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Dingwall Owners Club

#26,641
NaH said:
Vinyl can be made in many thicknesses.
Click to expand...

Sure, but from the pictures it clearly isn't very thick.

dbird-standard-blue_purple-pau-ferro-body-angle-2-e.jpg
 
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#26,649
dimitrio said:
Hi guys, a new happy ABII owner here :) Totally amazed with a bass and photos will follow, but I just wanted to ask if you guys can help figure out one thing that puzzles me. I think it has nothing to do with bass itself, but with the strings. The tapered B (and tapered E to much smaller extent) is having strange rattling sound when played a bit more aggressively. After analyzing all the things, I am convinced it is the taper itself that causes it. Is very noticeable with Dingwall strings, less prominent with Kalium, and actually not heard at all with original strings I received the bass (very dark "dead" Kalium's I think). This rattling almost disappears but still heard when playing string fretted, but most heard on open string. It is not the nut profile or break angle for sure. I also had identical experience long time ago with Fender strings on another bass. First set rattled, but the next one did not (the set was identical, bought a second set to confirm that the problem was in faulty bad quality taper).

What could be the solution? Only non-tapered strings? Would the bridge adjustment length be enough? Is there recomendation on which non-taper strings to use? I was thinking to try Ernie Balls. Or maybe you can advise something with Dingwall strings? Otherwise I really love the sound and would regret to avoid using Dingwall strings.
Or is it better to open a new thread for this question? thanks in advance)
Click to expand...

So it was a production faulty Dingwall B string. I ordered an extra Dingwall B single string, and it was perfect from the start. Kalium as well after a bit settling in became totally OK. Thanks for everyone for feedback)))
 
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#26,651
dimitrio said:
So it was a production faulty Dingwall B string. I ordered an extra Dingwall B single string, and it was perfect from the start. Kalium as well after a bit settling in became totally OK. Thanks for everyone for feedback)))
Click to expand...
It is possible that it was a faulty string, but you can also ruin a good string if you cut it before doing the 90 degree bend at the end. It is not guaranteed that this will ruin the string, but there is a decent chance it will. So always do the 90 degree bend with needle-nose pliers at the tuner end before cutting the string, then cut so that you leave about three quarters of an inch after the bend, or whatever is the appropriate length to stick down in the hole of your tuner.
 
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#26,652
xnewyorka said:
It is possible that it was a faulty string, but you can also ruin a good string if you cut it before doing the 90 degree bend at the end. It is not guaranteed that this will ruin the string, but there is a decent chance it will. So always do the 90 degree bend with needle-nose pliers at the tuner end before cutting the string, then cut so that you leave about three quarters of an inch after the bend, or whatever is the appropriate length to stick down in the hole of your tuner.
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Like this, haha:
D02D4587-5C62-4DE9-96E6-765C2FB7FF65.png


The string had been put on and taken off a few too many times, I think.
 
#26,653
xnewyorka said:
It is possible that it was a faulty string, but you can also ruin a good string if you cut it before doing the 90 degree bend at the end. It is not guaranteed that this will ruin the string, but there is a decent chance it will. So always do the 90 degree bend with needle-nose pliers at the tuner end before cutting the string, then cut so that you leave about three quarters of an inch after the bend, or whatever is the appropriate length to stick down in the hole of your tuner.
Click to expand...

Good point here, I will keep that in mind. Yet I am sure in my case the problem was on the bridge side (where taper is). Why I think so: 1 - the rattling was still heard when fretting 2 - rattling almost disappeared when I moved bridge block as much towards the taper as I could, revealing that the rattling source was somewhere where taper ends.
 
#26,654
how does one go about ordering one of these even (not that i'm ready to buy one just curious)? I checked their website and the only option seems to be to email them?

So what would i do just email them like "can you put me on the waitlist for an orange NG2 6 string" or what?
 
#26,655
symbolic_acts said:
how does one go about ordering one of these even (not that i'm ready to buy one just curious)? I checked their website and the only option seems to be to email them?

So what would i do just email them like "can you put me on the waitlist for an orange NG2 6 string" or what?
Click to expand...

Go to the dealer section of the website and find which one is nearest you. Or order from a Dingwall dealer with a good online presence like ShoMe Music or Bass Central. Some dealers have unsold preorders - if you find one with a bass you want, it could save you a lot of wait time.

Unfortunately I don't believe Orange NG2s are continuing production. The current colors are black, white, blue and purple. I believe aquamarine sparkle and the limited edition pink swirl will be in a future batch, along with the silver Darkglass edition (which is 5 string only IIRC).
 
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#26,656
dimitrio said:
Good point here, I will keep that in mind. Yet I am sure in my case the problem was on the bridge side (where taper is). Why I think so: 1 - the rattling was still heard when fretting 2 - rattling almost disappeared when I moved bridge block as much towards the taper as I could, revealing that the rattling source was somewhere where taper ends.
Click to expand...
Understood. Just so you are aware of what happens if you cut before bending, the winding becomes free floating and disconnected from the core, and so the whole thing slides and loosens a little bit. So you will most likely notice the effect at the bridge end, although it can manifest anywhere along the length of the string. Just wanted you to be aware that the symptom you experienced definitely could be caused by cutting before bending. I'm not saying I guarantee that it was, but it could have been. There will never be any way to know for sure. At least you hopefully didn't waste too much time before discovering the problem and remedying it.
 
#26,657
xnewyorka said:
Understood. Just so you are aware of what happens if you cut before bending, the winding becomes free floating and disconnected from the core, and so the whole thing slides and loosens a little bit. So you will most likely notice the effect at the bridge end, although it can manifest anywhere along the length of the string. Just wanted you to be aware that the symptom you experienced definitely could be caused by cutting before bending. I'm not saying I guarantee that it was, but it could have been. There will never be any way to know for sure. At least you hopefully didn't waste too much time before discovering the problem and remedying it.
Click to expand...

Yes, I understand this, but I actually now wonder how pre-bending would solve it )))) it will still get loose no matter at what point of time the 90-angle bend is made :D
But frankly speaking I doubt it has so much of effect... I cut not so much of the string.. and think about this, if the winding gets loose so easily, it should get loose without any cutting, just right from the factory - anyway the end of the string, no matter how long, has a cut winding.
 
#26,660
Yeah i was pretty convinced my next bass was going to be a strandberg, but it doesn't seem like theyre going to produce 6 strings, and they're insanely expensive.

i played a 4 string NG2 at The Music Zoo in NY the other day and damn did it feel great under the fingers and look hella cool too. The only thing missing on it for me is headless, other than that its pretty much perfect for a production model made in china

the fanning might be a bit more than id like too (i prefer a milder fan like the strandbergs have) but id get used to it i reckon
 
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