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Dingwall Owners Club

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I was cleaning the music room the other night and found these in amongst the chaos.
 
Beauty! Some good variety right there.

A few bits and pieces. I've been playing the fretless non-stop since March 16 when we were 'sent home' to work. I feel like I've finally gotten to a really decent point of comfort. When I hear something off I'm now more confident I need to check my tuning rather than check my intonation. ; )
 
I'm a fan of the cello hip :) those basses have such a unique look!

Me too. I was surprised when I did my original order for the Rastaburst that it was an available option. I think I was one of very few who had done one since they discontinued the Voodoo.
 
@BurningSkies how does the Voodoo compare tonally to the newer Dingwalls? I don't know much about older models but I don't think I've ever seen one with "straight" pickups.

Well, the pickups don't necessarily line up on harmonics nodes like the current ones...but overall that's a lesser sound difference I think. It's a pretty different instrument and it's a bit hard to make direct comparisons. It's got a 11 or 12pc neck, which is pretty thick/massive that combined with a mahogany body, which isn't a common Dingwall body wood, which probably account for the general difference in tones. The band didn't love it in the mix...it disappears pretty readily in a band setting.

There's a handful of 'straight pickup' basses out there. They're the very earliest of the Dingwall production basses. This one dates to 1993, that and the body decal are the give away that it's one of the oldest. I have the original Bart pickups (and blown out preamp), but when I got it I spent some time 'updating' the electronics. Sheldon made me a set of FD3's for it, though it took a while to figure out what was going on with the pickup size. They're not one of the standard options for 5 strings of that time, and don't match a bunch of the early Voodoos. It turns out that they're the size of more current 4-string Dingwall pickups, and he repurposed some NOS shells from when FD's didn't yet have curved sides. When it came to me it had a passive Jazz bass setup with V/V/T. It now has a 2-band Aguilar 18V in it with a modern 4-way selector.
 
Hej

I have a Active 2x Control layout Dingwall, and when I change the settings on Rotary pickup selector the volume changes drastically.

Setting 3-"Bridge/neck series" being the highest sounding loudest and 1-"Bridge" being the quietest.

Does this mean my pickups are not set correctly? I set it up based on the videos on Dingwall youtube channel and they are still not as deep as suggested there, but I don't think I can physically push them further than they are now.

Regards
Zalek
 
Hej

I have a Active 2x Control layout Dingwall, and when I change the settings on Rotary pickup selector the volume changes drastically.

Setting 3-"Bridge/neck series" being the highest sounding loudest and 1-"Bridge" being the quietest.

Does this mean my pickups are not set correctly? I set it up based on the videos on Dingwall youtube channel and they are still not as deep as suggested there, but I don't think I can physically push them further than they are now.

Regards
Zalek

The series pickups setting is always louder, it's the nature of the beast when it comes to pickup wiring. I always find that the others should be roughly the same, but I wouldn't be afraid to mess with the bridge pickup height as long as you're not running into problems with the strings hitting the pickup.
 
The series pickups setting is always louder, it's the nature of the beast when it comes to pickup wiring. I always find that the others should be roughly the same, but I wouldn't be afraid to mess with the bridge pickup height as long as you're not running into problems with the strings hitting the pickup.
Correct. I did a measurement yesterday with the Blackhole Sunburst Z3, and position 2 (bridge/middle series) was 5 dB louder than position 3 (bridge/neck parallel), and it was 8-9 dB louder than positions 1 and 4 (bridge solo and neck solo respectively).
When you play in position 2, you have to mean it! In other words, if you EQ everything else in your signal chain for position 2, you are probably going to want to stay in position 2. Otherwise, the other (easy) option is to just play with the volume knob on 8 in position 2, and volume on 10 for everything else.
 
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Correct. I did a measurement yesterday with the Blackhole Sunburst Z3, and position 2 (bridge/middle series) was 5 dB louder than position 3 (bridge/neck parallel), and it was 8-9 dB louder than positions 1 and 4 (bridge solo and neck solo respectively).
When you play in position 2, you have to mean it! In other words, if you EQ everything else in your signal chain for position 2, you are probably going to want to stay in position 2. Otherwise, the other (easy) option is to just play with the volume knob on 8 in position 2, and volume on 10 for everything else.

or have a boost in your pedal chain you can engage
 
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I actually never 'run' with my bass' volume full up. I run with it at about 85% or so. Because it's active there's no net gain tonally for running it full out like with a passive bass. From that 85% I have room to bump up the volume if I run in a single-pickup or parallel setting, or bump down if I need to in series. Once you've played 'em for a while this becomes second nature and you'll know how much of a roll up or down you need at any given moment.
 
I actually never 'run' with my bass' volume full up. I run with it at about 85% or so. Because it's active there's no net gain tonally for running it full out like with a passive bass. From that 85% I have room to bump up the volume if I run in a single-pickup or parallel setting, or bump down if I need to in series. Once you've played 'em for a while this becomes second nature and you'll know how much of a roll up or down you need at any given moment.
Spoken like a true pro!!
Yep, that's the way to do it, as long as you can train yourself not to accidentally bump up the volume bump up the volume bump up the volume when you dance dance.