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Club Moollon

I’m still enjoying the honeymoon phase with this P5. It’s a keeper. Might even snag another at some point. 1 rounds and 1 with flatsView attachment 5234372

you certainly have a good one there. I normally don’t have regrets moving a bass but I did with this one… so much that I took over an order that someone offered me… hope to have it by the end of the year.

What flats did you put on her?
 
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you certainly have a good one there. I normally don’t have regrets moving a bass but I did with this one… so much that I took over an order that someone offered me… hope to have it by the end of the year.

What flats did you put on her?

It really is great and I thank you again for it! Oddly enough, @Derek DiFilippo convinced me to try NYXL rounds and I’m loving them. But it will definitely get Labella DTF when it’s time. I can’t wait to see your new bass when it gets there!
 
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Apologies for a question that has probably been asked and answered in the previous 164 pages, but using the search function I have been unable to find more than passing comments on this topic:

What are Moollon owners’ feelings about have an expert luthier route a small notch in the body for truss rod access? I am considering having this done so that I can access the truss rod by removing the pick guard. My classic P neck sits deeply enough in the neck pocket that I can’t access it effectively without at least removing the neck screws, and I’ve found that in my environment I need to adjust my truss rods at least 1-2 times/year.

Thoughts? Recommendations? Would a minor aftermarket truss rod route in the body turn you off of purchasing a pre-owned Moollon?

Thank you in advance for your thoughts.
 
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Apologies for a question that has probably been asked and answered in the previous 164 pages, but using the search function I have been unable to find more than passing comments on this topic:

What are Moollon owners’ feelings about have an expert luthier route a small notch in the body for truss rod access? I am considering having this done so that I can access the truss rod by removing the pick guard. My classic P neck sits deeply enough in the neck slot that I can’t access it effectively without at least removing the neck screws, and I’ve found that in my environment I need to adjust my truss rods at least 1-2 times/year.

Thoughts? Recommendations? Would a minor aftermarket truss rod route in the body turn you off of purchasing a pre-owned Moollon?

Thank you in advance for your thoughts.

I haven't been on the thread for a bit but it's an option you can ask for it from YJ unless something has changed. I got a small notch in mine from YJ that sits under the pick guard. Still have to remove the pick guard but not the entire neck. That way it also keeps it visually to spec. So if you are waiting for your Moollon email them and ask them to do it. If you picked one up second hand I personally would see no harm in it if you fully trust the person you're taking it to.
 
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I haven't been on the thread for a bit but it's an option you can ask for it from YJ unless something has changed. I got a small notch in mine from YJ that sits under the pick guard. Still have to remove the pick guard but not the entire neck. That way it also keeps it visually to spec. So if you are waiting for your Moollon email them and ask them to do it. If you picked one up second hand I personally would see no harm in it if you fully trust the person you're taking it to.

I appreciate the response. I have finally found a truly great luthier near me, and he’ll be working on a classic P I recently acquired here. When it arrived, the neck had so much relief in it that I adjusted it as much as I was comfortable with (with the neck removed) just to make it playable. I would have flipped it were it not for the fact that it has the best tone of any bass I’ve ever played, but my luthier checked it out prior to making an appointment to work on it (he’s got a long waiting list) and he assured me that he could get the action low and buzz free. Once I’m sure that it’s a long term keeper, I’ll have him route the notch.

The problem I’ve run into now are the recurring thoughts: if this one sounds so amazing, what if there’s one out there that sounds even better? And don’t I owe it to myself to try to find out?
 
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I appreciate the response. I have finally found a truly great luthier near me, and he’ll be working on a classic P I recently acquired here. When it arrived, the neck had so much relief in it that I adjusted it as much as I was comfortable with (with the neck removed) just to make it playable. I would have flipped it were it not for the fact that it has the best tone of any bass I’ve ever played, but my luthier checked it out prior to making an appointment to work on it (he’s got a long waiting list) and he assured me that he could get the action low and buzz free. Once I’m sure that it’s a long term keeper, I’ll have him route the notch.

