• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Dingwall Owners Club

This was it.

No longer available - Dingwall Z3

How’s your blue beauty working out?
Oh weird, still shows available on the facebook group. That's good haha, I don't need any temptations at all. EDIT: looks like it was removed from facebook in the last hour or so. :)

My Z3 is wonderful. Still really exploring what all it has to offer... Prima is still my #1 for my bands, but, that Z3 just slays as well. It's difficult picking which one to take sometimes.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: AB Nate
Oh weird, still shows available on the facebook group. That's good haha, I don't need any temptations at all. EDIT: looks like it was removed from facebook in the last hour or so. :)

My Z3 is wonderful. Still really exploring what all it has to offer... Prima is still my #1 for my bands, but, that Z3 just slays as well. It's difficult picking which one to take sometimes.
Glad to hear!

Sure is a beauty.

I list after Ryan’s (the one just mentioned above. Back when John had it.... and back when Jeff had it.....and still now. Lol. Pure greed though.
 
This just in. Went with an Indigoburst combustion 6/3 to play around with F# tuning. It’s pretty.

22E7BF9C-2FF6-4966-8D42-DC1BB3F7D4ED.jpeg
 
Last edited:
You can (for a slight upcharge) have Dingwall do the setup and put one of their custom string sets on it which I did.
Somewhere down the line I'd like to try a Dingwall that's has a professional F# treatment. I tried to do that with my NG-2 a while ago, and I wasn't a fan of the outcome.

My guitar player has been wanting to get his 8 string worked into the band, but I don't want to tune to F#. What we've figured out is me being in drop A, and him being in 7-string drop A with an E below all that, so EAEADGBE. We've written one song in this weird mix of tunings, and I quite like it!
 
Speaking of switches.....my NG3 has the D-Bird-Switch but I honestly want all the options. So I would order a 6-way switch and solder myself. I remember someone on here did it himself and he wanted to see if he has the chematics to do the job.
 
Last edited:
Bought this beauty from a very nice member here. I’ll leave it up to him to make himself known. ;) A complex deal, spanning three countries, but now I have the Bird here at home in Berlin! :)

Beautiful instrument, plays and sounds great! My first Dingwall. I quite like the all-three-pickups tone! I just need to set it up to where I like it, and then it’s coming to my next rehearsal.

Funny thing: My camera really wants to make the bass look blue. It’s really a deep green...

Invalid Link Removed

Invalid Link Removed

Invalid Link Removed
 
Bought this beauty from a very nice member here. I’ll leave it up to him to make himself known. ;) A complex deal, spanning three countries, but now I have the Bird here at home in Berlin! :)

Beautiful instrument, plays and sounds great! My first Dingwall. I quite like the all-three-pickups tone! I just need to set it up to where I like it, and then it’s coming to my next rehearsal.

Funny thing: My camera really wants to make the bass look blue. It’s really a deep green...

Invalid Link Removed

Invalid Link Removed

Invalid Link Removed

Glad it made its way to Germany safely, it’s definitely green haha
 
  • Like
Reactions: Taustin Powers
I almost went Z2 on the fretless but as I wanted the D bird switch option and I thought the “all 3 on” option would be fun to explore. It is.
Same as middle solo.
But my goto is B/M parallel which is kinda what I figured it would be... then there is switches to play with from there.
The funny thing is it actually crossed my mind pre build that having the 3rd pick up does make a great rest point so if nothing else it was an expensive ramp.

With that,

I wouldn’t change a thing about this beauty.
View attachment 3555964

I just noticed how the string balls attach to the bridge on the Z. How do you manage to install the strings without the risk of having a twist in them?

I wind the strings starting at the tuner and the ball positions just end up where they do to ensure no twist (SJ5, AB5, Combustion and all other basses).
 
I just noticed how the string balls attach to the bridge on the Z. How do you manage to install the strings without the risk of having a twist in them?

I wind the strings starting at the tuner and the ball positions just end up where they do to ensure no twist (SJ5, AB5, Combustion and all other basses).
I do this as well.
I’m pretty certain we’ve discussed this in the past but I guess not about this bridge specifically.

