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Dingwall Owners Club

My Z3-6 has Darkglass Tone Capsule. My AB1-6 is passive but I added a series/parallel switch for both pickups. I have an AB2-5 with an Aguilar pre-amp and an SJ4 that was originally Aguilar but I recently put in a 2-band Glockenklang.
I’m curious how you would compare the 2 if they both had the DGTC.
From my perspective the FD3 are super modern BUT.... I also find the FDVs quite modern as well..... that said, I’ve only tried the FDVs with an accompanying DGTC...... yes I have tried them passive But honestly don’t stick there too long....... hmmm. And to counter that..... I suppose I can hear a bit O vintage in my latest build.

with Dingwall I have always strived for modern tones up until recently and of course...... it’s been an easy accomplishment.
With my currently project I’ve been trying to reign that in significantly, using the fretless and the maple Z with FD3s and a glockenklang. I dunno. Again, another factor is even the switching. I have the DB switch with my new FDVs and DGTC and find that the switch settings have a more vintage sound then the 3x switch..... so there is that too.

I think of the 4 I have they are all very different flavours and range quite a bit from extremely modern to trying hard to be vintage. Lol.
 
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I’d suggest rewiring your super fatties to series. This is easy and easily reversed if it doesn’t move you in the right direction.

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Simply connect green to black. You don’t have to remove the pups, it’s a ten minute job at the control plate. Insulate the connection with a bit of shrink. This will certainly move you in the “aggressive” direction.

I’m not sure how I’d describe “modern” but with the glock preamp, there’s plenty of hi fi available. If it’s modern heavy tone you are after, the Darkglass alpha omega ultra is sweet. I loved the clean eq boost. It does super heavy aggressive sounds as well.

Next stop would be the P pup from Dingwall.

What kind of compression are you running?
 
I’d request a substantial refund to repair the finish around the nut as well. That’s a major piss off if it was advertised as mint. Not to mention even if it wasn’t, that should have been clearly shown.
I’d be more inclined to return it.
poopy bro. :banghead::rage::mad:
These days, what people consider mint is deplorable, and when someone says "new I just opened the box to check" you bet your as$ that it's been used for a long time, wiped clean (maybe) and shoved back in the box.

These are the same people when they buy something from you, they point out the smallest little problem that you already disclosed and demand a huge discount.

As you can tell I'm not very fond of people today.
 
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So far the seller has already ordered a replacement nut from Fret Nation, without me asking. They also have offered partial refund to cover the cost around getting this damage around the nut repaired.

I sent an email with these pictures to my luthier asking for a ballpark quote on repairs. I'll see what he says.

If the seller will cover the cost of the repairs I'm inclined to keep it. The rest of the bass is 'mint', as described.
The seller approved a pretty substantial partial refund to cover the cost of repairs, and because of their willingness to communicate and problem solve, I am feeling satisfied.

I'll get a new nut in later this week, and I'll drop it off with my favorite local luthier to get it fixed up.

I think this one will be fine once it's been seen to, so I'm excited for that!

Bonus that this D-Bird and my other one are litter-mates :laugh:

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Hi, me again ... please excuse my ignorance in these matters, but suppose I want my Super J5 to sound more modern and aggressive, like an NG-2; is there a mod that will get me there? Is the Darkglass preamp compatible with the Super J?

you could also consider changing the onboard electronics. The John East J-retro preamp can modernize your basses tone options. Some people also like the Audere units too.
There are some demo videos of the East preamps that give a pretty good idea of their capabilities and versatility
 
Thanks everybody! Easiest option might be getting an NG-2 and selling the J5. Too bad b/cI love the scale range. I'm just not into pedals and modding is a sticky wicket I'm not sure I want to get into with such an expensive bass. Love this site, you guys are the best.

EDIT: Going to chat with Long & McQuade (basically Canada's GC) about a John East or Audere J preamp before thinking about a whole new bass. I just read some very good things about the John East in particular. Can't afford a more recent Super J and don't want to give up the medium scale!
 
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you could also consider changing the onboard electronics. The John East J-retro preamp can modernize your basses tone options. Some people also like the Audere units too.
There are some demo videos of the East preamps that give a pretty good idea of their capabilities and versatility
I had a bass with John East pre and thought it one of the best I have heard. I have wondered to myself of what one would sound like in a Dingwall.
 
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Sharing some Dingwall love.
I have an AB1 5string since mid July and have waited to comment on it until I had the chance to play it for a while.
Now that a few months have passed and after playing it live with different bands in varying genres (and I have done some recordings too) I can only say...……… WOW.
It plays effortless and really has all the sounds I need and reacts superbly to playing style and finger placement.
Volumes tend do differ a bit when changing pickup configurations so it's not always safe to change per song on the fly but usually I choose the one sound that suits the band the best. And on the occasions where I really do need to switch I let the volume knob do it's work.
Last week we played at a radio station and it was filmed too so you can have a look and a listen if you'd like.

For those of you who are interested, FDV pickups, neck and bridge pickup engaged, neck in series bridge parallel.
Glockenklang preamp in active mode with just a bit of highs rolled off.
 
I’d suggest rewiring your super fatties to series. This is easy and easily reversed if it doesn’t move you in the right direction.

View attachment 3592291 View attachment 3592292
Simply connect green to black. You don’t have to remove the pups, it’s a ten minute job at the control plate. Insulate the connection with a bit of shrink. This will certainly move you in the “aggressive” direction.

I’m not sure how I’d describe “modern” but with the glock preamp, there’s plenty of hi fi available. If it’s modern heavy tone you are after, the Darkglass alpha omega ultra is sweet. I loved the clean eq boost. It does super heavy aggressive sounds as well.

Next stop would be the P pup from Dingwall.

What kind of compression are you running?
Definitely. Very viable option here.
+1 to this suggestion
 
Sharing some Dingwall love.
I have an AB1 5string since mid July and have waited to comment on it until I had the chance to play it for a while.
Now that a few months have passed and after playing it live with different bands in varying genres (and I have done some recordings too) I can only say...……… WOW.
It plays effortless and really has all the sounds I need and reacts superbly to playing style and finger placement.
Volumes tend do differ a bit when changing pickup configurations so it's not always safe to change per song on the fly but usually I choose the one sound that suits the band the best. And on the occasions where I really do need to switch I let the volume knob do it's work.
Last week we played at a radio station and it was filmed too so you can have a look and a listen if you'd like.

For those of you who are interested, FDV pickups, neck and bridge pickup engaged, neck in series bridge parallel.
Glockenklang preamp in active mode with just a bit of highs rolled off.

Dayamn!!! You guys are killin it. Great retro vibe coming through that AB too.
If I ran into your singer on the street I’d never guess he had those pipes too. Lol.
Great band, very talented.
Thanks for sharing
 
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Ignorant question: isn't the third position on my rotary switch series?

on 4 lead pick ups the internal coils can be wired in series or parallel with in the pick up.
Where as what your referring to is the complete 2(bridge and neck pick ups together in series/parallel) pick ups them selves vs internally per pick up. Hope that makes sense.

on some basses you’ll see the 3x switches to switch the internals vs hard wiring them one way or the other.

like this. One switch per pick up.
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