Did I get a dud Stingray Ray4?

[wallypip]

Thanks everyone for the advice. This is the first time I have bought a bass or guitar online, so I was naive concerning the zero setup. All the explanations concerning the tension when the e string broke make perfect sense.

I've actually found another reason why this bass doesn't fit my needs that isn't due to setup or quality issues, so I plan to return it anyway. Thanks again.

 

[mcnach]

I was looking for a knock-around bass that I can keep at work and use for practice. I came across the Sterling Stingray Ray4 on Musicians Friend's stupid deal for $249. All the reviews said that it's a solid build, good playing bass and you get what you pay for with the tone. Sounded perfect for my needs.

It arrived yesterday and was unplayable out of the box. On first tuning, the E string snapped and unraveled. No biggie on that because I would probably put better strings on it anyway. Once the other three strings are tuned, you can't even make a tone on the first three frets and there is significant fret buzz up to the middle if the neck. I raised the action at the saddle pretty high and now I can get tone across the fret board, but still with significant buzz. I believe the neck may be backbowed. I don't feel like I should have to make truss rod adjustments or major saddle adjustments to a new bass.

Also annoying is that I can feel the sharp edges of the frets on the sides of the fret board. I can live with that with a cheap bass, but I think this should be a little better quality.

My question to anyone who is familiar with this bass is should I exchange it for another one? If I just got a bad one I wouldn't mind trying another one. If this is typical, I'm just going to ask for my money back.

Thanks in advance!

You're complaining about the setup, really. Just set it up to your liking and play the thing.

Expecting a bass bought unseen to be set up to your preference is a tall order, and even more so on a budget instrument. If you get it replaced, the next one might be the same, or worse, or it might be just right, who knows?

Just set it up, sand off the sharp fret edges a little bit and enjoy playing it.

 

[FRoss6788]

You should always expect some kind of setup upon receiving a new bass, especially in the dead of winter.

Any bass can have fret sprout, my Lakland 55-01 had a significant amount, have it filed down and it won't be a problem.

$249 is a dirt cheap bass, period. It may still be a good player once you set it up, but don't kid yourself, pretty hard to find much cheaper than that.

 

[mcnach]

I would expect that a setup would be required whenever receiving a new bass that went through all the handling, packing, shipping travels and climate changes it has to endure. Fender manuals mention that your new bass may need a setup for these reasons.

The truss rod and neck relief should be adjusted first, followed by a saddle adjustment to set the action and then intonate. All done with 4 new strings in tune.

Yup, starting by rising the saddles in order to increase the action is not really the best approach.

 

[DWBass]

Send it back and get a Glarry.

 

[jd56hawk]

I thought only the $1,000 Ray 34 and 35 basses were constantly coming up short.
Are people having problems with the budget-line Sterlings, too?

 

[mikeswals]

Wrong. You always have to make truss rod adjustments on a new bass to fit your need. Once it gets to your climate, the neck with acclimate, and you need to adjust it accordingly. And anytime you chamge brands of string, you will need to set the truss adjustment because all companies have slightly different tension.
And as mentioned, with the missing string, yea the neck will change tension.

 

[-Stingray]

When the E string broke, you lost a bunch of string tension and and whatever setup was done on the bass went out the window. I don't expect it was perfect to start with but you can't just tune up the remaining 3 strings and expect it to function properly.

I came here to say this. Here's what you need to do:

1. Buy a decent set of strings
2. Restring & play.
3. If you're not happy take it to a shop for a setup.
4. Optional: Learn to do a setup yourself. It's brain dead simple unless you have uneven frets.

I have 2 Sterlings. They are fine. They both needed a setup though. Pretty much any instrument you buy will need a setup.

 

[HowieD72]

Never had an issue with any of my SBMM basses and I've owned a few.
The local shop I bought a new one from said 'take it and play it for a week then bring it back for a setup". Never did. It played fine as is and even though the action was a bit high for my taste, it was ideal for my daughter to learn on.
I've even changed strings on all of them without any problems. Didn't need any adjustment.
I've read a lot of issues with Sterling basses in the U.S. Maybe all the good ones got sent here to New Zealand?

 

[Seth DuSith]

Thanks everyone for the advice. This is the first time I have bought a bass or guitar online, so I was naive concerning the zero setup. All the explanations concerning the tension when the e string broke make perfect sense.

I've actually found another reason why this bass doesn't fit my needs that isn't due to setup or quality issues, so I plan to return it anyway. Thanks again.

Well if it doesn't suit your needs, then it's understandable you wouldn't want to keep it. Personally, I like a variety of basses, especially ones I normally wouldn't play. I like variety, it might inspire you to write differently

Never had an issue with any of my SBMM basses and I've owned a few.

