I’d say IMHO it has to be the pups and any preamps used. Plus the player and their style.
And scale length!
And then there's always strings (which by design are different)...
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I’d say IMHO it has to be the pups and any preamps used. Plus the player and their style.
That made me think....
Where does the 'Dingwall sound' come from? You know, that ultra-modern, punchy, grindy sound.
I mean, my bass is made from exactly the same materials as my girlfriend's Warwick Corvette (ash body, wenge neck & fingerboard) but the two basses couldn't sound more different, even in passive. Is it the pickups?
Preamps CAN be a big part for sure.Dingwall uses ash. Warwick uses ash. But Dingwall's ash is not the same as Warwick's ash
I really think that has a lot to do with it. The woods that Sheldon chooses and voices has a lot to do with it. Pickups are a big part of it too, but I don't feel that preamps are a major part. All of my Dingwalls are passive and they have more output and sound bigger than any of my active basses.
I would be careful to check what the coil wiring is before making mods, as the spec has changed over the years. I believe that various combinations of series and parallel coils have been offered over the years. There’s also FD3 VS FDV to contend with.How did you find the sound prior to that coil switches ?
I was thinking of having her put like the Droc basses cause they are LOUD. I just want to make sure she’s loud. The FDV Pups are punchy and have a great grind to them.
I rarely (maybe never) use bridge solo. I would probably drop B/N series and take Bridge & Middle in Parallel/Series Neck for something that would (probably) be really different. I don't know how much different B+N series would be from B+M series.Hey all, I'm going to have some mods done to my brand new NG3 5-string, and I need some advice.
The mods will add:
- A passive tone
- A series/parallel switch for each pickup
- A 6-way rotary selector
For the rotary I definitely want these combos:
These are possibles:
- Bridge/Middle Series
- Middle Solo
- Neck Solo
So I will need to lose 2 from the second group. Which two??? So hard because I am guessing at the sounds.
- Bridge Solo
- Bridge/Middle Parallel
- Bridge/Neck Parallel
- Bridge/Neck Series
- Bridge & Middle in Parallel/Series Neck
I was thinking about these 6 (not necessarily in this order):
So I'm losing the Bridge Solo and the 3-pickup combination. What do you think?
- Bridge/Middle Series
- Middle Solo
- Neck Solo
- Bridge/Middle Parallel
- Bridge/Neck Parallel
- Bridge/Neck Series
Hey all, I'm going to have some mods done to my brand new NG3 5-string, and I need some advice.
The mods will add:
- A passive tone
- A series/parallel switch for each pickup
- A 6-way rotary selector
For the rotary I definitely want these combos:
These are possibles:
- Bridge/Middle Series
- Middle Solo
- Neck Solo
So I will need to lose 2 from the second group. Which two??? So hard because I am guessing at the sounds.
- Bridge Solo
- Bridge/Middle Parallel
- Bridge/Neck Parallel
- Bridge/Neck Series
- Bridge & Middle in Parallel/Series Neck
I was thinking about these 6 (not necessarily in this order):
So I'm losing the Bridge Solo and the 3-pickup combination. What do you think?
- Bridge/Middle Series
- Middle Solo
- Neck Solo
- Bridge/Middle Parallel
- Bridge/Neck Parallel
- Bridge/Neck Series
Tried a search and found a few hits - might be a topic to be revisited. Can anyone that cares to comment discuss the difference in neck thickness between a Z model and and AB model? I have AB1 experience to use as a baseline, but have never played a Z.
I understand that the Z does have a thinner thickness front to back. Are we talking like Steve Vai Ibanez super thin or something a little bit more reasonable?
This is exactly what I went for on my C5, and then on my ABZ5 - no regrets.Hey all, I'm going to have some mods done to my brand new NG3 5-string, and I need some advice.
The mods will add:
- A passive tone
- A series/parallel switch for each pickup
- A 6-way rotary selector
For the rotary I definitely want these combos:
These are possibles:
- Bridge/Middle Series
- Middle Solo
- Neck Solo
So I will need to lose 2 from the second group. Which two??? So hard because I am guessing at the sounds.
- Bridge Solo
- Bridge/Middle Parallel
- Bridge/Neck Parallel
- Bridge/Neck Series
- Bridge & Middle in Parallel/Series Neck
I was thinking about these 6 (not necessarily in this order):
So I'm losing the Bridge Solo and the 3-pickup combination. What do you think?
