D Standard Club (DGCF)

[MrAB4003]

I use Stringjoy nickel roundwounds on my 4003, great thing is the have custom sets where you can choose the exact gauge you want, which in case of Rick is very useful since they use the weird 45-55-75-105. I went exactly +5 up on each string with DGCF tuning. They sound exactly as the original strings which is what I wanted, but in D. Nothing floppy and they stay perfectly in tune. Great stings for a very reasonable price.

I also used the LaBella Gold and Copper tapes at 115, way to floppy and they sounded dull to me.
For tapes I now use Magma BE500NB at 53-73-93-113 black nylon tapes, excellent strings, sound amazing.

Good to know about the Stringjoys! I like the tone of rounds, but I don't like how they feel on my hands. That's another reason why I switched back to the Rotosound 55 pressurewounds / half rounds. I still get that bright tone, but they're smoother than most rounds. But they're still not as smooth as the La Bella tapes I've been playing.

I use the light gauge La Bella White and Gold White tapes on my E Standard basses and the tension is perfect for me. But D Standard is different of course.

 

[MirandM]

Good to know about the Stringjoys! I like the tone of rounds, but I don't like how they feel on my hands. That's another reason why I switched back to the Rotosound 55 pressurewounds / half rounds. I still get that bright tone, but they're smoother than most rounds. But they're still not as smooth as the La Bella tapes I've been playing.
...

You should try the Magma tapes, they sound exactly like roundwounds (because in fact they are) but play butter silk like Pyramid gold flats. I use them mainly on my fretless ones because they have that sharper edge to it while you can perfectly slide over the neck like an upright.

 

[MirandM]

You should try the Magma tapes, they sound exactly like roundwounds (because in fact they are) but play butter silk like Pyramid gold flats. I use them mainly on my fretless ones because they have that sharper edge to it while you can perfectly slide over the neck like an upright.

Here are two photos of the Magma's:

For fretless these are imho the best strings. If you have a lacquered fretboard they don't leave the typical winding marks. They're not floppy at all, and in fact I have they exact same bass with a fretted neck carrying a slightly lighter gauge of the same string (the BE400NB at 50-65-85-105) also at D and they also play great.

 

[MrAB4003]

Good to know about the Stringjoys! I like the tone of rounds, but I don't like how they feel on my hands. That's another reason why I switched back to the Rotosound 55 pressurewounds / half rounds. I still get that bright tone, but they're smoother than most rounds. But they're still not as smooth as the La Bella tapes I've been playing.

I use the light gauge La Bella White and Gold White tapes on my E Standard basses and the tension is perfect for me. But D Standard is different of course.

Update - I switched the Gold Whites to the La Bella Black tapes on one of my E Standard basses. But like their white counterparts, the Black tapes are too loose in D Standard. I will consider the Magma tapes in the future.

 

[Prodigus Filius]

@MrAB4003
Are you using the 45-105 Roto 55's on your 4003?. I reckon 105 for D on a full 34 incher, let alone the 33 and a bit Rick is too sloppy in my opinion. I think a minimum of 35lbs tension, regardless of scale length, is something to shoot for. Do you find that to be the case ie a bit slack with the 105? I think you really need a 115 on a long scale for D.
On another front, maybe you know this, but selecting the gauge for a good D tension is is a bit iffy when you use tapewounds e.g if its the 60-115 labella tapewounds you tried, the tension is around the same as a non nyloned set of 50-105 rounds. The nylon wrap increases the gauge of the string, but not the unit weight of the string. Taking .01 of the listed tape gauge and checking out the tension based on that is the go. So D will feel too sloppy with a 115 tapewound string because the 'real' gauge for tension purpose is 105.You really need a 125 gauge tape for D that will have the goldilocks 35ish pounds minimum on long scale in my opinion. GHS 5iver tape wound set GHS-3060-5
has a .125 in it. Prob other brands too. I don't use tapewounds so I'm not up to speed on the ins and outs of available sets. Ditch the 105 and use the rest. Be farelly low tension for the F2 using the .050 tape, but if you like bending it would be ok. Better a looser high string than a bottom string I reckon. The set would have a fairly progressive tension too if that is something you like.
The overall tension would be a fair bit less than your typical 45-105 set of rounds or something would be though.

