common designs you feel are flawed

[WarriorJoe7]

So many songs are in E, especially rock stuff. I've had it happen where I couldn't play that high E when i wanted to a couple of times. But I never worried about a note above that E. Maybe it's me personally but I think atleast few others would agree.

I don't get it. A Fender style 20 fret bass has every note exactly three times, no more, no less.

You want at least 21 - which gives you every note exactly three times... except E... you get 4 of those. Why should E be more special than the other 11 notes?

 

[Arx]

How about teaching students the importance of a good strap? I don't experience neckdive with any of my various basses becuase my straps won't let them dive. If I used a cheaper, more slippery strap it might be and issue. Instead I spent $30 and got good straps.

This also easily addresses your #3. I play with a good strap and keep the bass in the same position whether seated or standing.


I agree on the number of frets.

You prefer a constant lateral pull on your shoulder to a properly balanced bass?

 

[()smoke()]

You prefer a constant lateral pull on your shoulder to a properly balanced bass?

maybe he not so much prefers it as accepts it as a simple and fairly tolerable way to handle a bass regardless of the balance

...but then again, maybe he does prefer it--kind of like a hug every time you play!

 

[Arx]

maybe he not so much prefers it as accepts it as a simple and fairly tolerable way to handle a bass regardless of the balance

...but then again, maybe he does prefer it--kind of like a hug every time you play!

Yeah, it is certainly a good way to make a badly balanced bass tolerable, but IMO, it's still a flawed design.

 

[Darkstrike]

6) without fail, acoustic basses that have super high action (I always wondered why the hell this was).

The higher the action,, the louder acousic instruments get, IIRC.
I used to have my ABG like this, but when I stopped bringing it to jam sessions, I dropped the nut, and bridge saddle down dirt low, and poped on flats, for playability and tone, but the volume was indeed lowered.

BTW, when the action was lowered, before I put on flats, the volume lowered, it wasn't just the flats effect.

 

[WarriorJoe7]

Yeah but I have yet to hear an acoustic bass (guitar) that didn't need to be plugged in (high action or not.)

The higher the action,, the louder acousic instruments get, IIRC.
I used to have my ABG like this, but when I stopped bringing it to jam sessions, I dropped the nut, and bridge saddle down dirt low, and poped on flats, for playability and tone, but the volume was indeed lowered.

BTW, when the action was lowered, before I put on flats, the volume lowered, it wasn't just the flats effect.

 

[Darkstrike]

Yeah but I have yet to hear an acoustic bass (guitar) that didn't need to be plugged in (high action or not.)

Ernie Ball Earthwood!

Supposedly the Tacoma Thunderchief,

I have a cheapo ABG, with no cutaway, has no trouble keeping up with a guitar and two to three singers, haven't tried with multiple guitars though.

 

[#include <MK>]

I have yet to hear an semi-acoustic bass that doesn't sound like crap. Not starting anything with this, it's just every time I hear one it sounds terrible.

 

[dblbass]

That also goes against my experience. I tweak my basses and they don't need time to settle. I'm not even sure how far back that edict about "1/4 turn and wait a day" goes. It's hardly the norm. Heck, I could make a quick tweak during a set if I was bored enough.

Thats how it should be. i disagree with the allen wrench, i like a gibson style nut, but to each his own. Ive played many basses where the truss rod simply doesnt work the way it should. Its good that your basses dont need time to settle, what kind of truss rods do you use?

 

[Brad Johnson]

You prefer a constant lateral pull on your shoulder to a properly balanced bass?

I don't experience that. I use a good strap. I experience the bass held in place, the only sensation being the weight of it spread out instead of localized.

 

[Brad Johnson]

Thats how it should be. i disagree with the allen wrench, i like a gibson style nut, but to each his own. Ive played many basses where the truss rod simply doesnt work the way it should. Its good that your basses dont need time to settle, what kind of truss rods do you use?

Most of my main basses have Allen type adjusters. I have some others that take a regular wrench, which works but tend to round off over a period of time. I dislike screwdriver type adjusters, phillips or flat, because they usually don't allow the tool to meet the screw straight on.

On the Brubakers they have heavier duty than normal dual action trussrods. I like the dual action because I can dial in back bow. I never have an issue getting straight enough with that.

