I ain't allowed to use no straight blade no more... uh huh... some folks call it a sling blade... uh huh... mmm hmmm... yep...
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Chef
In Memoriam
True... I just don't like how the flathead adjustment style can "pop off" while you're trying to turn it if you're not careful. The allen key is just so much easier to use IMHO.
Well, there's that, too... Jimmy's neck stability definitely does kinda' render the issue almost moot for AC basses anyway. Probably why I'm not gonna' bother swapping this one out for hex (or spoke)
+1 (hit the wrong post earlier)
I really prefer the flat head over almost everything now. NO way it will ever pop out on the Alleva with the curved shank screwdriver. There is no way to get an Allen Wrench as heavy duty as the bent screwdriver. Allows for very smooth, very even adjustment. My LM is totally stable, so zero issue. My LG needed the normal 2-4 a year adjustment.
Using a standard straight screwdriver, +1... sucks. The WORST I ever had was the Fodera, where you had to use that long Allen wrench sort of thing that had ZERO torque. Awful design. That tool would just give and give before the rod would move.
Best design ever (besides the Sadowsky wheel) IMO, the original MTD design that for some reason he moved away from years ago. It was a 'reverse Allen wrench sort of thing, where the 'male' was on the bass, and the female socket was on the tool, with a nice small phillips on the other end. One tool that fit literally everything on the bass... rod, bridge, battery compartment, etc. Very nice! Of course, if you lost that tool, you were kind of screwed!
Was that a Red Handled Allen wrench with a open side on one side?If so you where getting the flex from that.It is best to put the pressure on tightening on the solid side of the handle on the wrench.I use a solid T handled Allen wrench now that I had from my Machinist days.
Wow, we absolutely differ on this.
How heavy duty does it have to be? My gosh, if it's more than an allen key style can deal with there's a serious problem somewhere! And smooth is on both sides of the fence IME. No diff there.
Interesting. Well, maybe I should feel lucky then I guess, 'cause my LG is also that stable. It's really cool. I can pull it out of "storage" and not only will the relief still be perfect, but the damn thing is still in tune. Way cool.
I've never been able to get a regular screwdriver on one of these, so I guess I can't comment on that... I've always had to use the bent tool.
Anyway, FWIW/IME.
I did have one problem one time with my 2011 Bass Player Live Resurrection 4 when I first got it I was unable to adjust the neck to where I like it.I play with a very light touch and set the neck almost perfectly straight.What I had found out was the Truss rod nut which was the kind at the body end of the neck was not threaded right.It was drilled and tapped to shallow and allowed it to run out of threads to straighten the neck properly.What I did was pick up a Fender Nut from a friend of mine that does repairs all around my area and used it tip Jimmy had his machinist make me another.Since that point I think Jimmy has the Nut drilled and Tapped all the way through the full length of the Nut.
- Jan 7, 2008
- 2,196
- 224
- 39
- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist: Olinto, La Bella, JuleAmps, Epifani
My LM5 is also sturdy as a rock. I've maybe had to adjust it twice since I got it and that was only to accommodate string sets with different tensions.
My Fodera Imperial moves a lot. Even with the same strings on it all the time. I probably have to adjust it 4-5 times a year, especially if I travel with it internationally.
My Fodera Imperial moves a lot. Even with the same strings on it all the time. I probably have to adjust it 4-5 times a year, especially if I travel with it internationally.
I remember one time playing a Emperor 5 I had and was standing under a Air Conditioner vent and as I played during a set the warmth of my Hand the neck would change but have never had that happen since !
Initial string report...
Roto steels... ICKY!!! Worst steel strings I've ever felt. Man, gimme DR's ANY day over these. Dark alloy, and just "stiff" sounding, extra "sticky", low strings almost seem so stiff they lack life. I may still try a set of their nickels (again) someday, but they drop to the bottom of my list currently.
Went ahead and put the DA XL's on there and it's much better. Unfortunately, the B string windings are just a small tad loose, so I get a tiny bit of rattle on it, but it's not bad enough for me to rip the strings off. I'll play'em for a while and see how it goes.
Dunlop nickels will be next... whenever that is. We'll see how the XL's fare, but so far, I can see these as being pretty good strings for this bass... feel great, great tone.
