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Dingwall Owners Club

Thanks, I appreciate the help. Any idea what makes the Afterburner series different than...say the Z series?

There's a bunch of differences, but the main stuff is the difference in body shape(I happen to prefer the Afterburner body shape), the body woods(Zs are dual density, ABs are ash, alder, or walnut), and the pickups(Zs get the Super Fatty's, ABs get the FDVs). Dingwall will put the same electronics in all the basses(except Dbirds), so that's not a big deal. There's some other stuff, but I think those are the highlights.

I've got 4 Afterburners on order. I really like Afterburners. Lol!
 
...and the pickups(Zs get the Super Fatty's, ABs get the FDVs)

Slight correction: Most (virtually all?) Canadian basses are shipping with the FDV's by default unless the buyer specifically requests something different. Z3 buyers should be aware that there is such a strong magnetic pull from the three FDV's that the string oscillation pattern is affected. This manifests as a "beating" sound when playing at or above the 15th fret on the B and E strings. Lowering the pickups reduces the issue a little, but does not make it go away. The only way to completely avoid the issue is to avoid playing above the 15th fret on the B and E strings.
 
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Thanks, I appreciate the help. Any idea what makes the Afterburner series different than...say the Z series?
You are just going to have to do a bit of research, but in general, I would say one can absolutely tell they have the same DNA even if they are different basses. The thing is, with the amount of customization that is available, one could have an identical physical Dingwall but with different sounds. So what happens is, even comparing the same basic model, depending on pickups, pre-amp, neck/body wood differential, there can be quite the smorgasbord of tonality as well as looks choice. But both basses have the optimized fan fret design, so they will also have a lot similar going on as well the differential.
 
There's a bunch of differences, but the main stuff is the difference in body shape(I happen to prefer the Afterburner body shape), the body woods(Zs are dual density, ABs are ash, alder, or walnut), and the pickups(Zs get the Super Fatty's, ABs get the FDVs). Dingwall will put the same electronics in all the basses(except Dbirds), so that's not a big deal. There's some other stuff, but I think those are the highlights.

I've got 4 Afterburners on order. I really like Afterburners. Lol!
I posted photos comparing the backs of my AB and Z3 awhile ago. From that view you can see that the necks are attached much differently, and most importantly in my opinion, you can see the four anchor screws that attached the recessed Z3 bridge to the body. This results in a noticeable increase in sustain and clarity to the Z3 IMO.
 
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I posted photos comparing the backs of my AB and Z3 awhile ago. From that view you can see that the necks are attached much differently, and most importantly in my opinion, you can see the four anchor screws that attached the recessed Z3 bridge to the body. This results in a noticeable increase in sustain and clarity to the Z3 IMO.
I posted photos comparing the backs of my AB and Z3 awhile ago. From that view you can see that the necks are attached much differently, and most importantly in my opinion, you can see the four anchor screws that attached the recessed Z3 bridge to the body. This results in a noticeable increase in sustain and clarity to the Z3 IMO.
I posted photos comparing the backs of my AB and Z3 awhile ago. From that view you can see that the necks are attached much differently, and most importantly in my opinion, you can see the four anchor screws that attached the recessed Z3 bridge to the body. This results in a noticeable increase in sustain and clarity to the Z3 IMO.
I noticed the Maple neck AB with Glock was actually, to me, quite close to the clarity of the Z3. I do personally like the Z neck a lot, and if choosing I go by neck feel as much as anything. But there is something also to be said about the ABII tone. The ABHS we had was also a bit different. And the ABZ as well; they all have their nuances.
 
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Here is the Z3-AB back comparison photo I referenced above (my AB neck is wider because it is a 6 string)...

Z3 and AB comparing.jpg
 
Quick question for Super owners. Can I use standard (non multi scale) long scale strings on my Super P 4 string? In this case, DR Hi Beams?
I don't use the high beams but I have been told by customers that the DR Pure Blues fit so they probably do - hopefully someone who uses them will chime in.
 
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Pretty much any standard scale E-C set works on a Super 4 string.

I’ve run Dr Lowriders, Hellborgs, and Pure Blues. TI jazz flats 344.

If I recall correctly, the E string is 34 1/4”.

The Super five strings are a little trickier because the winding post on the B string is so close to the nut, but the DR and TI’s worked on my SP 5.

Jason at Bassstringsonline.com would know for sure. And likely have the best deal. I think sunbeams are on sale just now.
 
Slight correction: Most (virtually all?) Canadian basses are shipping with the FDV's by default unless the buyer specifically requests something different. Z3 buyers should be aware that there is such a strong magnetic pull from the three FDV's that the string oscillation pattern is affected. This manifests as a "beating" sound when playing at or above the 15th fret on the B and E strings. Lowering the pickups reduces the issue a little, but does not make it go away. The only way to completely avoid the issue is to avoid playing above the 15th fret on the B and E strings.

First I've heard of this...
 
My ABZ5 has FDV pickups and does not have the issue either. All three of my Z3's have FDV pickups, and all three have the issue. Sheldon tested and confirmed the same observations. (All Z3s in the shop had the issue and all ABs did not.) He also tested with FD3 pickups, and they don't have the issue.
When I first heard it, I was playing a chord and thought the intonation was out. Then I discovered it was happening playing a single note and muting all other strings, but only on the E and B strings, and only above the 15th fret. I guess it is because the string gets too close to the magnetic field because of the angle. I can upload a video later if interested. The issue the issue is easily observed on a tuner, and you can hear it just playing the bass and put in your ear against the body, without even plugging it in. It is not too often you need to play above the 15th fret on the E string or the B string, so the issue may not be an issue to most people. But it is worth considering