 

[MirandM]

@MrAB4003
Are you using the 45-105 Roto 55's on your 4003?. I reckon 105 for D on a full 34 incher, let alone the 33 and a bit Rick is too sloppy in my opinion. I think a minimum of 35lbs tension, regardless of scale length, is something to shoot for. Do you find that to be the case ie a bit slack with the 105? I think you really need a 115 on a long scale for D.
On another front, maybe you know this, but selecting the gauge for a good D tension is is a bit iffy when you use tapewounds e.g if its the 60-115 labella tapewounds you tried, the tension is around the same as a non nyloned set of 50-105 rounds. The nylon wrap increases the gauge of the string, but not the unit weight of the string. Taking .01 of the listed tape gauge and checking out the tension based on that is the go. So D will feel too sloppy with a 115 tapewound string because the 'real' gauge for tension purpose is 105.You really need a 125 gauge tape for D that will have the goldilocks 35ish pounds minimum on long scale in my opinion. GHS 5iver tape wound set GHS-3060-5
has a .125 in it. Prob other brands too. I don't use tapewounds so I'm not up to speed on the ins and outs of available sets. Ditch the 105 and use the rest. Be farelly low tension for the F2 using the .050 tape, but if you like bending it would be ok. Better a looser high string than a bottom string I reckon. The set would have a fairly progressive tension too if that is something you like.
The overall tension would be a fair bit less than your typical 45-105 set of rounds or something would be though.

Even though you're right for the most part, it's not all about tension. Some 105 strings can be used very well for D it all depends on the materials and construction used.

I have a very old set of Gibson G-B99 Equa string (not made anymore) at 45-65-85-105 that work very good in D, they are stainless which obviously makes them far stiffer and thus not floppy at all.
Also some necks have no problem with a lesser tension while others may be more finnicky.
Personally I prefer 110 or 115 at the D which most of my basses have. Only two with 125 and 120.
Some years ago I had one with 135, way too heavy and requiring too much nut-work.
After rebuilding that bass (I do my own luthier work) I mounted a new nut to be able to go back to a more "decent" string.

As said earlier, the Magma goes at 113 gauge which in reality is about 110 given the tape wrap, that's fine with me and they do the job perfectly.
It's all a question of personal preference and trial and error. And even over time your preferences may shift, like mine have.

 

[Prodigus Filius]

Even though you're right for the most part, it's not all about tension. Some 105 strings can be used very well for D it all depends on the materials and construction used.

I have a very old set of Gibson G-B99 Equa string (not made anymore) at 45-65-85-105 that work very good in D, they are stainless which obviously makes them far stiffer and thus not floppy at all.
Also some necks have no problem with a lesser tension while others may be more finnicky.
Personally I prefer 110 or 115 at the D which most of my basses have. Only two with 125 and 120.
Some years ago I had one with 135, way too heavy and requiring too much nut-work.
After rebuilding that bass (I do my own luthier work) I mounted a new nut to be able to go back to a more "decent" string.

As said earlier, the Magma goes at 113 gauge which in reality is about 110 given the tape wrap, that's fine with me and they do the job perfectly.
It's all a question of personal preference and trial and error. And even over time your preferences may shift, like mine have.

Yes, you are right about gauge/tension and stiffness not neccessarily coinciding. String material, core to wrap ratio can all lead to a stiffer feeling string, all things being equal, even if tension stats don't suggest it.. If I had a long scale, which I don't have, I would like to try the labella 0760M 52-110 DTF's in D. From what I read about them, a lot of people find them too stiff in E standard, but in D they are really good. Have you tried that set yourself?
Lowering tension, either by downtuning or gauge selection is actually a good thing for bass guitars with necks or designs that render the bass prone to developing ski jumps from what I read.

 

[Abner]

Yes, you are right about gauge/tension and stiffness not neccessarily coinciding. String material, core to wrap ratio can all lead to a stiffer feeling string, all things being equal, even if tension stats don't suggest it.. If I had a long scale, which I don't have, I would like to try the labella 0760M 52-110 DTF's in D. From what I read about them, a lot of people find them too stiff in E standard, but in D they are really good. Have you tried that set yourself?
Lowering tension, either by downtuning or gauge selection is actually a good thing for bass guitars with necks or designs that render the bass prone to developing ski jumps from what I read.

The Original '54 flats from LaBella are indeed excellent flats for D-standard. I have a set on a 34" Ibanez RS824 Roadster, and they sound and feel fantastic. I've tried them on other long scale basses, an RS940 fretless and also a Vantage VA900B fretless. Excellent strings for all, but I keep going back to the Ernie Ball Group I stainless steel flats on my main player, the fretless RS940. They are 0.055, 0.075, 0.090, 0.110.

(I also think that just because a set of strings sound great on one bass, it doesn't mean they will sound great on the next bass, even if they came off the factory floor the same day with consecutive serial numbers (but then again, they might). Have to find the right strings for each bass, and that means you have to try them all. Or least a whole bunch.)

