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Dingwall Owners Club

I think as long as the thickest part of the string goes past the nut, it's not going to change the tone/balance.

It's whether the ball end is tapered or not... I assume.
Going to non tapered strings will of course require a bridge adjustment, I was thinking more of balanced tension. I wish I could recall what @Sheldon D. said about how it's preferable to use multiscale strings on his basses.
 
If you have spreadsheet skills and the maker lists the unit weight (UW) of their string, you can calculate tension at pitch for a custom set.

I did this with Kalium and got a set that feels perfect to me - enough tension, and all strings within 1-2 lbs of the same tension.

Other folks are used the the standard 45-65-85-105 and the resulting 20# difference in tension between E and D...
 
If you have spreadsheet skills and the maker lists the unit weight (UW) of their string, you can calculate tension at pitch for a custom set.

I did this with Kalium and got a set that feels perfect to me - enough tension, and all strings within 1-2 lbs of the same tension.

Other folks are used the the standard 45-65-85-105 and the resulting 20# difference in tension between E and D...
Isn't going the Kalium route an expensive alternative? Actually, nevermind. It's just me. I don't tune down (much). I have a great source for Dingwall strings, who's SS strings work great for me. This after being a died in the wool DR fan when I played Spectors. Hey, do whatever works for you and gives you the feel and tone you want. It's all good. :thumbsup:
 
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...I'm sure we all have our own string rituals. I've done the same stringing process for 25-30 years.

On my Dingwalls I measure strings by way of the tuners... 2x the span between tuners is my 'magic length', maybe a little shorter on the low B. It gives me about 2.5 wraps. I go through the same seating and stretching routine I've done forever, and generally ignore other 'how to string' advice since it's worked for me for years without fail and with great tuning stability.
 
Stupid question maybe but anyone else find it difficult to not make preamps saturate when playing aggressively on their dingwall ?
Mine is passive, yet with my SCR-DI (for instance) it's impossible to get a clean tone above 50% volume .. which is then not much to drive a power amp.
Same problem on a B7K (ultra v2).

I guess the way around that would be a preamp with separate gain and volume settings ?
 
Stupid question maybe but anyone else find it difficult to not make preamps saturate when playing aggressively on their dingwall ?
Mine is passive, yet with my SCR-DI (for instance) it's impossible to get a clean tone above 50% volume .. which is then not much to drive a power amp.
Same problem on a B7K (ultra v2).

I guess the way around that would be a preamp with separate gain and volume settings ?

For SCR-DI specifically have you tried the pad ?

If you take the back plate off there is a jumper inside for a 15db pad. That helps a lot with that Preamp.
I wish it was a button or switch on the outside of the unit.
 
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Stupid question maybe but anyone else find it difficult to not make preamps saturate when playing aggressively on their dingwall ?
Mine is passive, yet with my SCR-DI (for instance) it's impossible to get a clean tone above 50% volume .. which is then not much to drive a power amp.
Same problem on a B7K (ultra v2).

I guess the way around that would be a preamp with separate gain and volume settings ?
My SJ is the other way. Somehow it has very low output. I need to boost the output quite a bit
 

I asked this over on the Dingwall forum, but haven't gotten a reply. Seeing this bridge reminded me to ask here. I have a 1998 Prima with the same style of bridge as in this photograph, and the last time I restrung (with Peysons) had a heck of a time getting the ball ends over the posts. Does anyone know of any "post-less" replacement for the saddles? If I were have to replace the whole bridge, what would I look for? The saddles are screwed into a big metal plate that's set in a routed cavity in the body.
 
I asked this over on the Dingwall forum, but haven't gotten a reply. Seeing this bridge reminded me to ask here. I have a 1998 Prima with the same style of bridge as in this photograph, and the last time I restrung (with Peysons) had a heck of a time getting the ball ends over the posts. Does anyone know of any "post-less" replacement for the saddles? If I were have to replace the whole bridge, what would I look for? The saddles are screwed into a big metal plate that's set in a routed cavity in the body.

Have you asked the shop if the current bridge pieces will retrofit?
 
I asked this over on the Dingwall forum, but haven't gotten a reply. Seeing this bridge reminded me to ask here. I have a 1998 Prima with the same style of bridge as in this photograph, and the last time I restrung (with Peysons) had a heck of a time getting the ball ends over the posts. Does anyone know of any "post-less" replacement for the saddles? If I were have to replace the whole bridge, what would I look for? The saddles are screwed into a big metal plate that's set in a routed cavity in the body.
I haven't had any issues with Payson, Kalium, or Dingwall strings on my Prima or Z with that bridge. What part gives you issues, specifically? Curious if there's multiple versions of that bridge or something.
 
Have you asked the shop if the current bridge pieces will retrofit?

You mean the Dingwall shop? I posted on the forum, but I guess maybe I should email Jeff.

I haven't had any issues with Payson, Kalium, or Dingwall strings on my Prima or Z with that bridge. What part gives you issues, specifically? Curious if there's multiple versions of that bridge or something.

It was actually getting the ring over the post - it wouldn't fit. I've used Paysons before, as well as Kalium's.
 
You mean the Dingwall shop? I posted on the forum, but I guess maybe I should email Jeff.



It was actually getting the ring over the post - it wouldn't fit. I've used Paysons before, as well as Kalium's.

Yep. Hit them up directly. I know there were issues with some of the pins/string-ball mating in the past so I'm sure they'll know what's going on. It might be a matter of just getting new pins.
 

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