- Bridge/Middle Series
- Middle Solo
- Neck Solo
- Bridge/Middle Parallel
- Bridge/Neck Parallel
- Bridge/Neck Series
Hey all, I'm going to have some mods done to my brand new NG3 5-string, and I need some advice.
The mods will add:
- A passive tone
- A series/parallel switch for each pickup
- A 6-way rotary selector
For the rotary I definitely want these combos:
These are possibles:
- Bridge/Middle Series
- Middle Solo
- Neck Solo
So I will need to lose 2 from the second group. Which two??? So hard because I am guessing at the sounds.
- Bridge Solo
- Bridge/Middle Parallel
- Bridge/Neck Parallel
- Bridge/Neck Series
- Bridge & Middle in Parallel/Series Neck
I was thinking about these 6 (not necessarily in this order):
So I'm losing the Bridge Solo and the 3-pickup combination. What do you think?
- Bridge/Middle Series
- Middle Solo
- Neck Solo
- Bridge/Middle Parallel
- Bridge/Neck Parallel
- Bridge/Neck Series
The thinnest, fastest neck. If you have huge hands it may not be a preference.Tried a search and found a few hits - might be a topic to be revisited. Can anyone that cares to comment discuss the difference in neck thickness between a Z model and and AB model? I have AB1 experience to use as a baseline, but have never played a Z.
I understand that the Z does have a thinner thickness front to back. Are we talking like Steve Vai Ibanez super thin or something a little bit more reasonable?
I meant adding a passive tone control, possibly as a dual pot on the volume. Even when I have a bass with an active treble control, I like having a passive tone in both active and passive modes. It's quite different from an active treble control.by passive tone do you mean an actual control? Ie. the treble pot will double as tone control. or do you mean you’ll just turn the volume into an Active/passive switch although you already have the A/P toggle from factory so I’m assuming you mean the former(tone control)
for me, I’d lose the bridge solo and probably the B/M parallel. I have B/M parallel on my six way and it’s basically unused. Have tried a N/M setting on a switchblade I believe I’d have added that to my switch(in parallel) instead of B/M(parallel).
B/M series is one of my most used settings fwiw. That and B/N in series
I remember when Bill, who's no longer on the forum, got his NG3, he swapped the pickups around on the switch so he could try out N+M combos instead of B+M and found that they were just too muddy, even for his use in a reggae band.I meant adding a passive tone control, possibly as a dual pot on the volume. Even when I have a bass with an active treble control, I like having a passive tone in both active and passive modes. It's quite different from an active treble control.
B/M series is my favorite setting on the default 4 way switch. I have wondered why there were no N/M settings. I'll think about N/M series, that might be a nice fat sound...
It is a pretty smooth Phat sound for sure. I wouldn’t use it for my type of music(progressive metal) I don’t think except maybe a breakdown but for certain types of music I think it’s a great option.I meant adding a passive tone control, possibly as a dual pot on the volume. Even when I have a bass with an active treble control, I like having a passive tone in both active and passive modes. It's quite different from an active treble control.
B/M series is my favorite setting on the default 4 way switch. I have wondered why there were no N/M settings. I'll think about N/M series, that might be a nice fat sound...
I didn’t find it muddy at all when I got to explore it with FD3s and a DGTCI remember when Bill, who's no longer on the forum, got his NG3, he swapped the pickups around on the switch so he could try out N+M combos instead of B+M and found that they were just too muddy, even for his use in a reggae band.
That's curious. On my Super J I've got a 6-way in there now that allows for N+M in parallel and while it is definitely mega fat I wouldn't describe it as muddy. It's not a position I use very often, but it's certainly not unusable. I'd be curious to hear the differences in that position between my Super J and an NG3 like Bill's.I remember when Bill, who's no longer on the forum, got his NG3, he swapped the pickups around on the switch so he could try out N+M combos instead of B+M and found that they were just too muddy, even for his use in a reggae band.
I don’t think the Mid Push of a series setting would be complimentary to it. I’d keep it clean and smooth in parallel. IIRC the pick ups were in parallel and The bass did have switches to explore with.For those who liked N+M, did you only try parallel? For those that didn't like it, did you only try series? Did Bill try both?
The thinnest, fastest neck. If you have huge hands it may not be a preference.
If you’ve ever liked Ibanez necks before getting hands on an AB you may find the Z neck to be the most comfortable neck you’ve played. If you’ve liked P Bassball bat necks you may not find the Z neck to your liking.