 

[Prodigus Filius]

The Original '54 flats from LaBella are indeed excellent flats for D-standard. I have a set on a 34" Ibanez RS824 Roadster, and they sound and feel fantastic. I've tried them on other long scale basses, an RS940 fretless and also a Vantage VA900B fretless. Excellent strings for all, but I keep going back to the Ernie Ball Group I stainless steel flats on my main player, the fretless RS940. They are 0.055, 0.075, 0.090, 0.110.

(I also think that just because a set of strings sound great on one bass, it doesn't mean they will sound great on the next bass, even if they came off the factory floor the same day with consecutive serial numbers (but then again, they might). Have to find the right strings for each bass, and that means you have to try them all. Or least a whole bunch.)

Good point that each basds has its' say in what strings are best for it. I must get a set of the Jamersons, but will need a long scale to try them on. What comes first, the strings or the bass he he.

 

[BassKees]

D-standard on my Fender Classic 60s Jazz Bass with these strings works great.

 

[MrAB4003]

@MrAB4003
Are you using the 45-105 Roto 55's on your 4003?. I reckon 105 for D on a full 34 incher, let alone the 33 and a bit Rick is too sloppy in my opinion. I think a minimum of 35lbs tension, regardless of scale length, is something to shoot for. Do you find that to be the case ie a bit slack with the 105? I think you really need a 115 on a long scale for D.
On another front, maybe you know this, but selecting the gauge for a good D tension is is a bit iffy when you use tapewounds e.g if its the 60-115 labella tapewounds you tried, the tension is around the same as a non nyloned set of 50-105 rounds. The nylon wrap increases the gauge of the string, but not the unit weight of the string. Taking .01 of the listed tape gauge and checking out the tension based on that is the go. So D will feel too sloppy with a 115 tapewound string because the 'real' gauge for tension purpose is 105.You really need a 125 gauge tape for D that will have the goldilocks 35ish pounds minimum on long scale in my opinion. GHS 5iver tape wound set GHS-3060-5
has a .125 in it. Prob other brands too. I don't use tapewounds so I'm not up to speed on the ins and outs of available sets. Ditch the 105 and use the rest. Be farelly low tension for the F2 using the .050 tape, but if you like bending it would be ok. Better a looser high string than a bottom string I reckon. The set would have a fairly progressive tension too if that is something you like.
The overall tension would be a fair bit less than your typical 45-105 set of rounds or something would be though.

Yes I am. I used to use the 45-105 Roto 55s in E Standard and I thought they were too tense. So I figured tuning them down to D Standard would be fine. I also put the tension info in the Stringjoy tension calculator and all 4 strings are around 35 pounds each. The strings are coming in the mail in a week, so I will give an update once I get them and put them on my bass.

I ordered the 60-115 La Bella Gold Whites on my 4003 a few months ago. But I didn't want to file the nut on such an expensive bass. Thankfully, I was able to trade those strings here on TB for a set of light La Bella Blacks that I use on another bass (tuned to E Standard). I'm aware of why tapewound manufacturers raise the gauges on their strings. That's also why I chose the light gauges for my E Standard basses. I like the tension they provide, which is a little looser than normal, and that's why I'm trying to get with the Roto 55s tuned to D Standard.

 

[MrAB4003]

View attachment 5157899
D-standard on my Fender Classic 60s Jazz Bass with these strings works great.

I previously used the DDT-65s for C Standard, but I traded the bass they were on. The DDTs are good strings if you want rounds. But I prefer pressurewounds and tapes because they're smoother on my hands and I still get a bright tone with the right settings.

 

[Abner]

Anybody tried the Rotosound Steve Harris flats in D-standard? 0.050, 0.075, 0.095, 0.110.

Their regular flats are pretty high tension, so think these might be ideal for downtuning.

Actually, looking on their website, I see their RS77 flats are offered in a heavy gauge, same as the Steve Harris set. Is it just the silk on the ends that's different?

 

[HaphAsSard]

Anybody tried the Rotosound Steve Harris flats in D-standard? 0.050, 0.075, 0.095, 0.110.

Their regular flats are pretty high tension, so think these might be ideal for downtuning.

Actually, looking on their website, I see their RS77 flats are offered in a heavy gauge, same as the Steve Harris set. Is it just the silk on the ends that's different?