The problem I’ve run into now are the recurring thoughts: if this one sounds so amazing, what if there’s one out there that sounds even better? And don’t I owe it to myself to try to find out?

They are incredible instruments. Mine has remained my main player both studio and live. Hope the luthier gets the neck sorted for you so it plays to your liking. The addition of the slot under the pick guard is nice. I'm happy I did it. Adjusted it quite a bit when I was running through some string tests early on but haven't really had to touch it since.

As to your last conundrum...I feel like they all have their own mojo. Rescuing this one may reward you in the future!
 
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Moollon is my main P bass! Fantastic instrument. As to flatwound strings I prefer TI Jazz Flats and lately Dogal Ultraflats. Fantastic strings these last ones with a lot of punch and character. The advantage over TI is Dogal come in a variety of gauges and you can even buy single strings and build your own set
 
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After 4 years of owning my Moollon P I'm still in the honeymoon phase. Doubt it will ever end. Just absolutely love the bass and if it wasn't a 3-4 year wait I'd order another one to have one with rounds and one with flats. The nitro finish has worn in so nice. A true relic that came from heavy use and time and just looks amazing. It just keeps getting better and that's probably what keeps the honeymoon phase going. Funny that when I got it even though Moollon was well established..not a lot of people outside of some fellow bass players knew what it was when I'd gig with it. It was still kind of a secret amongst the forums and boutique lovers. Now people come over to talk to me about it and drool over it. LOL

Cheers to the entire Moollon fam here and those that are patiently waiting to officially become part of it!!! Hang in there.
Yeah, it's worth it. I'm sadly down to 1 Moollon from 3, but the P stays. Even though I needed to clean house, it was never a doubt that I couldn't live without it.
 
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My 11 year old son has a flute presentation on his school. He told the teacher that his going to play bass while the other Kids play flute. Funny thing is that is the first time his ever had interest in music.

My wife text me saying your son just graved your Moollon to practice Merry Christmas by John Lennon. I'm a happy man.
 
Apologies for a question that has probably been asked and answered in the previous 164 pages, but using the search function I have been unable to find more than passing comments on this topic:

What are Moollon owners’ feelings about have an expert luthier route a small notch in the body for truss rod access? I am considering having this done so that I can access the truss rod by removing the pick guard. My classic P neck sits deeply enough in the neck pocket that I can’t access it effectively without at least removing the neck screws, and I’ve found that in my environment I need to adjust my truss rods at least 1-2 times/year.

Thoughts? Recommendations? Would a minor aftermarket truss rod route in the body turn you off of purchasing a pre-owned Moollon?

Thank you in advance for your thoughts.

YJ charges like $100 or something for this teeny-tiny hemisphere, when what I thought I was paying for was, like, and inch-long route that you could shove a screwdriver into. Perhaps he thinks it's sacrilege to do more, I don't know.

The good news, though, is that with most of these basses, you can use the paint lid opener tool and the teeny tiny hemisphere is enough to get the job done. But is it too much money for what it is? I believe so.
 
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But is it too much money for what it is? I believe so.

You don’t just hire anybody to cut out a truss rod slot on a Moollon bass that doesn’t have one.

Considering all the labor involved, a luthier/tech who is of the proper caliber to do this job right on a premium instrument is going to want at least $75-100 and probably more. There is more involved than just a router and a handshake - neck removal, pickguard removal, router template fabrication, cutting the wood and the pickguard, measuring and masking, whatever spot refinishing and/or beveling needed to make it look factory and professional, and then reassembly. This is not quick and easy.

if an inexperienced person tries to do this on a high-end premium instrument, it’s going to end up looking like a dog that lost every fight. Guaranteed. And then nobody will buy it second-hand unless you knock off hundreds from regular asking prices.

So add $75-100 to the time and expense of going to a good shop, dropping the bass off, waiting the time it takes to do the mod to a high standard, and then going back to get it. Last time I checked, YJ charges $150 for the notch as a build option. This seems to be in the realm of fair, keeping in mind it requires extra time he might not really have in light of all his outstanding orders.
 
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You don’t just hire anybody to cut out a truss rod slot on a Moollon bass that doesn’t have one.

