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Dingwall Owners Club

#43,463
kev451 said:
Hi fellas I posted a week ago on the Dingwall NG 3 Dingwall which I think had preamp issues. I’m just gonna sell it. The bass plays very well action wise. And tone wise it’s pretty good. I was thinking of listing it for $1100-1200 is that a decent price? I see another bass which Is like to try and purchase ASAP do you guys think it’ll go quick ?
Click to expand...

I'm going to buck the trend here.

From our discussions, I think that's probably where this bass should be. It's non-original with a preamp or switching system that appears to not be functional. It has a heavily modified neck that appears from your description to not be exactly top level, and the non-original paintjob/clear coat over it to my eyes isn't the smoothest job either.

That all said I think your range is just about right.
 
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#43,464
BurningSkies said:
I'm going to buck the trend here.

From our discussions, I think that's probably where this bass should be. It's non-original with a preamp or switching system that appears to not be functional. It has a heavily modified neck that appears from your description to not be exactly top level, and the non-original paintjob/clear coat over it to my eyes isn't the smoothest job either.

That all said I think your range is just about right.
Click to expand...

I agree with this. When I posted above I assumed it was stock. The mods and preamp issues devalue the bass considerably.
 
#43,465
muggsy said:
I agree with this. When I posted above I assumed it was stock. The mods and preamp issues devalue the bass considerably.
Click to expand...

The neck would be the most concerning, because at this point it is what it is. You can't un-inlay, though you could get someone to remove and redo the work. The electronics could be anything from just rewiring and making sure everything is correct to replacing what's there. And the body (depending on how it is in person) could be stripped and re-finished fairly easily (along with the headstock).
 
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#43,466
BurningSkies said:
The neck would be the most concerning, because at this point it is what it is. You can't un-inlay, though you could get someone to remove and redo the work. The electronics could be anything from just rewiring and making sure everything is correct to replacing what's there. And the body (depending on how it is in person) could be stripped and re-finished fairly easily (along with the headstock).
Click to expand...

the neck job isn’t that bad, to be honest I’ve sat down and played it with fingers and a pick and it’s fine. Feels smooth, it’s just obvious that the necks don’t come with a finish like that. The pups having that coating on them look stupid (I think we can all agree with that one haha) the paint job is also actually pretty good. Pics make it look suspect but when you have the bass it’s looks extremely well done. The part on the head stock is done very well looks like it came that way, but again you guys are the experts and I’ll take your guys word on it. Also there is a slight boost when the switch for the preamp is engaged. It’s not the bunk I’ve seen in videos but the end high end portion has a bit of a boost.
 
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#43,467
kev451 said:
the neck job isn’t that bad, to be honest I’ve sat down and played it with fingers and a pick and it’s fine. Feels smooth, it’s just obvious that the necks don’t come with a finish like that. The pups having that coating on them look stupid (I think we can all agree with that one haha) the paint job is also actually pretty good. Pics make it look suspect but when you have the bass it’s looks extremely well done. The part on the head stock is done very well looks like it came that way, but again you guys are the experts and I’ll take your guys word on it. Also there is a slight boost when the switch for the preamp is engaged. It’s not the bunk I’ve seen in videos but the end high end portion has a bit of a boost.
Click to expand...

Dingwall folks can be fussy. ;) I know I can be. When I had my fretless done, I wasn't entirely happy with the first inlay work and FB truing...and sent it out to someone else to redo the entire thing...cut out the inlay and do it to the highest standard possible. Generally speaking the basses are made with a high level of fit and finish, so we're pretty used to that. In this case pricing it in the range you're discussing would allow someone to take on whatever work was deemed needed.
 
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#43,468
BurningSkies said:
Dingwall folks can be fussy. ;) I know I can be. When I had my fretless done, I wasn't entirely happy with the first inlay work and FB truing...and sent it out to someone else to redo the entire thing...cut out the inlay and do it to the highest standard possible. Generally speaking the basses are made with a high level of fit and finish, so we're pretty used to that. In this case pricing it in the range you're discussing would allow someone to take on whatever work was deemed needed.
Click to expand...

I’m the say way so I can relate, if you spend money then it should be done to your specifications and done well. And to be honest the only real work would honestly be to have the preamp looked at. Because you hear the difference it’s just a slight boost in the high end.
 
#43,469
kev451 said:
I’m the say way so I can relate, if you spend money then it should be done to your specifications and done well. And to be honest the only real work would honestly be to have the preamp looked at. Because you hear the difference it’s just a slight boost in the high end.
Click to expand...

There can be a slight difference in tone and output when the pre-amp is engaged because it buffers the signal from all the cable losses and input impedance of the amp or pedals. The longer your cable and the lower the input impedances the more of a difference you will hear.
 
