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Dingwall Owners Club

#43,241
groovaholic said:
I saw this USA Hamer bass the other day, and it had partially recessed strap buttons.

It struck me that rather than having the bass hang from a single screw, cantilevered out there on the tip of the horn (with the flat backside of the button pressed against the curved surface of the bass) a slight recess will both provide a flat interface and the sides will let the wood carry more of the shear load.

I know that many Dingwalls use fully recessed strap buttons, but I prefer Schaller strap locks, so the fully-recessed buttons wouldn’t work for me.

Anyone else see merit in the partially recessed strap button approach?
Click to expand...

I see how flattening out the contact surface is a good thing on the horn but I don’t really think it’s all that critical. If 3/4” -1” of screw and the machining of the pin head aren’t suffice then something pretty darn extreme has happened IMO.

That said, I prefer the Dunlop strap locks and their pin heads. The head itself holds a strap very well if you don’t use locks. It’s robust and has a nice taper.

I haven’t used locks in a long time and haven’t been in a regularly practicing project for that time so they became irrelevant. I’ll be happy to go back to locks if life directs me that way.
That said I have NO desire for those recessed lock ends as that leave you zero option for a strap connection if your strap lock fails or you just opt to bot use them. I’ve opted to not buy a couple basses based on the fact alone that it had no strap pin heads due to the recessed lock button holes being installed.

I know stage life is different and did appreciate those shallers at one point too.
Smart design if you commit to them.
 
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#43,242
groovaholic said:
I saw this USA Hamer bass the other day, and it had partially recessed strap buttons.

It struck me that rather than having the bass hang from a single screw, cantilevered out there on the tip of the horn (with the flat backside of the button pressed against the curved surface of the bass) a slight recess will both provide a flat interface and the sides will let the wood carry more of the shear load.

I know that many Dingwalls use fully recessed strap buttons, but I prefer Schaller strap locks, so the fully-recessed buttons wouldn’t work for me.

Anyone else see merit in the partially recessed strap button approach?
Click to expand...

As long as the screw has good grab on the wood, I’d think that your shoulder or strap are going to be utterly obliterated before the scrap button screw is going to fail. Imaging the force it will take to break a stainless steel screw.
 
#43,243
groovaholic said:
I saw this USA Hamer bass the other day, and it had partially recessed strap buttons.

It struck me that rather than having the bass hang from a single screw, cantilevered out there on the tip of the horn (with the flat backside of the button pressed against the curved surface of the bass) a slight recess will both provide a flat interface and the sides will let the wood carry more of the shear load.

I know that many Dingwalls use fully recessed strap buttons, but I prefer Schaller strap locks, so the fully-recessed buttons wouldn’t work for me.

Anyone else see merit in the partially recessed strap button approach?
Click to expand...

I like this idea. I'm always considering 'in case of' situations in the field because there are SO many things that can easily go wrong that are small but can kill a night. One of those is if my strap with lock pins goes missing or stolen on a given night, the next night being able to use a regular strap, which is usually easy to source. With recessed locks you don't have that option.
 
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#43,244
J Posega said:
As long as the screw has good grab on the wood, I’d think that your shoulder or strap are going to be utterly obliterated before the scrap button screw is going to fail. Imaging the force it will take to break a stainless steel screw.
Click to expand...

I was Alejandra Villarreal’s (bassist for The Warning) tech for a couple shows in NYC. She was borrowing my Spector NS-4 and I watched her pull the strap pin screw right out of the bass at the beginning of one of their songs (ironically it includes the line break, break, break, just break apart!).

She’s not exactly a bodybuilder (tall and very thin) but she does move around a lot on stage and tends to put a lot of pressure on the strap. She’s done this same thing more than once (to different basses). Anyway, just wanted to say that it can happen!
 
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#43,246
japhy4529 said:
I was Alejandra Villarreal’s (bassist for The Warning) tech for a couple shows in NYC. She was borrowing my Spector NS-4 and I watched her pull the strap pin screw right out of the bass at the beginning of one of their songs (ironically it includes the line break, break, break, just break apart!).

She’s not exactly a bodybuilder (tall and very thin) but she does move around a lot on stage and tends to put a lot of pressure on the strap. She’s done this same thing more than once (to different basses). Anyway, just wanted to say that it can happen!
Click to expand...
Like I said, if the screw is digging into the wood properly, that wouldn't happen. Some strap buttons come with machine screws instead of wood screws. Sometimes the hole was just drilled too wide to begin with. Sometimes, the strap button will get turned by the strap, thus turning the screw. As a tech, I'm sure you know the quick and dirty repair for a stripped strap-button hole (toothpick and glue). What I was I referring to was improbability of the screw itself breaking.
 
#43,249
Got the drums stems for 3 tracks of my new band and the Super P keeps killing it on the recordings :hyper:
A2FEC20A-5C91-4BC8-BFA8-D218127A0D3A.jpeg
 
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#43,250
J Posega said:
I've never seen a strap button screw end up bent either. Guess I'm either lucky or weak.
Click to expand...
In my defense, I think the stainless steel is more mild/malleable than typical strap button screws - but I chose these screws for a trim head (to fit into the Schaller strap buttons) and the coarse thread (because @Sheldon D. says they hold better in end grain)
 
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#43,251
TheLowDown33 said:
Preaching to the choir I know, but I'm dropping this here as yet another example of a Dingwall being used in a context almost antithetical to the "modern metal" one

Click to expand...


really cool tune, and great bass playing, too. In fact the whole package is awesome.. mix is good, tight rhythm section, good sounding instruments all around and that singer is great. Thanks for sharing!
 
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#43,257
Sodbuster said:
Thanks. I traded for the D-Roc but was unaware that the original nut was replaced.
The replacement isn't a proper fit, and my hand catches on it. Probably could fix the current nut but would rather get one that was made specifically for the D-Roc if possible.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I'd hit Jason before hitting the shop just because the people in Saskatoon are usually pretty busy and your most efficient route would be a retail outlet. Pricing should be the same. I don't know if you're from Tundra US or Tundra CA or even Tundra EU... but FN will send internationally.
 
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#43,259
Sodbuster said:
Hello. I am in need of a D-Roc Standard replacement nut. Any help in locating one would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Click to expand...
Give Billy in sales an email [email protected]. He'll hook you up. Keep in mind that nuts are not user replaceable. You will need a tech to fine tune the fit and slot depths.
 
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