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Dingwall Owners Club

I’d probably use epoxy to glue the insert back into the hole. Being careful to not get epoxy in the insert, or epoxy the screw itself into the insert. The post above describes it perfectly.

Seems like those pickup adjustment screws on the Dbirds might be a little long. I wanted to lower my pup a bit more, but stopped when I felt resistance. With a bit more determination, I’d probably be looking at the same issue. I might still end up there, but I’ll take the bolt out and trim a bit off first.

The bird sounded better the lower I went, but I have reached the limit with the bolts in there now.

When I changed the pickup in my Super J5 to a split P style, I drilled new holes in the ash body and tapped the wood to match the bolts. A little soap or wax on the bolt and it works just fine.

Sheldon wrote about testing this method of tapping the hardwood against inserts, and found it worked as well if not better than inserts. I imagine it came down to labor costs and speed of production.

The Dbird bodies are much thinner, so extra caution is in order if you go this route.

The right tap can help clear up any buggered threads. Those bolts should be a fairly common item at a well stocked hardware store.

Good Luck!
 
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I had this happen on my SJP. It had stripped the wood so it wouldn't hold anymore...

I lined the hole with some toothpicks to give the insert some meat to grab onto. I put he screw into the insert a little ways and put a small amount of glue around the insert. Using the correct size allen wrench (the red one i believe) i gently tapped the screw head to push the insert back into the hole. Once it was flush, i removed the screw to let it dry. Then i cleaned up the tooth picks, and reassembled. No issues since.

I hope that made sense.

EDIT: I should mention that I did trim back the tubing so i could lower the pickup to my desired location before reassembly...

Good Luck!

It made sense. Good work! :cool: The moral of the story? Use a light touch when adjusting pickup height. :)
 
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I had this happen on my SJP. It had stripped the wood so it wouldn't hold anymore...

I lined the hole with some toothpicks to give the insert some meat to grab onto. I put he screw into the insert a little ways and put a small amount of glue around the insert. Using the correct size allen wrench (the red one i believe) i gently tapped the screw head to push the insert back into the hole. Once it was flush, i removed the screw to let it dry. Then i cleaned up the tooth picks, and reassembled. No issues since.

I hope that made sense.

EDIT: I should mention that I did trim back the tubing so i could lower the pickup to my desired location before reassembly...

Good Luck!

I was thinking of doing this myself as well, I figured this belonged in the whole and the retainer piece somehow just wasn’t staying put.
 
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For reference, when my first D-Bird arrived at my door, my G string was basically resting on the middle pickup. I believe the insert may have pulled out before it got to me, but regardless, I had that issue. I asked on here, and Sheldon put in his $.02, IIRC for some form of super glue, WITH THE CAVEAT that it was best to take it to a luthier or well equipped shop that had the right equipment to be quite precise with the glue. That’s why I sent it to Pat Wilkins for repair and refinish, while I had originally intended to wait and play it a bit before getting it refinished.
 
We need a picture of that transparent white over ash :hyper:

Of course, my bad. Here you go:
0B9862EB-9F71-4A50-BF1E-50FF736F7B68.jpeg
 
I like this. The subtle grain lines make a really nice looking bass get more interesting as you get closer.

I feel the same about the fretboard. My first thought when encountering this bass was "why stray from the black/white theme with such a reddish board?". Then I was drawn in by the movement of its grain, as the block inlays pull the fretboard back into the main theme. Masterfully done.
 
So I'm in the market for a 6-string fretless.

Looking at an ABII - the Z looks nice but is out of my budget.

How different is the ABII from the ABZ in terms of tone/feel? I've got a wenge neck and Glock preamp on my ABZ, thinking of maple neck (with ebony fingerboard obviously) and DG electronics on an ABII, will it sound like a totally different instrument? Or should I just get another ABZ and save some cash? I do love how light the ABZ is...

Pic for attention.
324187779_686357766527623_1122333829303290251_n.jpg
 
So here's a form and function update to my NG3.

View attachment 4946966



I'm guessing some of you have already obtained the Neck Illusions inlay stickers for your Dingwall Combustions. With the bare fingerboard, I had issues with orientation in the upper register. When I got my ABI with Speedos, having the reference points really helps. Now I have the same thing with my NG3. Also, I think the purple/black swirls look pretty cool too.

Bones

Just got some of those inlay stickers after reading your post. Thanks so much!!
 
I had a real enjoyable dance with this amazing creation last night.

CE3ED7E1-ECE7-4B26-BBB7-40D90AEBF0AD.jpeg
5DCA2FEB-DF79-4A5B-B5CF-26538FFBD376.jpeg

So I'm in the market for a 6-string fretless.

Looking at an ABII - the Z looks nice but is out of my budget.

How different is the ABII from the ABZ in terms of tone/feel? I've got a wenge neck and Glock preamp on my ABZ, thinking of maple neck (with ebony fingerboard obviously) and DG electronics on an ABII, will it sound like a totally different instrument? Or should I just get another ABZ and save some cash? I do love how light the ABZ is...

Pic for attention.View attachment 4949585
the main feel difference will be the gloss vs satin finish. The AB2 is chambered walnut vs the lightweight ash. Both great options for the fretless.

