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Dingwall Owners Club

Back in 2016 I routed an extra pickup cavity and added a neck P-Tone to my Z2.

The P-Bass sound is "home" to me, so that pickup was a great addition to the bass.

Problem is; the P-Tone is WAY hotter than the OG Bartolinis.
The only way to get the P-Tone and Bartolinis to balance is to get the Bartolinis as close to the strings as possible, then run them in series.

Previously, I installed a Bartolini dual-buffer which gave me the ability to adjust the volume individually, but I didn't like the tonal impact of the buffer - I prefer the "organic" vibe of the bass in passive mode.

I've also tried different active preamps (Darkglass Tone Capsule and Nordstrand 3B) but rarely used the EQ and again, preferred the passive tone.

So I'm looking for recommendations:
What BC-shaped pickup would mix well with the P-Tone - both tonally and in terms of output?

Thanks!
 
Back in 2016 I routed an extra pickup cavity and added a neck P-Tone to my Z2.

The P-Bass sound is "home" to me, so that pickup was a great addition to the bass.

Problem is; the P-Tone is WAY hotter than the OG Bartolinis.
The only way to get the P-Tone and Bartolinis to balance is to get the Bartolinis as close to the strings as possible, then run them in series.

Previously, I installed a Bartolini dual-buffer which gave me the ability to adjust the volume individually, but I didn't like the tonal impact of the buffer - I prefer the "organic" vibe of the bass in passive mode.

I've also tried different active preamps (Darkglass Tone Capsule and Nordstrand 3B) but rarely used the EQ and again, preferred the passive tone.

So I'm looking for recommendations:
What BC-shaped pickup would mix well with the P-Tone - both tonally and in terms of output?

Thanks!

My mind first goes to Seymour Duncan and then possibly Nordstrand.
 
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Any word on when the new bridges will finally be available?

I noticed a warbling/almost chorus sound on my 4 string D-Roc tuned to drop G# on frets 12+ using .145 strings, so Payson and the luthier I brought it to concurred that the solution was to go up to .160 so more of the fundamental note was being transmitted.

It has fixed it about 90% (thanks, Payson!), but now I have a new problem - to get that string to intonate in that tuning, I've had to move the lowest string's bridge so far back that it has moved out of the little "slots" where the height adjustment screws land, which means if in playing hard it's possible/easier for the string to move the bridge itself sideways a bit, this throwing things off there.

Hoping the new solid bridge add ons, whenever they are made available, have more adjustability and rigidity to help avoid that.

If anyone has any other potential solutions, I'm all ears :)
 
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6 string voodoo number #1 has a set with an accompanyment of a SD preamp

It’s a glorious sounding bass. Not modern though in comparison to the newer basses.

IMG_0655.jpeg
 
Any word on when the new bridges will finally be available?

I noticed a warbling/almost chorus sound on my 4 string D-Roc tuned to drop G# on frets 12+ using .145 strings, so Payson and the luthier I brought it to concurred that the solution was to go up to .160 so more of the fundamental note was being transmitted.

It has fixed it about 90% (thanks, Payson!), but now I have a new problem - to get that string to intonate in that tuning, I've had to move the lowest string's bridge so far back that it has moved out of the little "slots" where the height adjustment screws land, which means if in playing hard it's possible/easier for the string to move the bridge itself sideways a bit, this throwing things off there.

Hoping the new solid bridge add ons, whenever they are made available, have more adjustability and rigidity to help avoid that.

If anyone has any other potential solutions, I'm all ears :)

What is the pickup height under your G#? I noticed that when I was experimenting with anything over .130, I needed the pickup a little further away for clarity, i.e no warbling.. However that was on the 5th string, so it was 37" scale. You lose 3/4 of an inch on the 4th string of a 4 string (36.25"), I can imagine that is affecting your clarity with those big strings as well. I easily tune down to A with a .130 on the 5th, all I needed was a little more relief than what Sheldon recommends so my attack was clean. In my case I couldn't get a .145 on the 5th string to sound like the other strings. That's just me though... everyone has a different style.
 
Yeah, the luthier set the string height and all up to prep for me to drop the 160 in when it got here, so all I had to do was move the saddle as needed to intonate. The string is noticeably higher than ideal vs the board's radius (if I keep the higher strings as low as they'll go without buzz) to make it work, too. That part is sort of a symptom of this odd drop tuning, I think.

Other than the higher fret warbling on the G# (especially for held notes), which doesn't come into play with my main project all too often with my main project, it sounds pretty killer.

Here's a demo from yesterday, playing through a Jad Freer Capo:

 
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6 string voodoo number #1 has a set with an accompanyment of a SD preamp

It’s a glorious sounding bass. Not modern though in comparison to the newer basses.

View attachment 5044593

The successor to that was at musicloft a while back, very tempting:

Dingwall NAMM 2022 Ltd Ed. Cello Hip Z, 3x Pickups, Wenge X-Top, Dual Density Swamp Ash Body, Roasted Ash Neck, Wenge Fretboard, Dots w/ 12th Fret D Inlay, Matching Headstock, Glockenklang Preamp w/ Toggles, Gig Bag, SN# 6900

This Z3 had me want to sell my house and live in a van so I could afford it, just so cool, the finish is like Chewie is kicking the hyperdrive on in the Millennium Falcon... Had to let out a sigh of relief when it sold before I could do anything that drastic:

Dingwall Z3 Custom 5-String, Burl Maple X-Top, Wenge Contrast Layer, Dual Density Swamp Ash Body, Midnight Blue Reverse Burst Top, White w/ Blue Grain Fill Back, Wenge Neck, Ziricote Fretboard, White Pearloid Speedo Bar Inlays, Blue Luminlay Side Dots
 
Yeah, the luthier set the string height and all up to prep for me to drop the 160 in when it got here, so all I had to do was move the saddle as needed to intonate. The string is noticeably higher than ideal vs the board's radius (if I keep the higher strings as low as they'll go without buzz) to make it work, too. That part is sort of a symptom of this odd drop tuning, I think.

