Since you are running two different cabs, putting one on each channel will give you the ability to balance the volume between the two, or favor one a bit to adjust the tone to your liking. Plus you theoretically have more total watts available into two 8 Ohm loads than one side into 4 Ohms.
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Crown XLS Drivecore 2 owners
- Thread starter 4string4ever
- Start date
Yes, that would be the simplest thing to do, since I onlu want to use 2 cabs. I'll probably have to step up to the 1502 for more juice.
EdwardofHuncote
I Still Dream of Jeannie
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There's a download-able manual at this link. Invalid Link Removed
The instructions for the various modes of operation (including bridge mono) are there in step-by-step. This is for the XLS 2000, but I think the operation is the same on "DriveCore" series amps.
I love mine... I'm using the built-in crossover and dedicated channel 1 for low frequencies only.
The instructions for the various modes of operation (including bridge mono) are there in step-by-step. This is for the XLS 2000, but I think the operation is the same on "DriveCore" series amps.
I love mine... I'm using the built-in crossover and dedicated channel 1 for low frequencies only.
Bridged mode works best when dealing with a single 8 ohm load as it better accommodates the wider voltage swings. Case In point: I've used Acme 8 ohm B-4's which are notoriously power hungry (700-1000 watts). Given the power amp in question...and it's a nice one...the best option would be bridged rated at 700 watts. OTOH, I also occasionally use (2) 5.2 ohm Epifani cabs. Now, I can run one in bridged mono as the amp is rated for 4 ohm (close) but I cannot add the second enclosure via daisy-chain as this would drop the impedance (ohmage) to 2.6 well-below the 4 ohm rating. I'm pretty much relegated to using one enclosure per channel (stereo or dual mono via a Drivecore 1500) which gives me ~450 watts per channel.
Riis
Riis
You could bridge the amp to both cabs (4 ohm load) and be careful...or just try setting your amp to 'Y input'/'Stereo' and run each cab at 8 ohms (215w) each. I've got an XLS 2500, and I do think that you could bridge yours to both cabs at 4 ohms and be careful. The level knobs on the front seem (at least to me) to work more like master volume controls rather than input gain sensitivity controls like older power amps...just wanna make sure your line level from your preamp is right. The 'limiter' function might be helpful too, provided it doesn't impact your overall dynamics.
Hey, that's cool man. What kind of cabinets do you have for the lows and the highs? Are they different?
The power difference may seem like a lot but it's not that impressive acoustically. If you want to make a really noticeable difference in output, you need 4 times the power.
EdwardofHuncote
I Still Dream of Jeannie
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Hey, that's cool man. What kind of cabinets do you have for the lows and the highs? Are they different?
A pair of mirrored baffle Avatar SB126's and a B15 equipped with a Kappalite 3015 LF driver. Though the SB126's are full-range cabs, (they were pretty awesome just by themselves with the Crown in "bridge mono" mode) Right now I have the amp set in "Y filter" mode, so I could assign a crossover setpoint, sending all frequencies below 94Hz to channel 1. There's a lot of different ways to use this power-amp, but this was simple for a quick and dirty.
So as not to hijack, here was a post I did last month on the whole rig rundown...
New Rig Day, Crown/Alembic/Avatar edition.
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Question for XLS 1002 owners, I have mixed up my power cables and I can't figure out which one goes to this power amp. I have one that says 125V and another that says 250V. Which is the one that goes to this amp?
A "250V" cable will tend to have a European-style plug on it that won't be very useful to you in Arizona, I wouldn't think. But what matters isn't how the cable's labeled, it's what's coming out of the wall socket vs. what the amp is set up to handle. Look at the back of the amp - there should be a white dot next to the voltage it expects.
The 250V is just a regular 3 prong cord. Not European. The amp is set at 120V. So the 125V cable is the one that probably came with the amp?
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(Generally) Most cable is now 250 volt rated, the only thing that changes is the connectors for the different markets.
For the 120 volt markets, no problem using either. For the 230 volt markets, you will want to stick with the 250 volt cable and if it has molded on plugs for the 230 volt market than surely it will be 250 volt rated cable.
