I remember when you originally bought that. What a crap deal. At least you weren’t heavy on the expense for it but still...... sucks buying a bass full of unpleasant surprises.The face of the fretboard and some of the headstock were also scratched pretty seriously. The seller on reverb made me whole for the cost of repairs from a skilled luthier, so I won’t gripe TOO much, but they claimed they didn’t ship the instrument that way
I should have asked for more pictures before buying. A cautionary tale about reverb and not having many good pictures before buying. It turned out reasonably well for me, but still.
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Dingwall Owners Club
- Thread starter FroggyOne2
- Start date
@EMoneySC2 Damn that was rough!
Definitely ask questions on Reverb purchases! My NG3 wasn't that bad but the E string nut slot had super glue added to "compensate" for a string that was too short. That counts as a mod right?
Definitely ask questions on Reverb purchases! My NG3 wasn't that bad but the E string nut slot had super glue added to "compensate" for a string that was too short. That counts as a mod right?
Yeah, that was not a happy couple weeks! The fine folks at Hoffman Guitars in Minneapolis did a great job with it, so the story has a happy ending.
I can’t overstate my love of the D-Birds. I’d like to try a D-Roc at some point, but the D-Bird is a more appealing aesthetic to me.
I’ll hold on to one of them. Might end up getting it refinished down the road, just to really make it mine.
johnsonabq
Watch out where the huskies go...
I was referring to the chunk of finish that came off. Was that caused by the "mods"?
johnsonabq
Watch out where the huskies go...
Yeah, not buying that for a minute. Worth a complaint and an expected remedy of some sort.
Hi all, has anyone installed a Tone Capsule in the Combustion? I'm not sure how to do it, I think I just need to wire up the 5-pin harness that was plugged into the stock EMG preamp, but don't know which wires are ground, audio in, and audio out.
Other people will chime in, but when you get a tone capsule it comes with it's own potentiometers for bass, low mid, and high mid, and those potentiometers have wider diameter shafts than the EMG preamp's potentiometers. Once you get that worked out by a luthier (preferably), then there's the wiring question.
Build quality is top notch. Very stable. Truth be told I mostly use it for transporting my laptop and other things for work (the antitheft backside zipper is really nice) but I have used it to carry extras to gigs. Over a year in and it looks and still feels amazing. It's really fantastic.
Well I managed to get it wired up and everything working with the "Blend, volume controls with bypass switch" diagram in the Tone Capsule manual. If anyone else searching Dingwall Combustion Tone Capsule installation comes across this, I snipped off the 5 pin female connector that plugs into the stock EMG preamp, stripped and tinned the wires with solder,
white - audio in
green - audio out
red - 9v
blacks - ground soldered both together
This is just what I did with my bass... I'm not suggesting anyone follow my method with their bass.
white - audio in
green - audio out
red - 9v
blacks - ground soldered both together
This is just what I did with my bass... I'm not suggesting anyone follow my method with their bass.
Hi all, I finally got her put back together and I'm very happy with the result.
A few things, the Darkglass tone capsule is interesting. I've had a few of their pedals for years now and it's definitely that sound, the bass control is much more freeing than the 30 hz on the stock emg pre in the Combustions.
Dingstrand Nordwall (Nordstrand) FD3s do work, I was getting some conflicting information on the internet and from Sheldon/Nordstrand but they seem to work perfectly fine as far as I can tell.
Still have to decide on a pickguard but this black gold sparkle is growing on me much more than I thought it would to be honest, I've also got a matte black one on the way.
A few things, the Darkglass tone capsule is interesting. I've had a few of their pedals for years now and it's definitely that sound, the bass control is much more freeing than the 30 hz on the stock emg pre in the Combustions.
Dingstrand Nordwall (Nordstrand) FD3s do work, I was getting some conflicting information on the internet and from Sheldon/Nordstrand but they seem to work perfectly fine as far as I can tell.
Still have to decide on a pickguard but this black gold sparkle is growing on me much more than I thought it would to be honest, I've also got a matte black one on the way.
That looks great! The matte tuners look dope too. Knocked it out the park!
And the real deal knobs... I think I need some of those for mine!
Does anyone here play their Dingwall through a "Wampler" Ego compressor pedal, with a PICK? Am I asking for too much? I just got the pedal and I notice this pronounced 'snap' at the start of the 1st picked note. If your playing notes in a song, the succession of picked notes is fine, but if theres a break in the song, you know, and the comp goes back to normal, and then you pick that first note again, there is that 'snap' or 'pop', whatever you wanna call it. Never had it with my Dingwall into my MXR M87 compression pedal. I already fiddled with all the knobs on the new pedal, doesn't matter.
Not at the moment. I turned my one Jackson into a dedicated B-E-A-D bass but I filed the nut too low and now have mucho fret buzz. Needs a new nut, unplayable. My other Jackson went out to the custom guitar painters (a well known guy on here), last MARCH and I still don't have it back yet. Artists are slow. So its only the Dingwall. That's not a bad thing though. Wow, a guy on TB here (me) that only has 1 playable bass, unheard of.
Don't feel bad, all I've got is my Dingwall as well. Not the worst place to be, what model do you have?
Did you set your Attack control to start compression a bit more gradually? Often a very fast attack can let just a bit of the uncompressed envelope through, then the compressor quickly clamps down, leading to a "pop." Once clamped, the subsequent notes stay at the same level until the compressor has time to release during a "break in the action." Then your first note when you start up again gets the same "pop" treatment. This is particularly noticeable with a pick, given the very percussive immediate attack of the envelope. A lower input signal with more modest compression can also help, since then there isn't the huge disparity between uncompressed and compressed levels. Just stating the obvious here--you've probably tried all this already.
Yes, of course, about the pictures. Dingwall Dingus, I have a beautiful 3.5 month old Whalepools Blue 4 string Combustion. I just got the Wampler today. I didn't need it, just had 'GAS" as they say. I read all the reports Scubaduba wrote on here and decided to give the Wampler a go. I do like the 'color' it adds to my Dingwall and I like the blend knob. I'm a set and forget person, so once I find my favorite knob positions, it will be that way in 10 years from now, unless the little 3 year old GF's granddaughter has at it, but I have pictures to tell me where they were. The MXR here is what it was when I took it out of service today. The Wampler is what I'd like to leave it at. Like I mentioned, I do play with the pick 100% and I do hear ya about pick percussiveness, but now using the Wampler, I notice the distinct 'snap'/'pop' vs the MXR where I never noticed that (maybe it was there but not like the Wampler). What do you think about the settings here?