I’d lean to the Chambered walnut myself.

after some electronics exploration I’ve found the FDVs paired with the glockenklang to be my fav for the one above. It had FD3s and a DGTC which I first did the pick up swap then much later the preamp.
 
Morning. I have a DROC and I do love it. I probably only really dig the middle pickup though, to be honest. It's one of the best P bass sounds I've heard. Not that the other options are bad , I just don't seem to have a use for them.

I'm considering selling the DROC and buying an NG3. Obviously the NG3 is active, or can be. So I figure I could do more with the NG3 and maybe I'd get more tonal variety out of it. But I don't want to just thrash around and waste $$. Does anyone have any thoughts on comparisons / positives , negatives. I hope to retain , if not improve upon my favorite pickup option I mentioned above.

One positive is I won't bump into my strap, on the higher register, on an NG3
 
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Not that the other options are bad , I just don't seem to have a use for them.

What other sounds are you looking to get out of a NG that you don't get from the D-Roc? The NG doesn't have wildly different options but if you want something specific just go the cheapest route and try the other 3x switch from Dingwall or the 6 way. The later will give you all the options you could ever want (well almost).

If you're set on trying a new bass there will almost certainly be a combustion or NG in stock at a local store depending on where in BC you are, should be pretty easy to compare.
 
Morning. I have a DROC and I do love it. I probably only really dig the middle pickup though, to be honest. It's one of the best P bass sounds I've heard. Not that the other options are bad , I just don't seem to have a use for them.

I'm considering selling the DROC and buying an NG3. Obviously the NG3 is active, or can be. So I figure I could do more with the NG3 and maybe I'd get more tonal variety out of it. But I don't want to just thrash around and waste $$. Does anyone have any thoughts on comparisons / positives , negatives. I hope to retain , if not improve upon my favorite pickup option I mentioned above.

One positive is I won't bump into my strap, on the higher register, on an NG3
Stock NG3 doesn’t have the middle pickup option, so at the very least you would be losing your favourite pickup setting unless you modify the NG3.
 
Good question.
What other sounds are you looking to get out of a NG that you don't get from the D-Roc? The NG doesn't have wildly different options but if you want something specific just go the cheapest route and try the other 3x switch from Dingwall or the 6 way. The later will give you all the options you could ever want (well almost).

If you're set on trying a new bass there will almost certainly be a combustion or NG in stock at a local store depending on where in BC you are, should be pretty easy to compare.
I'm in Victoria....sigh... lots of limitations here... Anyway that's my question: Are there any tones that I would have in addition. I assumed the NG3 would maybe have more tonal variety (perhaps wrongly). I don't have a dealer locally that actually stocks them per se. Long and McQuade order in but I think they charge restocking, I think. So just really trying to get a gauge of if it is worth the "upgrade", but if like what Derek is saying that I'd lost my favorite middle pickup, then that doesn't sit well. I did just get a new tapered strap, so hopefully that helps with higher fret access.
 
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Morning. I have a DROC and I do love it. I probably only really dig the middle pickup though, to be honest. It's one of the best P bass sounds I've heard. Not that the other options are bad , I just don't seem to have a use for them.

I'm considering selling the DROC and buying an NG3. Obviously the NG3 is active, or can be. So I figure I could do more with the NG3 and maybe I'd get more tonal variety out of it. But I don't want to just thrash around and waste $$. Does anyone have any thoughts on comparisons / positives , negatives. I hope to retain , if not improve upon my favorite pickup option I mentioned above.

One positive is I won't bump into my strap, on the higher register, on an NG3

I have an older NG-3 and it has the same pickup selector as the D-ROC. I agree that the middle pickup soloed is pretty cool. With my NG-3, though, I primarily use the bridge/middle setting. This works really well with the DGTC.

If I were you, I would keep the D-ROC. It sounds like you've found a very usable setting with the middle pickup only. This won't be the case with a newer NG-3. If you can swing it, I would just look to add the NG-3 to your arsenal.

Bones
 
Good question.

I'm in Victoria....sigh... lots of limitations here... Anyway that's my question: Are there any tones that I would have in addition. I assumed the NG3 would maybe have more tonal variety (perhaps wrongly). I don't have a dealer locally that actually stocks them per se. Long and McQuade order in but I think they charge restocking, I think. So just really trying to get a gauge of if it is worth the "upgrade", but if like what Derek is saying that I'd lost my favorite middle pickup, then that doesn't sit well. I did just get a new tapered strap, so hopefully that helps with higher fret access.

Sounds like a grass is greener situation, I would give some thought to ordering a 6 way switch. You can do everything a NG does with your D-Roc, 6 way switch and and EQ pedal.

I’m pretty sure Victoria L&M have Dingwalls in fairly often (you will know better than me though). I’ve certainly seen them on their pages, the Vancouver store tends to have them too so make a day trip of it and compare.

For my money the middle position on the D-Roc is where it’s at and I wouldn’t give it up. The pickups on an NG are slightly closer to the bridge so the sound is a little different. Also as Derek says you will need to mod it because the middle solo is not an option on the standard NG switch