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Club Bordwell Part 2.

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News Updates. Nicky, I think you will love the Yellowheart P Bass. Yellowheart has a very cool but understated shimmer to it that is just flat out cool. My former Yellowheart/Alder, Modern/Rosewood, Nordstrand/Audere was without a doubt the best sounding bass I've ever touched, by far.

Best,
Justin
 
Nah- from the engineering side, it's totally trivial. Expanding the circuit or expanding the board is easy. But all of those elements mean they need to have all of the production tooling to be redone, and that is expensive.

The wire and pickup element you mentioned are production issues.
Well, I have some experience in electronics design, trouble shooting, and A/D,D/A signal processing and MIDI conversion, and I still think you oversimplify, and In fact, I would even say the production stuff would be no big deal. Not even sure if you'd have to do much, if any retooling... I'm betting it'd fit in the same box.

Also, just so you don't think I'm talking out my... ear... I have over 14 years experience working for a company the designed and built electronic equipment all in house. From concept to boxed on the shelf ready to ship... including both surface mount as well as older school through hole component technology. The only thing we didn't do in house was etch the boards we laid out. We didn't do signal processing (that part came later for me), but we did high speed communications protocols and protocol conversions, so much of it's applicable.

Conservation of hardware design is usually easy unless you're radically changing physical interconnect, because by the time you rev the product, you can get more advanced stuff and fit more cool stuff in the same form factor. Double the horsepower, double the features, but halve the hardware. :)

Retooling would only be for the pickup, IMHO.

But it's a moot academic point anyway. The product ain't happenin.

Anyway, FWIW.
 
I had some spare time (and an ounce of motivation) so I pulled the Rami 5 from its case for the final tweak / repair. Looks pretty good and the playability is much improved:

CBRami5Front-1-1.jpg


CBRami5Rear-1-1.jpg


Here's a recap:

*Re-planed the fingerboard & re-fret.
*Replaced the abby position markers with white.
*Ground the 3mm truss rod nut to accept flathead tools. This was a trick-and-a-half.

Riis
 
I had some spare time (and an ounce of motivation) so I pulled the Rami 5 from its case for the final tweak / repair. Looks pretty good and the playability is much improved:

Here's a recap:

*Re-planed the fingerboard & re-fret.
*Replaced the abby position markers with white.
*Ground the 3mm truss rod nut to accept flathead tools. This was a trick-and-a-half.

Riis
Man, I'm blown away you did all that. I'd think planing and refretting a fingerboard would be really hard to do unless you were "in the biz" and have a bunch of specialized tools. Then again, your profile doesn't say too much about this kinda' thing... maybe you have all that stuff. :)

Beautiful bass tho... grats on the recovery!
 
Man, I'm blown away you did all that. I'd think planing and refretting a fingerboard would be really hard to do unless you were "in the biz" and have a bunch of specialized tools. Then again, your profile doesn't say too much about this kinda' thing... maybe you have all that stuff. :)

Beautiful bass tho... grats on the recovery!

No, my bad....I outsourced the fingerboard work. The final tweak was cutting the TR nut and set-up. The nut is recessed in a cavity and non-removable and non-replaceable. I was able to reach it with my Dremel handset and fine-tipped burr, much like a dentist. Didn't have much of a choice; the only other option would be to remove / sacrifice the fingerboard and replace the truss rod. Who knows...the repair may last the lifetime of the instrument. The fingerboard was another story: it's a resin-infused spalted maple (?) FB which demo'd a wonky profile. Kenny Marshall (AL&M) re-planed / surfaced, and re-fretted. Apparently, these fingerboards are really difficult to manipulate when compared to maple, rosewood, PF, etc.....I got my money's worth!

Riis
 
The fingerboard was another story: it's a resin-infused spalted maple (?) FB which demo'd a wonky profile. Kenny Marshall (AL&M) re-planed / surfaced, and re-fretted. Apparently, these fingerboards are really difficult to manipulate when compared to maple, rosewood, PF, etc.....I got my money's worth!
Yeah, they're that "stabilized" wood he gets. I got a spalted birdseye board for my upcoming Ball 5 that's made of that stuff. I'm hoping that translates to a super durable and stable board.
 
Sent my deposit earlier in the week for a SC 5 fretless. Walnut, maple accent line, and the Thuya Burl top Cliff had. Modern neck with Gaboon Ebony board. Headstock faceplate will be the Thuya Burl again. Nordy Fatstacks, Aggie pre (though I'm giving thought to the Audere --- heard it's quieter). I am so psyched about this build.

Earlier today I ordered a single knob from David King (ebony/walnut/ebony). I asked for the plain dimple on top, dome style, and knurled sides. If I dig the way it looks I will probably have a set of the wooden knobs.

Now the wait..and the constant echoing thought of...should I call Cliff and get the parallel chamber treatment...?
 
here is my most recent addition to the "my CB is the sh**" posts.
YouTube - Black Tar.mov
Hope you guys enjoy. Was using an MXR envelope filter and running thru my trusty markbass rig (F1, 1x12)
:bassist:
My Ball 5 should be being built now I think, and your clips just make me more excited about it. I'm a total fan. If I was in the Chicago area, I'd be buggin you for lessons. :)

Great taste, tone, mobility, and fluidity... exactly the kind of bassist I try to be.
 
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