Considering all the labor involved, a luthier/tech who is of the proper caliber to do this job right on a premium instrument is going to want at least $75-100 and probably more. There is more involved than just a router and a handshake - neck removal, pickguard removal, router template fabrication, cutting the wood and the pickguard, measuring and masking, whatever spot refinishing and/or beveling needed to make it look factory and professional, and then reassembly. This is not quick and easy.

if an inexperienced person tries to do this on a high-end premium instrument, it’s going to end up looking like a dog that lost every fight. Guaranteed. And then nobody will buy it second-hand unless you knock off hundreds from regular asking prices.

So add $75-100 to the time and expense of going to a good shop, dropping the bass off, waiting the time it takes to do the mod to a high standard, and then going back to get it. Last time I checked, YJ charges $150 for the notch as a build option. This seems to be in the realm of fair, keeping in mind it requires extra time he might not really have in light of all his outstanding orders.

Goodness, what an outburst. You obviously didn’t make the most charitable reading of what I said. I’m not talking about making a bigger route after the fact (the OP was, I wasn’t), I’m talking about making it bigger and more useful during the construction phase, when it’s bare wood, on an un-attached body, which would incur none of your litany of labor and charges. What you get now looks like the worlds smallest melon-baller carved a tiny chunk out of the neck pocket. Jeez.
 
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But is it too much money for what it is? I believe so.
paying the xtra $100-150 for the easy truss rod access notch was totally worth it, to me. I’d probably have to pay that much or more to have someone else do it after it was built.

I knew it wasn’t going to be big enough for a regular screwdriver. I knew I’d use a paint can opener because Moollon recommended that to me when I was asking about getting the notch done on my build. What I wasn’t expecting is that YJ painted the notch to match my pickguard. A nice and unexpected plus.

The small notch YJ charges extra for is plenty useful for the purpose of avoiding neck removal when adjusting the truss. For me. It gets the job done without carving an unnecessary amount of instrument out.

edit to add that YJ carved out my notch after the body was already painted, as I selected a painted body he had hanging unclaimed in the shop.

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The small notch YJ charges extra for is plenty useful for the purpose of avoiding neck removal when adjusting the truss. For me. It gets the job done without carving an unnecessary amount of instrument out.

This 1000%. When I'm spending what I was going to spend for the bass whatever he wanted to charge for it was worth it. Checked my old emails and it was $100 for the body routing. I did not have the pick guard notched so I still have to remove that which was exactly the way I wanted it.

He did a really clean job on yours and it's not even noticeable with the notched pick guard unless you're right up on it. Exactly the way you'd want it imo.

Was kind of fun reading through my old emails to look this up. Best thing was seeing the 6 month estimate Andi gave me on March 25th 2019. I remember thinking it was going to be near impossible to wait that long.
 
paying the xtra $100-150 for the easy truss rod access notch was totally worth it, to me. I’d probably have to pay that much or more to have someone else do it after it was built.

I knew it wasn’t going to be big enough for a regular screwdriver. I knew I’d use a paint can opener because Moollon recommended that to me when I was asking about getting the notch done on my build. What I wasn’t expecting is that YJ painted the notch to match my pickguard. A nice and unexpected plus.

The small notch YJ charges extra for is plenty useful for the purpose of avoiding neck removal when adjusting the truss. For me. It gets the job done without carving an unnecessary amount of instrument out.

edit to add that YJ carved out my notch after the body was already painted, as I selected a painted body he had hanging unclaimed in the shop.

View attachment 5237148 View attachment 5237149
I might have felt differently if my pickguard had also come like yours. I still have to take my PG off, but I like what I'm seeing on yours. My whole thing is that, if you have to take the PG off to adjust, then who cares how much is routed? This isn't a real pre-CBS Fender, and I don't pretend like it is. It's a tool that happens to be made with exquisite care and expertise, but that doesn't stop me from wanting neck adjustments to be easy. The PG routing on yours is barely noticeable, especially with tortoise, so I could get down with that.
My later build had an anodized pickguard so it was not an option.
 
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