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Dingwall Owners Club

well finally i was defeated today.

i can swap pretty easily between 4,5,6.. 30..33.75,34, 35, 37 multiscale.

then i got a bass VI. the swap was not bad aside from string spacing. then i swapped back to my dingwall 6 and i was lost. my brain was like “what do you mean you want to play the same song?!?” first time that happened.
 
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Didn't have any on hand. I'd have thought that with the pre-amp on/off in the off position though that the volume knob should still work. Sorry, this is not an area I'm familiar with an all my basses are fully passive with no onboard pre-amp/EQ

In passive the bass should work fine without batteries. If it’s dead in active I would definitely start with new batteries or at least test your existing ones.

is the volume knob loose by chance and spinning in the cavity creating a dead short? Perhaps send us a pic of inside the cavity.

batteries
Jack
Inspect for loose wires
Volume knob

in that order I’d think.
 
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In passive the bass should work fine without batteries. If it’s dead in active I would definitely start with new batteries or at least test your existing ones.

is the volume knob loose by chance and spinning in the cavity creating a dead short? Perhaps send us a pic of inside the cavity.

batteries
Jack
Inspect for loose wires
Volume knob

in that order I’d think.
That's what dingwall advised as well but it seems totally solid. I did tighten the input jack as it was a little loosey-goosey. On the Facebook group they suggest maybe the wiper in the pot is disengaging and to just replace the pot. I just know nothing about them so I'd probably need a recommendation on what to replace it with. They said it's a type A logarithmic 500k pot. Pic of the pot in question:
20230707_162947.jpg
 
That's what dingwall advised as well but it seems totally solid. I did tighten the input jack as it was a little loosey-goosey. On the Facebook group they suggest maybe the wiper in the pot is disengaging and to just replace the pot. I just know nothing about them so I'd probably need a recommendation on what to replace it with. They said it's a type A logarithmic 500k pot. Pic of the pot in question: View attachment 5118823

If you are able to do the work yourself it’s a pretty inexpensive fix. Pretty quick fix for a tech too.
 
I swapped the stock vol pots on all my NG's for CTS full size pots. B500K linear matches what was stock in all of my NG's (B500K mini-Alpha). You do have to ream the hole out slightly to fit the wider pot diameter, but I feel its an improvement from the get go. Some will say I'm totally crazy and you can't hear the difference but to each his own, lol...

Log (type A) vol pots are quiet > LOUD to me.. I much prefer the rotation of a Linear pot for volume, much more even, especially on an active bass.
 
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what a great birthday present a year ago today. Still remains as my #1 bass. it was a bit of a risk having never played a Dingwall 6… but i looked up the neck measurement and it was pretty similar width to a ibanez 6 in a local store… and that felt fine. so i took the leap and never regretted it.
 
Can a 3x switch be used on a 2pickup bass?
Technically it would work, but not very well.

Depending on where you connect the two pickups to the switch, you would have at least a few settings that would pass signal.

But it's designed to be connected to three pickups and with one pickup missing you could end up with redundant positions, ie "bridge solo" and "bridge and middle in series" would both be only the bridge pickup if nothing is connected to the middle input on the switch. You could even have "dead" positions if a setting were to solo a pickup that wasn't connected.
 
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Can a 3x switch be used on a 2pickup bass?

It can work - I did it recently on my NG-3 - removed the middle pickup. I was left with Bridge Only, Neck + Bridge parallel, and Neck only. The position for Bridge + Middle in series did nothing (no sound at all) and I used it as a mute setting essentially.

I went back to using the 3 pickups, but if I had stayed using only 2, I might have picked up a 2x switch and then had N+B series.

J
 
…the neck pickup was so quiet and thin sounding and made all the combinations that used it sound trebly and weak. That pickup is wired differently. Its coils are in parallel, while the middle and bridge are in series. They are all wired that way externally. Cool! So I wired up the neck pickup in series.
Tonal heaven! The bass, already awesome, got a shot of testosterone and more versatility...
Thank goodness we’re not all the same. That would be a dull world indeed!

That said, I wouldn’t say that parallel coils are thin, but I did wish for a little more beef from my 2013 2-pickup passive ABZ.

I considered getting a P-tone for the neck, but I lost interest after installing mini switches for series/parallel coils on both pickups.

Turns out that I need not have bothered with the switches. Since I installed and set them to series mode about 9 years ago, I I’ve only turned them off once.
 
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It can work - I did it recently on my NG-3 - removed the middle pickup. I was left with Bridge Only, Neck + Bridge parallel, and Neck only. The position for Bridge + Middle in series did nothing (no sound at all) and I used it as a mute setting essentially.

I went back to using the 3 pickups, but if I had stayed using only 2, I might have picked up a 2x switch and then had N+B series.

J

Did something similar with a D-Roc. I got a P-Tone in the middle and a SFII in the bridge. Position 1 = bridge pickup, Position 2 = bridge + middle, Position 3 = middle, Position 4 = Kill Switch. To make things interesting I shifted them both towards the neck and left an unused shell in the bridge position.
 
Bass Direct unfortunately doesn’t offer FDVs in square shells any longer but Dingwall sales said they could make me a set. Bought them this morning, very excited to eventually try them compared to FD3s.
Cool! Can't wait to hear about your experience. I got the FD3 4L or whatever they're called and I have been pondering switching over to the FDVs too :)