The local shop I bought a new one from said 'take it and play it for a week then bring it back for a setup". Never did. It played fine as is and even though the action was a bit high for my taste, it was ideal for my daughter to learn on.

I've even changed strings on all of them without any problems. Didn't need any adjustment.

I've read a lot of issues with Sterling basses in the U.S. Maybe all the good ones got sent here to New Zealand?

Us Canadians have some decent ones. Or at least, I have a decent one. But I feel like a lot of complaints tend to come from people who don't set up their own basses. When you do your own maintenance, you live under the assumption it's not set up to your liking, and don't judge the instrument based on how you receive it

Or at least I do. I live under the assumption everything I buy is something I'm going to have to customize to my liking

 

[JC BASS 91]

I expect EVERY bass I buy will need to be setup. All of them. Whether they cost me $100, or $3000. After playing for thirty years and trying numerous basses in a variety of stores around the world, I have learned one very important thing...a setup is almost always required. Are there occasions when you get lucky and they don't need a setup? Sure. But then you put your preferred strings on and BAM...gotta do a setup because the strings from the factory are a different gauge than what you prefer.

Sounds like the OP just needs a truss rod tweak as part of a normal setup and a sanding sponge down the edge of the fretboard. Expecting not to have to do those items on a sub-$500 bass, new or not, is rather unrealistic in my opinion.

 

[cxc]

Aside from adjustments mentioned above, I had to lower the pickup on mine to get good sound. Highly recommend looking into this if you are not happy with out of box tone - made all the difference for me. With setup, mine plays/feels very well for a sub-$300 bass.

 

[lowendblues]

Learning to do your own setups is good therapy. I just love working on someone's bass for about a half an hour, handing back to them, and watch the expression on there face when they find out how good a proper setup can be.

 

[JeezyMcNuggles]

I was looking for a knock-around bass that I can keep at work and use for practice. I came across the Sterling Stingray Ray4 on Musicians Friend's stupid deal for $249. All the reviews said that it's a solid build, good playing bass and you get what you pay for with the tone. Sounded perfect for my needs.

It arrived yesterday and was unplayable out of the box. On first tuning, the E string snapped and unraveled. No biggie on that because I would probably put better strings on it anyway. Once the other three strings are tuned, you can't even make a tone on the first three frets and there is significant fret buzz up to the middle if the neck. I raised the action at the saddle pretty high and now I can get tone across the fret board, but still with significant buzz. I believe the neck may be backbowed. I don't feel like I should have to make truss rod adjustments or major saddle adjustments to a new bass.

Also annoying is that I can feel the sharp edges of the frets on the sides of the fret board. I can live with that with a cheap bass, but I think this should be a little better quality.

My question to anyone who is familiar with this bass is should I exchange it for another one? If I just got a bad one I wouldn't mind trying another one. If this is typical, I'm just going to ask for my money back.

Thanks in advance!

Set it up, put a new pickup in it.

The ray4 is a good bass for the money. But, just like everything, they need to be set up for your personal playing needs. And, the pickup and hardware suck, just like every entry level guitar.

It'll be just fine with a simple set up. It'll rock with a setup and a new pickup.

 

[FirewalZ]

I find that nearly any new bass I’ve gotten has benefited from an initial visit to a Luthier….whether I’ve paid $200 or $2000. So it’s not at all a surprise that it would need the frets leveled and cleaned up a bit, it’s somewhat to be expected.

 

[Killing Floor]

I wouldn’t call it a dud. If it’s a $250 remake of a $2,700 bass you’ve got to have tempered expectations. It should be able to be made playable. If not, return it.

 

[Nebadon2000]

Didn't OP put this to rest on post 21

 

[VeryTallBassist]

With only 3 strings (and not the E of all strings), you've got significantly less tension on the neck than there's supposed to be. It makes sense that it is a little bit back bowed right now. Slap a new set of strings on it and set it up. My guess is the neck will mostly straighten out with the right amount of tension on it. As to the fret edges, fret sprout can happen even on expensive basses. Watch some YouTube videos on how to file them down and have at it. Makes all the difference in the world.

 

[Tim Skaggs]

I don't feel like I should have to make truss rod adjustments or major saddle adjustments to a new bass.

I would expect a truss & saddle adjustment
on any bass at any price. We don’t all play the same setup on an instrument, and the range from very low action to very high action is significant.

Your new bass probably had no actual setup at all other than assembly. The truss rod on EB and Sterling basses are very easy access and easy to adjust. Start there.

 

[GreyBeard]

One of my biggest disappointments was a Ray35 I got from GC last summer. It was a purple sparkle with all black hardware. All of the tuners stripped out upon 1st tuning and the truss rod was stuck. I have used American Ernie Ball basses for years and never had a problem. The new Sterling line has been a big disappointment for me.