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Dingwall Owners Club

So, wait, how do you get the knobs off? The volume knob on my NG-3 is starting to stick. I was looking for the set screw and then I got confused and didn't want to break my bass, I kinda need it...

If the knobs are tricky to pull off, get two spoons and place them under the knobs. Use them as a lever and the knob will pop right off. Something with a super thin clear coat, like an ABZ, you may want to put some cloth under the spoons to protect the finish.
 
If the knobs are tricky to pull off, get two spoons and place them under the knobs. Use them as a lever and the knob will pop right off. Something with a super thin clear coat, like an ABZ, you may want to put some cloth under the spoons to protect the finish.

Or one of the old fashioned bottle/can openers

Phil, I suspect these guys may be kidding. At a minimum, I'd use cardboard or leather to protect the finish if trying spoons.
Just put on a latex glove and you should be able to grab it tightly and pull it straight off.
If the knob has skin oil on it that is making it slippery, put a small amount of rubbing alcohol on a rag and degrease the knob first.
You can cut a knob-sized hole in a piece of paper and slip it over the knob if you are afraid you won't be able to keep the alcohol off the finish.
 
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Yes - series wiring trades high-end for output
For passive pickups (which most are, including Dingwalls), there is a fixed amount of energy coming out of the pickups.
The wiring affects the overall frequency response of the system in approximately this way, not drawn to scale, and not drawn by an electrical engineer:
FreqResponseCurves.jpg
 
Phil, I suspect these guys may be kidding. At a minimum, I'd use cardboard or leather to protect the finish if trying spoons.
Just put on a latex glove and you should be able to grab it tightly and pull it straight off.
If the knob has skin oil on it that is making it slippery, put a small amount of rubbing alcohol on a rag and degrease the knob first.
You can cut a knob-sized hole in a piece of paper and slip it over the knob if you are afraid you won't be able to keep the alcohol off the finish.

Sorry to break your heart but the double spoon trick is a tried-and-tested professional method. It is far easier than trying to pull the knobs off. On a Combustion, the finish is more than durable enough to handle the pressure from the spoons.
 
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So, wait, how do you get the knobs off? The volume knob on my NG-3 is starting to stick. I was looking for the set screw and then I got confused and didn't want to break my bass, I kinda need it...
They just pull off if there is definitely no set screw.
If it’s sticking then check that it hasn’t been pushed down too far, they can bottom out against the body and feel like it’s sticking.
What Waltsdog said. My Bass and Mid knobs get that sticking feeling on occasion and it is because they are bottomed out and rubbing against the body. A little pull forward to make a gap at the base and it is all good. Do that.

Wish they all had set screws. I will replace them eventually.
 
I honestly don't remember them not having set screws.

Anyway. A rarity these days...had a regional outdoor gig the other night and just felt like taking this one on stage. Doesn't happen often so photographers took note.

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When the action is so low you don't need to put your thumb on the back of the neck:

jzps_root_shock-116.jpg


jzps_root_shock-114.jpg


...In all seriousness, while I love the Rastaburst and it will probably be included on my Viking funeral pyre when they send the boat downriver, I've kind of grown away from it live because the damn NG3 is so good. I found myself missing it even during the first 10 minutes of our 2 hour set. It was on hand, but I decided that I wouldn't get fussy and change out. I've really grown into the NG for what it does live and it's a credit to how great a bass it is even at 'entry level.'

And because sometimes you need to kneel to make the best noise...you really have to manhandle the Mantic Flex Pro to get the best sounds out of it...

jzps_root_shock-166.jpg


You can get a feel for the fEARful-Monique-M2500 on stage though. It allows us to have our backline tucked and still do 4 across the front without feeling like you're losing any volume or tone. The Twin next to it is my super-linear 135w 70's...it can get loud.
 

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I have a question for you experienced Dingwall owners.
Last week I had the pleasure of playing my first Dingwall and I think I'm sold.
I played an ABZ 5 string and an AB2 5 string, both played and sounded super.
I would like to know what you consider to be the difference in sound between an Afterburner 1 and 2.
I know the body and neck woods will be different but let's assume that the pickups, electronics and fingerboard will be equal.
Wich one would you prefer and why?
Differences for the Afterburner models:

ABZ - Swamp ash, open grain satin finish
AB1 - Alder, gloss finish
AB2 - Chambered walnut body, figured walnut top, gloss finish

So the real difference going to an AB2 is the chambered walnut body, which I wouldn't really care about and would rather save a few hundred dollars. I'm sure you could read up on chambered bodies somewhere, their site says it adds resonance. If you wanted to go natural, the figured walnut top would likely look much nicer than an alder body. That f hole looks pretty sweet too.

