I don’t really have any good, “full body” shots but
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Ah yes! I feel we have seen this classy old gal before!
Noice
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I don’t really have any good, “full body” shots but
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Years ago I wiped the strings down with alcohol and set the slightly moist cloth over the headstock which reacted with the signature...it kind of went away slowly...it’s still visible under the right light...someday I’ll make it up North and get a fresh one I hope!Mine still has a signature, but has seen more impacts.
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Same-ish body wear:
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Years ago I wiped the strings down with alcohol and set the slightly moist cloth over the headstock which reacted with the signature...it kind of went away slowly...it’s still visible under the right light...someday I’ll make it up North and get a fresh one I hope!
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Thanks for this Sheldon. They all sound great. Were they recorded using stainless steel strings?Invalid Link Removed
When I ordered my FD’s I originally planned on the FD-2..before they shipped he emailed me and said that the 3’s had just rolled out and he felt they were a better option....also got the BluEQ switch which I’ve mainly used as a “producer” switch over the years. I haven’t used it often but when I have it’s been to great effect.
Yea. Depending on the impedance loading(I suspect?)it definitely can have a way of “straightening the curves and flattening the hills” just a little bit.I actually loved the BluEQube on my old AB-1. It was great to drop back into the mix a bit for certain songs and didn't have any associated volume loss or anything.
Yea. Depending on the impedance loading(I suspect?)it definitely can have a way of “straightening the curves and flattening the hills” just a little bit.
Question for those who have ordered a canadian build:
How does the whole process go?
Spec the bass > go to the dealer > place the order > pay a deposit?
As with a lot of things in my bass playing life I sort of do things bass ackwards. I generally live with the switch engaged, it seems to work well with the mid-band on the OBP-3 pre.....again, I’m weird.That lil mid-cut just was just right for being a little less noticeable in the mix for some stuff. I used it for things that were a little more towards ballads and such.
Thanks! I was counting on 30-40%, but 50% is still manageable.That's about right. Be prepared to put 50% down on it. Go in with your best case spec list and you may have some back and forth. If you've got special wood choices, factor in some time looking at pictures of wood options.
Thanks! I was counting on 30-40%, but 50% is still manageable.
For "special requests" do i have to contact dingwall or the dealer? I'd just like to know if its possible to get a Nordstrand NP5 instead of the P-tone installed![]()
Thanks! I was counting on 30-40%, but 50% is still manageable.
For "special requests" do i have to contact dingwall or the dealer? I'd just like to know if its possible to get a Nordstrand NP5 instead of the P-tone installed![]()
Question for those who have ordered a canadian build:
How does the whole process go?
Spec the bass > go to the dealer > place the order > pay a deposit?
The deposit through Dingwall is 30% so expect to pay at least that. Dealers do vary though, I only had to put down 10% on my recent Super P order for example.
If you're going through a dealer then do everything through them, one point of communication is probably best. As for your pickup request, I think it's highly likely the answer will be no.
I know what you mean. If I could I would throw all the "bling" options, but in reality I don't really "need" themThat pretty much sums it up.
I think deposit is very dealer specific unless of course your going through Dingwall direct.
Dealer acts as a middle man from my experience on every detail of the build.
It may get confusing if the customer starts contacting Dingwall about random items during the process.
I’ve tried to avoid this as much as possible during my builds on the odd occasion I was told to contact Dingwall directly about a query. That maybe happened once.
My latest que I had the vision pretty much perfect and sent it in with an accompanying drawing to boot and yet still There was a few minor revisions required dependent on costs( not really clarified on price list) and options potentially not available.
Not to mention when I got the price back, I had to seriously consider what options are necessary and which I can live without.
Question for my fellow Dingwallers....
I have a beautiful 2012 Super J5 with a P front pickup, which I've owned since new.
I love it, but feel like a change. I am thinking about possibly changing the neck P pickup to a standard J+J pickup config.
It has:
2 band Glockenklang preamp
Dual P Neodymium pick up in the neck
FD4 in the bridge
I think I'd need:
- new pickguard
- replacement pickup (FD4?)
- 15 minutes of steady hands and good fortune given by the benevolent soldering gods.
Can anyone advise which pickup I would need?
Also, and maybe of most importance: Am I insane? Is this GAS causing me to meddle with things I should leave alone?
Thank you!

Do you know what size your bridge pickup is?
The older SJs have narrower pickups. Other than that your thinking is bang on.
Here are some pics of mine.
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