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Club Fbass (thread 13)

One more thing: looking at your Fender in another thread, do you happen to know the string spacing on your Jazz V?

Some guys jump back and forth between string spacing better than others, but whenever I go from 19mm (standard string spacing on Fbasses and 4-string Fenders, etc.) to something narrower, I spend the first couple of minutes messing up as my hands adjust -- which I don't like doing during a live gig. Consequently, I've standardized all my basses on 19mm.

Hey Tom,

Thanks for the input. I'd actually read some of your thoughts on spacing in one of the prior F-Bass Club threads, but hadn't thought of it here for some reason.

I'm actually not 100% sure where the spacing is set on the Jazz as it is slightly adjustable via the notches on the saddles. I have it set as wide as it'll comfortably go wrt fretboard width and the strings staying put in the saddles. I'm guessing ~18mm. Maybe in this case something "close" to 19mm would take more time to adjust than something way off like 16.5mm... who knows.

Since my last post, I put some Super Bright Nickel Rounds on (tangent - my first use of them, and wow do I like) and took it along to a jam with my funk band. The "other" bass player (who plays keys with this group) loved it, so I may end up selling to him.

I've also sent in a request to Marcel for some BN6 progress pics... will post em when I get em!
 
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Okay, it's a little thing, but my Peterson Strobe Tuner, which I've had forever and love, was killed today by a leaking battery. Anyone have recommendations for me? I'm open to anything.

I use the Turbo and TC Polytuner myself. I have the ST200 and ST300. 300 is great when I play the fretless because that thing will show the tune even with the sound coming out of the amp. I forget what this is called. The ST200 needs to be in a tuner out to do this.

Visibility wise ST200 is better. 300 seems too bright which makes it blurry but there might be some switch to dim it down. Speed? I can't tell the difference. They say 300 is faster, not that I can tell. They say the switch on the 300 is now better made for hard usage.

I just got the Takamine TB10 and I can tell you this much. When I used the TC polytuner, it would not register the E string too well. The Turbo 200 and 300 does it with no problem. I have no idea why. I guess you get what you pay for.
 
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The Sonic Nuance TDI is a really cool Jensen-transformer DI plus very accurate tuner pedal.
Thanks, but I already have a tuner pedal. I am looking for something clip on, so I can just do quick tunings to play along with music in the house, or lend to a guitar player on an acoustic gig.

I'm considering the Fishman FT-4 Clip-on Digital Chromatic Tuner & Metronome. It is chromatic, so I can tune my low B and high C strings, it is piezo, so I can tune in a noisy situation, and a mic so a horn player could borrow it too.

I've looked at TC as well, but I can mostly find guitar player reviews, and I'd like a bassist to tell me it's good.

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I uses the cheap clip on Boss tuner TU10. It works. Cheap. Accurate. Easy to read. Colorful.

I have the TC polytune but never use that option. I tune the strings one by one but when you strum it often it gives some sort of flat signal on one or two strings.
I am sure it's working but you start to wonder how accurate is the string by string tuning, so you tune them one by one, once again, only to find out that there is nothing wrong with it.

It gets frustrating when this happens and you start to doubt the tuner's ability. To me it became a total waste of time and energy so I scrapped that process.

I am sure if I used different strings or different chord and somehow changed some part of the instrument, it might work. But that's just too much work. Much rather just get over with tuning and practice.
 
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