Roto steels... ICKY!!! Worst steel strings I've ever felt. Man, gimme DR's ANY day over these. Dark alloy, and just "stiff" sounding, extra "sticky", low strings almost seem so stiff they lack life. I may still try a set of their nickels (again) someday, but they drop to the bottom of my list currently.
Went ahead and put the DA XL's on there and it's much better. Unfortunately, the B string windings are just a small tad loose, so I get a tiny bit of rattle on it, but it's not bad enough for me to rip the strings off. I'll play'em for a while and see how it goes.
Dunlop nickels will be next... whenever that is. We'll see how the XL's fare, but so far, I can see these as being pretty good strings for this bass... feel great, great tone.
+1 And the Rotos will be dead within a week. They were the only strings I used for most of the '70s on my '64 Jazz. As Ken said they were the only good roundwounds around back then. Switched to my first set of XLs in'78 and never went back. The Rotos were like useing a metal file on my frets every time I played.
Jim
Chef
In Memoriam
Well, at least back in the day, the RS66's I remember playing were nickel, and while my "acid grip" did kill them pretty quick, I figured that was mostly just a nickel thing, and they definitely weren't "bad" strings (though I do recall eventually liking DA's better).+1 And the Rotos will be dead within a week. They were the only strings I used for most of the '70s on my '64 Jazz. As Ken said they were the only good roundwounds around back then. Switched to my first set of XLs in'78 and never went back. The Rotos were like useing a metal file on my frets every time I played.
I've been bouncing in/out of the DA's for years myself... my interest got rekindled recently as a result of them shipping on my new Lull J bass. Funny thing tho, I took them off because the B was rattling on it, too (tho much worse)... I mainly figured it was because of the sharp break angle due to thru-body stringing, but I wonder if DA actually has a bit of a QC issue on B strings? We'll see. I pretty much always have at least one set on the shelf for whatever. Great that they come in sealed plastic bags so you don't have to worry about them going dead in the string set box.I switched to DA XL in 1980
They came on my G&L I bought back then.
Chef
In Memoriam
Of the two sets I recently put on, neither had the B string bummer you had.
One set was new, one set was "new in the box" but several years old
One set was new, one set was "new in the box" but several years old
Of course, this would also beg the question, why did Jimmy move to the bullet type if they were known problematic in the first place, and, why are they still shipping with them? Are you going to have to remove your neck now every time you want to make an adjustment???
Of course, this would also beg the question, why did Jimmy move to the bullet type if they were known problematic in the first place, and, why are they still shipping with them? Are you going to have to remove your neck now every time you want to make an adjustment???
i think the issue could be at least somewhat prevented depending on the thickness of the block thats used. theres a lot of wood removed from the fingerboard in fenders when block inlays are used. check out some of these x rays
http://timeelect.com/54-neck.htm
its also not really just a bullet truss rod issue. ive seen old stingrays with headstock neck adjustment with cracks at the first fret from over tightening the rod. ive also seen it happen at the heel as well on old fenders. and oddly enough, my 74 jazz with heel adjustment and block inlays, had a small crack at the first fret and thats at the anchor end of the rod. imo, if the neck constantly needed to be tightened to correct forward bow to the point the nut is sinking into the access hole and compressing the wood than the issue was more in the neck than the style of truss rod nut.
+1... makes a lot of sense. Those block inlays ...hmmm.
Glad I loosened mine for these flimsy High Beams ;>).
Dude: Those x-rays freaked me out!
- Jan 7, 2008
- 2,196
- 224
- 39
- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist: Olinto, La Bella, JuleAmps, Epifani
Yeah this is exactly what happened to my neck:
I'm not sure if Jimmy is going to give up doing the bullet truss design on EVERY future LM but I know this isn't the first one he's had to repair like this and if he's more comfortable building with the heel-access truss he should just do it. I certainly don't care about "period correctness", I just want my Alleva to be indestructible. He already abandoned the awful 3 bolt neck joint thing so who cares?
I'm not sure if Jimmy is going to give up doing the bullet truss design on EVERY future LM but I know this isn't the first one he's had to repair like this and if he's more comfortable building with the heel-access truss he should just do it. I certainly don't care about "period correctness", I just want my Alleva to be indestructible. He already abandoned the awful 3 bolt neck joint thing so who cares?
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