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de afwerking mk3-6 - A build diary.

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by blablas, Jun 15, 2013.


  1. RedMoses

    RedMoses

    Jul 4, 2012
    NYC
    Looks like this is going to be a really nice build, Sub'd!
     
  2. QMvU7qi.
    leveled the fingerboard.

    L5qE77E.
    1VH1OOq.
    Headstock-volute transition roughly prefinished.
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2017
  3. kYED9Ph.
    Routed the headstock-fingerboard transition and the groove for the nut.
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2017
  4. PHWqosp.
    DwJ8Xh7.
    Done some rough neck shaping today and drilled the holes for the tuners.
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2017
  5. gL6RBQb.
    Made a set of truss rod covers on the laser engraving machine (at work).
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2017
  6. lbridenstine

    lbridenstine

    Jun 25, 2012
    MI
    Those look good. Is this a lefty?
     
  7. Yes, that's the natural way to play (for me). :smug:
     
  8. I see I forgot to mention that in the specs. in my first post, however as far as building is concerned it doesn't matter if it's a lefty or a righty.
     
  9. lbridenstine

    lbridenstine

    Jun 25, 2012
    MI
    You're right. I didn't even notice. It's a very symmetrical build aside from the tip of the headstock and the control cavity placement, which now I notice are both made to be on a lefty. :)
     
  10. tjT36yU.
    Leveling and straightening the sides of the neck.

    MAnWTpi.
    Shaping the headstock and headstock-neck transition.

    And the final result for todays work.
    f2f42Qv.
    NwqyKic.
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2017
  11. CarbonTom

    CarbonTom

    Aug 23, 2013
    This may have been already answered, or an obvious answer to the luthiers, but why do you have those two segments cut out on the neck? Do they help when it comes to shaping? Is it to help the wood settle and keep from shifting before shaping? Just curious. Looks great though! Cant wait to see it take further form!
     
  12. I don't know if it is obvious for luthiers but for me as a metal machinist they are, I made these segments while leveling the area for the neck heel, they give me a level and parallel surface in relation to the front of the neck, and that makes life a lot easier when clamping the neck down for further work on it, once I start shaping the back of the neck they will sawed of with the other abundance wood.
     
  13. C8ItXq8.
    Cutting fret slots.

    hTSHUta.
    And finished.
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2017
  14. 1QFAsgw.
    Drilling the position markers with the use of a drilling template.

    zVOb95C.
    And glued in the markers, normally I use aluminum rod for these but for this bass I wanted wooden ones, I used toothpicks for them because they have the right diameter.
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2017
  15. Bisounourse

    Bisounourse

    Jun 21, 2012
    Gent, Belgium
    Nice build. And subbed (van een iets verdere buurman).
     
  16. DN6uhDy.
    Position markers are in place.

    I've been busy sanding the body today, but it's a bit useless to place pictures of that.
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2017
  17. bc6BksT.
    Machined two radiuses at the end of the neck.

    76iP95w.
    Machined the neckpocket and pickup holes.

    oKLGPoN.
    And the coming together of the two (not yet glued), the neck has a perfect fit in the body and needs to be pushed in with a reasonable amount of force and already stays in place by the way it fits.
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2017
  18. Sanded the fingerboard up to grain 600.
    wDNNUP3.
    Hammering in the frets.

    xrdL25N.
    And done.

    Now I still need to glue the fret ends, then finish the sides and level the frets, crowning and polishing will be done after the neck is fully shaped.
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2017
  19. 6stringpanda

    6stringpanda

    Aug 9, 2013
    Your work is beautiful!

    Any more pics of those headless basses?
     
  20. There are few more on my homepage if you click on the photos.
     

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