 

[Brad Johnson]

maybe he not so much prefers it as accepts it as a simple and fairly tolerable way to handle a bass regardless of the balance

...but then again, maybe he does prefer it--kind of like a hug every time you play!

And maybe it doesn't happen. Too obvious?

 

[megadan]

Here's a fun excercise: Try to picture a bass with ALL of the features meantioned in this thread (where they don't contradict). What does it look like? Photoshop it!

 

[dblbass]

the nice part about a regular wrench is that its pretty easy to find a new nut. not sure what its like finding an allen wrench nut.

another design flaw that i see is thick plasticy finishes. some people like em but i personally dont. I take care of my bass but it sees alot of action. Rock gigs, pit gigs, studio work and traveling take a toll on an instrument even if you take care of it. My bass has a thick poly finish and you can see every ding and scratch. not that i really care but it would be nice to be able to take care of these small spots without doin a whole lot of work. I like Oil finishes cause they are easy to apply (when building) look good (in my POV) and when your bass gets scratched or dinged you can just sand it out and put a little oil on it.

 

[#include <MK>]

Here's a fun excercise: Try to picture a bass with ALL of the features meantioned in this thread (where they don't contradict). What does it look like? Photoshop it!

Now there's an opportunity to open a new thread pointing out the design flaws of the "perfect" bass.

Looks like things are moving full steam ahead into personal preferences rather than actual design flaws.

 

[Brad Johnson]

Now there's an opportunity to open a new thread pointing out the design flaws of the "perfect" bass.

Looks like things are moving full steam ahead into personal preferences rather than actual design flaws.

That's where they've been the whole time

 

[bass349]

I don't experience that. I use a good strap. I experience the bass held in place, the only sensation being the weight of it spread out instead of localized.

cool man.. each to his own.

IME straps definately help (i use wide leather straps on all my basses), but it definately doesn't help enough for me.

As far as teaching my students to play with a strap whilst sitting.. well, i do do that when i need to. But still a massive design flaw in my opinion. You shouldn't NEED a strap whilst sitting down! plus, if i'm doing 4-5+ hours practice a day, sitting down, with a strap pulling on my shoulder.. well, anyone who's been there i'm sure knows what i'm talking about. Neck dive is an issue that should not NEED to be solved - it should be solved in the product development stage, figuring out how the instrument is going to balance whilst sitting AND standing. all IMO obviously.

ps. on another note, i agree that the bass should be in the same position whilst seated and standing. Thats why to me it's so important to have a bass that sits well in the lap, and balances the same when strapped on - so when you put your million hours of practice in sitting down, and then go to a gig and stand up, all your technique doesn't fly out the window.

 

[jojo99]

Because IME a slothead is far clumsier to use than an allen which, if you use the proper size (I've had no issue finding the right one for any of my basses), has a far greater contact patch.

I read somewhere that manufacturers deliberately make the truss rod nut of soft metal so it'll strip before the rod threads do if it's cranked too hard (easier to replace). When you get a second-hand bass, there's the possibility the previous owner used the wrong sized allen wrench and started the process of stripping the female hex receptor of the nut (sorry to use such a technical and/or sexual term LOL). Are all allen wrenches created equal? Usually they are black, but sometimes the ones that come with cheapo basses are that yellow-plated type. Ideally should the wrench be as soft as the nut, or harder?

 

[ehque]

I read somewhere that manufacturers deliberately make the truss rod nut of soft metal so it'll strip before the rod threads do if it's cranked too hard (easier to replace). When you get a second-hand bass, there's the possibility the previous owner used the wrong sized allen wrench and started the process of stripping the female hex receptor of the nut (sorry to use such a technical and/or sexual term LOL). Are all allen wrenches created equal? Usually they are black, but sometimes the ones that come with cheapo basses are that yellow-plated type. Ideally should the wrench be as soft as the nut, or harder?

The bass makers should be responsible for the stripping of the threads or the female hex receptor of the nut. The allen key makers are not. Hence, soft nuts, and hard wrenches.

That post sounds quite wrong.

 

[ehque]

Here's a fun excercise: Try to picture a bass with ALL of the features meantioned in this thread (where they don't contradict). What does it look like? Photoshop it!

Probably not far from this :

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