Other than the higher fret warbling on the G# (especially for held notes), which doesn't come into play with my main project all too often with my main project, it sounds pretty killer.

Here's a demo from yesterday, playing through a Jad Freer Capo:



Chunky. I’m curious to hear this when it’s finished!
 
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The successor to that was at musicloft a while back, very tempting:

Dingwall NAMM 2022 Ltd Ed. Cello Hip Z, 3x Pickups, Wenge X-Top, Dual Density Swamp Ash Body, Roasted Ash Neck, Wenge Fretboard, Dots w/ 12th Fret D Inlay, Matching Headstock, Glockenklang Preamp w/ Toggles, Gig Bag, SN# 6900

This Z3 had me want to sell my house and live in a van so I could afford it, just so cool, the finish is like Chewie is kicking the hyperdrive on in the Millennium Falcon... Had to let out a sigh of relief when it sold before I could do anything that drastic:

Dingwall Z3 Custom 5-String, Burl Maple X-Top, Wenge Contrast Layer, Dual Density Swamp Ash Body, Midnight Blue Reverse Burst Top, White w/ Blue Grain Fill Back, Wenge Neck, Ziricote Fretboard, White Pearloid Speedo Bar Inlays, Blue Luminlay Side Dots
Yup. That was my thought too. V2 looks incredible. If it was a six I may have had to try and acquire it just to have them both together.
 
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Chunky. I’m curious to hear this when it’s finished!

Thanks! We have two tracks out here (metal vocals warning, for those not into that), if you wanted to check them out - we're just getting going and will be trickling out more of the 10 tracks we've worked on over the last ~year in the near future, and we're also starting to look at booking shows here in Raleigh, NC and the surrounding area :):



Creepboåt | Facebook | Linktree
 
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Yeah, the luthier set the string height and all up to prep for me to drop the 160 in when it got here, so all I had to do was move the saddle as needed to intonate. The string is noticeably higher than ideal vs the board's radius (if I keep the higher strings as low as they'll go without buzz) to make it work, too. That part is sort of a symptom of this odd drop tuning, I think.

Other than the higher fret warbling on the G# (especially for held notes), which doesn't come into play with my main project all too often with my main project, it sounds pretty killer.

Here's a demo from yesterday, playing through a Jad Freer Capo:



Sounds good, nice ruff mix. You guys sound similar to the Awful Truth which morphed into Galactic Cowboys here in Houston back in the late 80’s.

 
Any word on when the new bridges will finally be available?

I noticed a warbling/almost chorus sound on my 4 string D-Roc tuned to drop G# on frets 12+ using .145 strings, so Payson and the luthier I brought it to concurred that the solution was to go up to .160 so more of the fundamental note was being transmitted.

It has fixed it about 90% (thanks, Payson!), but now I have a new problem - to get that string to intonate in that tuning, I've had to move the lowest string's bridge so far back that it has moved out of the little "slots" where the height adjustment screws land, which means if in playing hard it's possible/easier for the string to move the bridge itself sideways a bit, this throwing things off there.

Hoping the new solid bridge add ons, whenever they are made available, have more adjustability and rigidity to help avoid that.

If anyone has any other potential solutions, I'm all ears :)

Instead of raising your .160T lower your pickups. X3 neo magnet pu’s is a LOT of pull on a set of strings. Adjust your bass setup to what the bass allows you to do. The factory specs are meant to be a good starting point.

When intonating make sure only one pu is “on” (the bridge pu). Also double check that you’re not accidentally pulling down on the string when fretting up high.
When playing the string open or on the 1st few frets the pu height might be perfect. But up high the string is now lower / closer to the pu’s giving you the issue you’re having (warble).

I had an ABII5 equipped with Big Singles. When I played an F# (2nd fret E string) the note would try to pull sharp on the bloom. Drove me crazy. I lowered the pu 1/2 turn and the problem ceased.

If you need more intonation travel snip the spring by about 1/3 so you can move the saddle back further.

We’ll have a 1 piece bridge in 4,5 and 6 string very soon.
 
Instead of raising your .160T lower your pickups. X3 neo magnet pu’s is a LOT of pull on a set of strings. Adjust your bass setup to what the bass allows you to do. The factory specs are meant to be a good starting point.

When intonating make sure only one pu is “on” (the bridge pu). Also double check that you’re not accidentally pulling down on the string when fretting up high.
When playing the string open or on the 1st few frets the pu height might be perfect. But up high the string is now lower / closer to the pu’s giving you the issue you’re having (warble).

I had an ABII5 equipped with Big Singles. When I played an F# (2nd fret E string) the note would try to pull sharp on the bloom. Drove me crazy. I lowered the pu 1/2 turn and the problem ceased.

If you need more intonation travel snip the spring by about 1/3 so you can move the saddle back further.

We’ll have a 1 piece bridge in 4,5 and 6 string very soon.

Ah yeah, I did mess with the pup height quite a bit at the beginning of trying to fix this, but no dice. Thanks for trying to help, though!

Count me in for a 4 bridge for the d-roc when it's out for sure, and possibly a 6 bridge for my NG-3 as well (depending on the price and if it comes in black, batman style) :)

I'll email you now!
 
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