According to Jason at FretNation, in addition to their different silk colour pattern, starting from late 2012 the Rotosound Jazz Bass 77 Steve Harris signature flatwounds (SH77) have been polished a little smoother than the standard Roto flats with the same, 50-75-95-110 gauges (RS77LE):
https://www.talkbass.com/search/35755460/
https://www.talkbass.com/search/35755467/

 

[Prodigus Filius]

According to Jason at FretNation, in addition to their different silk colour pattern, starting from late 2012 the Rotosound Jazz Bass 77 Steve Harris signature flatwounds (SH77) have been polished a little smoother than the standard Roto flats with the same, 50-75-95-110 gauges (RS77LE):
https://www.talkbass.com/search/35755460/
https://www.talkbass.com/search/35755467/

Good info. I wondered too why they were seemingly listed twice, one with the Harris name attached and the other without.

I've decided to buy a bunch of Chromes. Had two of them on my Mikro now for a bit and they are settled in nicely. The 132 for D gets a bit overly bouncy if you charge too hard. The 050 F seems about right feel wise. I dunno, I keep thinking of a strand of licorice when I play it. I still have two Dunlops on for the middle strings. They feel good even though downtuned. I actually find they blend in well between the outer Chromes. But I will put on the Chromes I have on order. I went hardcore and ordered virtually every gauge of Chrome singles. A couple for the Mikro, and some others for D on another bass. I also got some to fool around with C fifths on a long scale ( really only need the E string replaced if going there from E standard). Cost a few bucks, but a lot of versatility there for custom stuff. If I need a tweak it's in the drawer. Kind of looking at it like a string library. Saves buying a bunch of sets and endlessly trying out new brands. Be good if D'addario did a 115 in a Chrome though. 110 just squeaks in there tension wise, but 115 would be a tad better IMHO

 

[MirandM]

Yes, you are right about gauge/tension and stiffness not neccessarily coinciding. String material, core to wrap ratio can all lead to a stiffer feeling string, all things being equal, even if tension stats don't suggest it.. If I had a long scale, which I don't have, I would like to try the labella 0760M 52-110 DTF's in D. From what I read about them, a lot of people find them too stiff in E standard, but in D they are really good. Have you tried that set yourself?
Lowering tension, either by downtuning or gauge selection is actually a good thing for bass guitars with necks or designs that render the bass prone to developing ski jumps from what I read.

Nope, I have the 760G and 760C, so I'm sorry I can't help you.
The nylons disappointed me, I expected a lot more of them which is probably why I didn't look any further on LaBella.

 

[Prodigus Filius]

Nope, I have the 760G and 760C, so I'm sorry I can't help you.
The nylons disappointed me, I expected a lot more of them which is probably why I didn't look any further on LaBella.

You might have saved yourself from wrestling with fencing wire with the Jamerson set. But in another thread a poster said Pino Palladino has used them for D tuning and it is mentioned in this thread too D Standard Club (DGCF)

 

[MirandM]

...(I also think that just because a set of strings sound great on one bass, it doesn't mean they will sound great on the next bass, even if they came off the factory floor the same day with consecutive serial numbers (but then again, they might). Have to find the right strings for each bass, and that means you have to try them all. Or least a whole bunch.)

This is exactly what I always say.
I once bought a Gear4Music P-bass (yes, I know, it's cheap), sounded awful, changed the strings to various others I had in my string box, no dice.
Until I put on a set of DR Black Beauties, bass came alive instantly, changed it completely to a playable instrument.

Since I build my own basses I also must say that it's also the combination of pup's and strings (apart from the obvious setup) that really works or not. Even the nut (plastic, carbon, bone, copper or steel) can influence the tone of your strings. I've had basses with plastic nuts that clearly muted the zing of the F string, changing that to copper or steel made a huge difference.

 

[Abner]

You might have saved yourself from wrestling with fencing wire with the Jamerson set. But in another thread a poster said Pino Palladino has used them for D tuning and it is mentioned in this thread too D Standard Club (DGCF)

Hmmmm... guess what thread this is. Also, check post #9 on the first page of this thread. (Not that I'm Pino, or anything like that...)

And no wrestling required with them tuned down a whole tone. At least I don't think so, and I'm getting to be an old fart with tired, sore fingers.

 

[Abner]

According to Jason at FretNation, in addition to their different silk colour pattern, starting from late 2012 the Rotosound Jazz Bass 77 Steve Harris signature flatwounds (SH77) have been polished a little smoother than the standard Roto flats with the same, 50-75-95-110 gauges (RS77LE):
https://www.talkbass.com/search/35755460/
https://www.talkbass.com/search/35755467/

So the only difference is the silk and some polishing? That hardly seems worth the effort. At least with the LaBella Original '54s they have slightly different construction than their regular DTFs.

(Oh... and maybe just me and my PC, but I couldn't get either of those search links to work for me.)