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#43,474
DeltaPhoenix said:
Oh wow, on installing 2 - like an Alembic or something. I was wondering if after the rotary switch would be the solution for this - thanks for confirming.
Click to expand...
Yeah, basically. One will be HI and LO pass filters for the neck pickup, and another pair for the bridge pickup. I have some things I need to sort out for dropping it all in, but, since I don't have my Z yet, I still have time haha.
Controls are going to be:
Volume, wired to the volume control of both pres - acts as a master volume.
Rotary switch / pickup selector
Neck LO stack (frequency on lower half, overshoot peak on upper half)
Neck HI stack (frequency on lower half, gain on upper half)
Bridge LO stack (same setup)
Bridge HI stack (same setup)

My biggest hurdle is... that's 6 pots, whereas the Z will only have 5 holes drilled. So I need to sort out exactly how I want to handle that. Drilling another hole isn't something I'm opposed to, I've done it on other Dingwalls... just doing it on a brand new Z is a bit scary. I might do something less intrusive like mounting the rotary or volume knob from the rear, if I can find a way to do that without being in the way when playing. That'd allow me to reverse it back to stock without any permanent disfiguring.
 
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#43,475
Selta said:
Yeah, basically. One will be HI and LO pass filters for the neck pickup, and another pair for the bridge pickup. I have some things I need to sort out for dropping it all in, but, since I don't have my Z yet, I still have time haha.
Controls are going to be:
Volume, wired to the volume control of both pres - acts as a master volume.
Rotary switch / pickup selector
Neck LO stack (frequency on lower half, overshoot peak on upper half)
Neck HI stack (frequency on lower half, gain on upper half)
Bridge LO stack (same setup)
Bridge HI stack (same setup)

My biggest hurdle is... that's 6 pots, whereas the Z will only have 5 holes drilled. So I need to sort out exactly how I want to handle that. Drilling another hole isn't something I'm opposed to, I've done it on other Dingwalls... just doing it on a brand new Z is a bit scary. I might do something less intrusive like mounting the rotary or volume knob from the rear, if I can find a way to do that without being in the way when playing. That'd allow me to reverse it back to stock without any permanent disfiguring.
Click to expand...
I wonder what the odds are of getting a stacked Vol/selector pot ?

or what about stacked filter pots x2?
 
#43,476
AB Nate said:
Right, that one. I do recommend one day trying one that hasn’t been modified so much. I remember seeing it listed and think your probably price around it’s selling point.
GLWTS
Click to expand...

BurningSkies said:
I'm going to buck the trend here.

From our discussions, I think that's probably where this bass should be. It's non-original with a preamp or switching system that appears to not be functional. It has a heavily modified neck that appears from your description to not be exactly top level, and the non-original paintjob/clear coat over it to my eyes isn't the smoothest job either.

That all said I think your range is just about right.
Click to expand...
I’m with ya. Unfortunately nothing that was done to it IMO added or maintained value.
I don’t mind the finish but everything else done raises concern or requiring attention.
That neck work, especially the inlays, saddens me.
At the right price I’d take it on as a project but ultimately someone else in a different position can take it on and do the minimum required work and probably have a great stage bass with no quirks at a decent price.
Fundamentally it’s still a solid NG I assume aside from someone digging into the electronics that probably shouldn’t have.
 
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#43,478
kev451 said:
I honestly hadn’t even considered that a possible factor.
Click to expand...
It won’t be a big enough factor to not be able to notice the controls of the pre amp though. There is significant range throughout those pots. If it’s just engaging on the switch at flat (on/off)is what is being referred to.
I’m sure you could wrap a cable around the moon and back and still hear what that high mid pot does to the sound when rolled.
 
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#43,479
AB Nate said:
It won’t be a big enough factor to not be able to notice the controls of the pre amp though. There is significant range throughout those pots. If it’s just engaging on the switch at flat (on/off)is what is being referred to.
I’m sure you could wrap a cable around the moon and back and still hear what that high mid pot does to the sound when rolled.
Click to expand...

I think Sheldon was addressing the tone difference between on-and-off with the preamp rather than the issue with controls not seeming to do much of anything.
 
#43,480
AB Nate said:
It won’t be a big enough factor to not be able to notice the controls of the pre amp though. There is significant range throughout those pots. If it’s just engaging on the switch at flat (on/off)is what is being referred to.
I’m sure you could wrap a cable around the moon and back and still hear what that high mid pot does to the sound when rolled.
Click to expand...
The thing is you hear a jump but to me it’s a slight jump on the high end portion of the sound. But I refer to you guys for an expert opinion on this. Maybe that is the jump which naturally occurs or not that’s what I’m unsure of.
 

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