For that model amp, 18 gauge or larger would be acceptable (based on their NRTL listing)
For the 120 volt markets, no problem using either. For the 230 volt markets, you will want to stick with the 250 volt cable and if it has molded on plugs for the 230 volt market than surely it will be 250 volt rated cable.
For that model amp, 18 gauge or larger would be acceptable (based on their NRTL listing)
Zombie resurrection mode:
Any other experience with this amp? It looks awesome, especially with the option for high input sensitivity. My Eden Navigator and fEARFul 1212/6 might like this little guy...
Any other experience with this amp? It looks awesome, especially with the option for high input sensitivity. My Eden Navigator and fEARFul 1212/6 might like this little guy...
I used the xls1002 for the past year with various preamps (sansamp, zoom, ART) and always had great results. I had plenty of headroom. The ability to switch input sensitivity and to set a hpf using the crossover were my favorite features. Also loved the blue lights.
The ART pro channel preamp that I used is similar in layout to the navigator so I'd bet that the eden would pair up nicely.
The ART pro channel preamp that I used is similar in layout to the navigator so I'd bet that the eden would pair up nicely.
It's like you read my mind, brother. One of my favorite rigs all time was the Paradriver straight in to my XLS-1500. The darn input sensitivity was a bottleneck though. But shoot, these new ones have a real bandpass filter as well. I must have been asleep since these got released.
But really, I'm sold by the black case and blue lights
What year/model ART? I was looking at those back in the day...
I have the ART Pro Channel version one, probably 10 years old. It's a nice Swiss Army knife preamp - variable hpf, semi para eq with selectable q, optical or tube selectable compressor with nice metering. Plenty of output to drive any poweramp. I wish it had a front panel 1/4 inch input, otherwise it rocks.
I started leaving the pro channel at home to lighten up my rig and ditched the rack altogether, just used a soft mixer bag to bring the crown and cables. I realized if I come out of the sansamp vtdi 1/4 out with the +10 engaged it would hit the crown hard enough.
Even using the zoom ms-60 instead of the vtdi would drive the crown but I needed to switch to the .775 sensitivity and pretty much dime the output of the preamp model on the zoom.
I set the crossover on the crown up for a hpf to tighten up any flab. Great feature. It works well and is easy and light at load in/out time. The best part is the crown is pretty cheap out the door.
I started leaving the pro channel at home to lighten up my rig and ditched the rack altogether, just used a soft mixer bag to bring the crown and cables. I realized if I come out of the sansamp vtdi 1/4 out with the +10 engaged it would hit the crown hard enough.
Even using the zoom ms-60 instead of the vtdi would drive the crown but I needed to switch to the .775 sensitivity and pretty much dime the output of the preamp model on the zoom.
I set the crossover on the crown up for a hpf to tighten up any flab. Great feature. It works well and is easy and light at load in/out time. The best part is the crown is pretty cheap out the door.
I just ordered it: should be here Monday. I'm pretty excited, especially the bandpass filter. The specs look like they dealt with every criticism I had of version 1. Which is great, since I still use v.1 in my home stereo.
I'm about to order the Crown XLS 1002 and enter the Preamp + power amp world.
I have a LDS 15/6/1 rated at 900 watts/4 OHM and using a Sansamp Bass Driver Deluxe for a Pre.
I will run it in the bridged mode. I have read a lot of manufacturers overstate their wattage. Their specs state 1100 watts bridged 4 OHM. Would this Crown give me enough headroom? Any input would be appreciated!
I have a LDS 15/6/1 rated at 900 watts/4 OHM and using a Sansamp Bass Driver Deluxe for a Pre.
I will run it in the bridged mode. I have read a lot of manufacturers overstate their wattage. Their specs state 1100 watts bridged 4 OHM. Would this Crown give me enough headroom? Any input would be appreciated!
The XLS 1002 will give you more than enough power for this particular speaker. Having said that, it won’t have much headroom or flexibility if you change your setup over the course of time. For example, if you ever decide to add another identical enclosure, you will not be able to deliver significantly more energy through the system.
I use a 1502 in single channel (not bridged) mode at home into an 8ohm 1x12 and it’s adequate but not overpowering. I would consider going as high as the 2502 if playing live and future extensibility are factors.
Having said all that, it’s a solid product, and having a HPF built in is quite useful.