I've played all three, not side by side, but I would say they're all pretty darn similar. They list different weights on the site, ABZ at 8lbs to AB2 at 8.75, but it always varies from instrument to instrument and I'm sure there are AB2s<8lbs and ABZ>8.75lbs.
 
Sorry to break your heart but the double spoon trick is a tried-and-tested professional method. It is far easier than trying to pull the knobs off. On a Combustion, the finish is more than durable enough to handle the pressure from the spoons.
Makes total sense, provided the knob isn't glued on there.
I'm sure you are correct. But if it happened on my bass, I'd still try my best to get it off by hand first before grabbing any tool.

Having lots of experience taking apart nested aluminum tubing (radio antennas), I can say that the key in that situation is to pull straight. Any sort of angle and you are introducing additional friction. That would be why the spoons work beautifully, assuming you are pushing down on both with equal pressure.
 
Nice! What's for sale in this group of world-beating awesomeness??
Well, I actually listed 61 basses as a single lot, and would like someone to come with a truck and just take them all. The four Canadians are part of that 61. There are four potential buyers of the full collection of 61 who are working out numbers right now. But in case I don't have a meeting of the minds with any of them, I will be offering them up individually to the folks who contacted me.
I wish that TalkBass had an auction feature (improvement suggestion?) Since it doesn't, and I really don't want to use an auction site that siphons away the buyer's money, I had an idea of using TalkBass email and doing a group "auction email thread" for each instrument, with all interested buyers on the thread so everybody can see who is offering what, and give it 3 days and let it go to whoever wants it the most. Alternately, folks could just place their bids right in the classified ad. That would be interesting. I wonder if people would be OK doing that. I know I would.
 
Well, I actually listed 61 basses as a single lot, and would like someone to come with a truck and just take them all. The four Canadians are part of that 61. There are four potential buyers of the full collection of 61 who are working out numbers right now. But in case I don't have a meeting of the minds with any of them, I will be offering them up individually to the folks who contacted me.
I wish that TalkBass had an auction feature (improvement suggestion?) Since it doesn't, and I really don't want to use an auction site that siphons away the buyer's money, I had an idea of using TalkBass email and doing a group "auction email thread" for each instrument, with all interested buyers on the thread so everybody can see who is offering what, and give it 3 days and let it go to whoever wants it the most. Alternately, folks could just place their bids right in the classified ad. That would be interesting. I wonder if people would be OK doing that. I know I would.

Just letting you know I’m interested in the burst Z3.

Hopefully everything works out for you man, still loving that LM5 that you sold me few months back.
 
Well, I actually listed 61 basses as a single lot, and would like someone to come with a truck and just take them all. The four Canadians are part of that 61. There are four potential buyers of the full collection of 61 who are working out numbers right now. But in case I don't have a meeting of the minds with any of them, I will be offering them up individually to the folks who contacted me.
I wish that TalkBass had an auction feature (improvement suggestion?) Since it doesn't, and I really don't want to use an auction site that siphons away the buyer's money, I had an idea of using TalkBass email and doing a group "auction email thread" for each instrument, with all interested buyers on the thread so everybody can see who is offering what, and give it 3 days and let it go to whoever wants it the most. Alternately, folks could just place their bids right in the classified ad. That would be interesting. I wonder if people would be OK doing that. I know I would.

Best of luck with the sales! If something falls through on the white ab, I would be interested...
 
Best of luck with the sales! If something falls through on the white ab, I would be interested...
You mean this one?
Dingwall Z3
Dual Density swamp-ash body
Finished in Ducati Matte Pearl White
Wenge neck and Wenge fingerboard, 24 fret
White Pearloid Speedo bars and D 12th fret marker
Matching headstock, black hardware
Passive FDV pickups with a Darkglass Tone Capsule 3-band preamp, Rotary pickup selector.
Dingwall logo gigbag.
DucattiWhiteZ3.jpg
 

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