It wasn't my intention to label it as useless. I‘m sure many people use it. I just found the name funny
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It wasn't my intention to label it as useless. I‘m sure many people use it. I just found the name funny
The oval pickguard is growing on me. I didn't like it at all either at first. Here's my MM/J. I do love the 18mm spacing though.
I’m not the biggest fan of the WL preamp, but I’ll always defer to the nearly 100 years of wisdom and experience of the two guys that manifested it. I’m comfortable knowing that Will can hear stuff I don’t. I’m of sufficient OG status in the game - even then, for every gig I’ve done, Will has done at least 250 high-end gigs on the world stage with the creme de la creme. If that can be considered an appeal to authority argument, so be it. Someone or something has to be an authority sometimes.
From what I understand, Will was always trying to get a certain set of frequencies and response out of his Sadowskys, and the only way he could get it was through a very strong right hand attack. He eventually wanted to move away from that. Will worked with Roger to find out what was needed in terms of boosts and their width to get that sound without the extra physical effort. After prototypes and beta-testing, the result is the WL preamp.
From what I understand, Will was always trying to get a certain set of frequencies and response out of his Sadowskys, and the only way he could get it was through a very strong right hand attack. He eventually wanted to move away from that. Will worked with Roger to find out what was needed in terms of boosts and their width to get that sound without the extra physical effort. After prototypes and beta-testing, the result is the WL preamp.
I don't find much use for it, but I also boost mids at 800 MHz at the amp, or currently the SVP-CL preamp I'm using. I also typically don't use the onboard preamp much, if at all, because I EQ at the amp/preamp. There have been a few times where I go direct through a Neve RNDI or Khan SVDI that I boost the bass just a smidge. So I guess, I could understand the need/want for the mid boost if you're not EQ'ing things the way I am. It's nice to have options I s'pose.
Agreed on the specs. I looked through the bag thinking it must be in here, but no dice. Now I know though and from my love for EBMM basses and experience with them, I know that I typically lean toward parallel with the highs cut a bit (or VTC rolled back in this case). Definitely lots of tonal options on the MJ and now that I have the honk figured out, I'm digging all of the possible combinations possible with the switches.
I think the main issue was that the control was completely dimed inside the cavity and that was just completely unpleasing to my ears. Playing with it more this morning, I initially turned it all the way off, losing a bit of gain in the process, but ultimately dialed it back in a bit. We'll see how it does live, based on it's comparison to the sound of the WL-5, which definitely has that single coil bite the MJ does not, I think it'll do great. Time will tell.
I will say that based on this bass, the Warwick build quality seems great! Fretwork is impeccable and the "invisible fret technology" is a very nice touch. I could live without the adjust-a-nut, but I guess it's cool to have the adjustability option. The soft-touch pickup covers are exquisite...I really like those! Knobs and pots feel great (noticed the knobs have more a silver-ish stripe rather than white). There's nothing wrong with the Metro tuners at all (are they different on the higher end CustomShop basses?) but I do think the Hipshot USA tuners are superior. EDIT: I'll add that the MJ only weighing in at 7.75 pounds is also fantastic!
I took the pickguard off and think it might stay that way...still deciding.
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Pretty much the same for me - didn't care about the mids but liked the specs of the bass. Though, I'll say my WL-5 is a phenomenal example of jazz bass tone, with great single coil bite, bark, and growl whether used with the preamp on or bypassed.
At 2:24 Lars said the VTC can be used as a tone control when you are in passive mode. Well, yes that's true. But you can also use it in active mode which he uses later.
Follow up - the Metro MJ5 crushed it tonight! I think I’m really going to dig this bass. Ran it split evenly between the two pickups all night and in parallel mode for both. Beside the sound, the ergonomics of this model - 18mm string spacing with the narrower nut width and slimmer neck taper - really check some boxes for me.
I’m going to have to get a soldering iron out though after this trip and get that pickup pan switched. The typical Sadowsky way is just backwards to my brain.
I’m going to have to get a soldering iron out though after this trip and get that pickup pan switched. The typical Sadowsky way is just backwards to my brain.
Woww!!!! Amazing! I tried to download the pics to my fav. Sadowsky gallery, but failed...
TimothyGroovy
Commercial User
- Aug 3, 2000
- 2,374
- 2,097
- Disclosures
- Owner: Uni•Sound Endorsing Artist: Sadowsky Guitars, Olinto Bass, LaBella Strings
Thats funny because I’ve gotten so used to the reverse direction of the Pan pot that when I recently built out a Bacchus that I got from Japan, I connected the pickups so they’d operate like the Sadowsky’s.
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Hey everyone, I’m a big fan of Sadowsky Blue nickel strings on my Satin and Fender and want to start migrating that string into the herd.
But some of my basses are string through bodies.
They say in the description not to use these on string through, but I’m usually cutting off lots of excess when I do install on a j platform.
Any reason I couldn’t use these on a string through body?
Sadowsky 4-String Bass Strings Standard Nickel 45-105 | Reverb
But some of my basses are string through bodies.
They say in the description not to use these on string through, but I’m usually cutting off lots of excess when I do install on a j platform.
Any reason I couldn’t use these on a string through body?
Sadowsky 4-String Bass Strings Standard Nickel 45-105 | Reverb
You would need to measure the distance from Ball to silk that your bass needs. The most obvious problem is rarely overall length, but more commonly playable length. You don't want to end up with silk on the wrong side of the nut. Considering that it sounds like you already have some Sad Blues on hand, as well as the Fender, that should be an easy enough thing to find out.
You may also encounter a problem with the taper wound end, depending on how it lays in the string through channel. Technically there's less material there so it could potentially be prone to breakage but I'm not sure about that so I'll leave that part to someone else to answer.
My early 90’s Sadowsky NYC Workhorse bass with 1000+ shows and never a problem aside from a dead battery during a show (user error) Solid ash, maple board and EMG pickups - all stock original.
Love the hi powered FORTE /REF cabinets too…and the Undercover cases.
Love the hi powered FORTE /REF cabinets too…and the Undercover cases.
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I've gotten so used to it that my other basses are backward to me now!
