Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
de afwerking mk3-6 - A build diary.
- Thread starter blablas
- Start date
Hopkins
Commercial User
The build is looking great, but can you explain to me what "de afwerking" is? The thread title is confusing me 
"de afwerking" sort of means "the finishing touch" in Dutch, almost everything I make is done under that name.
Hopkins
Commercial User
Connected the holes, or in other words sawed out the inside of the body, also defined the back cover and sawed this as well.
Sanded smooth the sides that will be visible trough the sound holes.
Top roughly sawed into shape.
Last edited:
The knobs are finished.
Zebra wood, 3 ply birch and a walnut top.
I always hate making these things at the end of the build, that's why I try do them as soon as possible.
Last edited:
(This small build diary was done before in Dutch as part of the diary about my previous build)
The rough work
A piece of wood
(A leftover piece from the body in this case)
A set of hole saws
(| needed two sizes)
I clamp this piece of wood on top of the table of my milling machine (at work) and saw out the holes (not all the way through).
Sawing of the knobs of the bottom with a bandsaw gives this
and this
Now I can saw of the knobs to the proper and identical length.
And we've got some rough cut knobs.
Finishing the knobs on the lathe
Drilling a hole with a diameter of 4.2 millimeters and a depth of 15 millimeters:
Tapping a M5 thread and just flattening the bottom end:
Clamping up my special tool:
Screwing the knob on my special tool and after that machining the outside:
Putting on a radius at the edge and after that sanding the knob up to a grain of 600:
The side of the knobs that's in sight is done:
Drilling a hole with the proper diameter for the pot shaft:
Machining out a chamber for the nut of the pot:
Drilling a hole with a diameter of 2.4 millimeters in the side:
Tapping a M3 tread in this hole:
Put some M3 screws in these holes and were done:
What still needs to be done is putting on six layers of Danish oil.
And a last minute correction that needed to be done when I was assembling the bass
It was a nice idea to make a M3 thread in these knobs, but alder is not strong enough for this thread and it came out when tightening the screws.
The solution:
Drilling out a bigger hole and gluing in a brass insert with the correct inner diameter, drilling trough the M3 hole and tapping the tread in the brass insert.
And were done!!
The rough work
A piece of wood
(A leftover piece from the body in this case)
A set of hole saws
(| needed two sizes)
I clamp this piece of wood on top of the table of my milling machine (at work) and saw out the holes (not all the way through).
Sawing of the knobs of the bottom with a bandsaw gives this
and this
Now I can saw of the knobs to the proper and identical length.
And we've got some rough cut knobs.
Finishing the knobs on the lathe
Drilling a hole with a diameter of 4.2 millimeters and a depth of 15 millimeters:
Tapping a M5 thread and just flattening the bottom end:
Clamping up my special tool:
Screwing the knob on my special tool and after that machining the outside:
Putting on a radius at the edge and after that sanding the knob up to a grain of 600:
The side of the knobs that's in sight is done:
Drilling a hole with the proper diameter for the pot shaft:
Machining out a chamber for the nut of the pot:
Drilling a hole with a diameter of 2.4 millimeters in the side:
Tapping a M3 tread in this hole:
Put some M3 screws in these holes and were done:
What still needs to be done is putting on six layers of Danish oil.
And a last minute correction that needed to be done when I was assembling the bass
It was a nice idea to make a M3 thread in these knobs, but alder is not strong enough for this thread and it came out when tightening the screws.
The solution:
Drilling out a bigger hole and gluing in a brass insert with the correct inner diameter, drilling trough the M3 hole and tapping the tread in the brass insert.
And were done!!
Last edited:
Good job!
Very interesting project!
What is the thickness of the back, and of the top?
Will you put some fan bracing or not?
Very interesting project!
What is the thickness of the back, and of the top?
Will you put some fan bracing or not?
The back and front are approximately 6 millimeters thick.
No fancy bracing is planned, I'm going to glue a block of wood between the front and back where the bridge will come, some small blocks to the back to mount the pickups on and a bracing bar along the length of the body where the two halves meet.
No fancy bracing is planned, I'm going to glue a block of wood between the front and back where the bridge will come, some small blocks to the back to mount the pickups on and a bracing bar along the length of the body where the two halves meet.
