, you shouldn't have to adjust the neck more than twice a year, unless you are changing string brands/gauges.
When jimmy made my bass I wanted a fatter neck profile. In more then three years I haven't adjusted the bullet truss rod.
True... I just don't like how the flathead adjustment style can "pop off" while you're trying to turn it if you're not careful. The allen key is just so much easier to use IMHO.
Well, there's that, too... Jimmy's neck stability definitely does kinda' render the issue almost moot for AC basses anyway. Probably why I'm not gonna' bother swapping this one out for hex (or spoke)
Chef
In Memoriam
General post...
I've been on a HUGE ash/maple kick recently with my J's but I'm looking forward to a fresh run with my LG and a new set of strings. It's SUCH a sweet bass on SO many levels!!
Jimmy shoots...
HE SCORES!
AND THAT'S THE GAME!!
I've been on a HUGE ash/maple kick recently with my J's but I'm looking forward to a fresh run with my LG and a new set of strings. It's SUCH a sweet bass on SO many levels!!
Jimmy shoots...
HE SCORES!
AND THAT'S THE GAME!!
Until I got my heavy duty curved shank screwdriver, I felt the same way. Now that I have the right tool, it is my second favorite design after the wheel. Lots of torque.versus the small Allen wrench.
Small, minor issue for me.
Chef
In Memoriam
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