On this bridge I do exactly that and then when there is no slack left I install the string onto the peg minimizing any twist.
With that I will also try to compensate for that with a little counter twist before setting the ball end but only if it want to go naturally.

Added to this I try and stick to a string rotation of 1 around the tuner post.

On any bridge eventually that ball end will seat and you are left in the same scenario.

My best guess would be that is exactly why they moved away from this style.

This bridge almost makes beautiful sense.... aside from twist.

I’ve never had an issue with this style of bridge. I’ve had 2 I think.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Andyman001
I just noticed how the string balls attach to the bridge on the Z. How do you manage to install the strings without the risk of having a twist in them?

I wind the strings starting at the tuner and the ball positions just end up where they do to ensure no twist (SJ5, AB5, Combustion and all other basses).
My technique may be a little different from some. I put the ball end into the bridge and align it the way I want it, then I pull the string straight up to and across the tuner through the slot. Before starting, I align the slot so that it is straight in line with the string. (Actually I do that when loosening the tuners to take the old strings off.) Then I use a capo to hold the string at around the 8th fret. This keeps the ball end exactly where I had put it. After confirming the string has no twist, I measure one palm width past the tuner and put a 90 degree bend in the string using needle nose pliers. Then I use diagonal cutters to cut the string, leaving a length past the bend that is equal to the diameter of my thumb. Using my hand for the measurements makes the measurements easy, fast, and very consistent. Then I carefully place the end down into the hole in the tuner and wind it up, and it has no choice but to stay straight. Never had a problem with string twist doing it this way. YMMV as they say.
 
  • Like
Reactions: BassikBrad
Anytime I string a bass I get the ball ends even- because I have a little OCD.

Anyhoo, I haven't had issues with my Dingo, I just line it up, pull the string, place it where the tuner is, take pliers with the string pulled (no twist) and bend 90 degrees down and nip below the 90, with the tuner slot vertical I place the string in the slot and tune it up keeping that string tugged on- the first wrap is important, as long as you don't develop twist during that wrap, you should be fine. When I removed my strings for the pup replacement they popped out of the tuners without twisting- I did however put them back slightly off because I was anxious to try the new 3X kit.

I've been playing hours a week for practice/fun and 4 sets of church songs every week for the last 3 months.

Still perfect tone, tune and no dead strings or weird overtones- just BEEF.

I think the biggest problem is people cutting strings before you have the bend, I tried it once with a spare string and I actually saw the core move slightly.

I do like that capo trick, I have one for checking relief.
 
I don't put that much thought into when I change strings.
I pull the old string off, using it as a gauge for length of the new one. Trim accordingly.
Put the new one in the bridge -- on the Prima and Z, they have that little shaft to slide the end onto, the others don't.
Slide into and half around the turner, just making sure to not introduce any twisting when doing so. This is pretty easy to do, I believe. Just need to pay attention when doing it.
Wind up to pitch. I don't know why, but, I tune up a half step, then come back down to my tuning. I had some basses and strings before that this seemed to make the tuning more stable, and it's a practice that just stuck with me. Play for a few hours, check intonation and tuning, then all set.
 
I don't know why, but, I tune up a half step, then come back down to my tuning. I had some basses and strings before that this seemed to make the tuning more stable, and it's a practice that just stuck with me. Play for a few hours, check intonation and tuning, then all set.

I like how you say you don't know why you do something, and then you explain exactly why you do it. :) I do something similar. Once I get a string tuned somewhere in the ball park, I grab it and pull towards the bridge. This usually drops the tuning about half a step as I'm pulling any slack out of the windings on the post. I then tune up to pitch and I have no issues with staying in tune.
 
I like how you say you don't know why you do something, and then you explain exactly why you do it. :) I do something similar. Once I get a string tuned somewhere in the ball park, I grab it and pull towards the bridge. This usually drops the tuning about half a step as I'm pulling any slack out of the windings on the post. I then tune up to pitch and I have no issues with staying in tune.
I guess I was attempting to articulate that, I have a reason, but, that reason doesn't make a whole lot of sense haha.
 

Latest posts