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Dingwall Owners Club

#55,501
1. I wish they covered the ground hole (most wouldn’t notice it unless you pointed it out; it’s just a sliver), 2. I wish the B string side didn’t hang off the back (only on the 6ers), 3. it’s kinda weird the saddle rails don’t line up with the neck. They’re all pointed slightly to the left making the strings bend sideways a bit. Whyyyy? My OCD is making me twitch. lol
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#55,502
All in all, it feels more premium now. I never liked the smoked chrome that reminds me of cheap Ibanez’s. I’m not much into the blackout look but it’s what I’ve got to work with at the moment.

There’s definitely a change in tone and now I’m kicking myself I didn’t record a sample with the single rails to compare before changing. Maybe it sounds clearer? Idk

The tuners will be next along with a Drop Tuner.
 
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#55,503
Waltsdog said:
You’re not supposed to adjust the string spacing just FYI that’s why the Dingwall ones don’t allow it.
I wish Payson had made their bridge wide enough to cover the ground hole, on the second run of these it just seems like an obvious flaw that was ignored.
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What’s wrong with a small string spacing adjustment? The only experience I can speak from is the 4 string version which works wonderfully on the Dbird and covers the ground hole just fine.

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#55,504
Hm, just found that the lowest action I can get on the D, G, and C strings is 5/64”, and that’s with a nearly straight neck. There’s no play left there. The saddles are bottomed out. I always play 3/64” at the C and G strings up to 5/64” on the B so this feels reeeeally not optimal. :-/

I may have to get the neck shimmed or something. I’m not okay with this setup.

Anyone else with a Payson bridge find the same?
 
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#55,505
Energy said:
Here's a question for all Super series 5 string owners:
Do any of you play flats on your Super P/J/PJs?
I'd like to get some suggestions on flats for my Super P 5.
Steel or Nylon? Gauge? Brand? What works best for you?
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Waltsdog said:
Had TI flats on my old Super PJ and they were great.
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This^^
I’ve also tried La Bella Low Tension Flats, Cobalt flats and D’Addario Tapewounds.
I liked all of them for different reasons but my personal favourite is the TI’s for the supple feel. Mind you, I have a light touch and don’t hammer on my strings really hard.
 
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#55,506
Scott McArron said:
Hm, just found that the lowest action I can get on the D, G, and C strings is 5/64”, and that’s with a nearly straight neck. There’s no play left there. The saddles are bottomed out. I always play 3/64” at the C and G strings up to 5/64” on the B so this feels reeeeally not optimal. :-/

I may have to get the neck shimmed or something. I’m not okay with this setup.

Anyone else with a Payson bridge find the same?
Click to expand...

I have a Payson on my C5. My G is 3/64 and D is 3.5 (just under 4)/64 (approx). No issues
 
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#55,508
Scott McArron said:
Hm, just found that the lowest action I can get on the D, G, and C strings is 5/64”, and that’s with a nearly straight neck. There’s no play left there. The saddles are bottomed out. I always play 3/64” at the C and G strings up to 5/64” on the B so this feels reeeeally not optimal. :-/

I may have to get the neck shimmed or something. I’m not okay with this setup.

Anyone else with a Payson bridge find the same?
Click to expand...
I bottom out the G saddle at a bit over 3/64. Works, but not ideal for me (C5).
 
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#55,511
Energy said:
Here's a question for all Super series 5 string owners:
Do any of you play flats on your Super P/J/PJs?
I'd like to get some suggestions on flats for my Super P 5.
Steel or Nylon? Gauge? Brand? What works best for you?
Click to expand...

I have TI flats on my Super J, which is my favorite bass in part because I love the strings so much. On my two Super Ps I have LaBella Gold White Nylon Tapes (fretted) and LaBella Copper White Nylon Tapes (fretless) and they both sound (and feel) amazing. I'd highly recommend trying any of these strings on any Super if you want to get away from rounds. The TIs are definitely flats in their sound, but have enough high-end character to be played in most genres, I find. The white tapes, especially the Gold version, sound very much like rounds but have a similar feel to flats. The copper flats are a bit more mellow than the golds; I went with the gold on my fretted P because I do slap a bit on some of my band's songs, and they deliver the proper sound for that. I'm not slapping the fretless, though some do!
 
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#55,513
Scott McArron said:
Appreciate that! I’ll investigate a bit further then. Maybe the grounding wire under the bridge needs to be adjusted a little because I notice the bridge doesn’t quite sit flush because of it.
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I did notice that my ground wire stretched the entire length of the old (individual saddles) bridge. The downward pressure of the those individual saddles created an impression in the clear coat that it nestled in to. When I installed the Payson I did my best to keep it in the original position. Not sure if that helps or not.
 
#55,514
MascisMan said:
I did notice that my ground wire stretched the entire length of the old (individual saddles) bridge. The downward pressure of the those individual saddles created an impression in the clear coat that it nestled in to. When I installed the Payson I did my best to keep it in the original position. Not sure if that helps or not.
Click to expand...
I did the same. But I just got done reinstalling it with the wire behind the mount screws so it wouldn’t be a fulcrum keeping the front lifted. No change unfortunately. 5/64” is as low as it goes. :(
 
#55,516
Scott McArron said:
Curious. I’ve never had a bridge with adjustable string spacing. I don’t see where to adjust it. How do you go about it?
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You can probably roll each saddle which will shift groove to the left or right.

I agree that it might screw up the intonation on a fanned fret bass. I think there are precise calculations on the positioning of everything. Maybe it would be too small to be noticeable, but I wouldn't take the chance.
 
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#55,517
So, if I’m reading this correctly, the bridge is bottomed out on all its adjustments. Seems like the solution would be to route about an 1/8” below the bridge and drop the bridge into the body. Or shim the neck.

Or maybe take some material off the bottom of the bridge? Belt sander?
 
#55,518
Looking to buy a D-Roc standard 5. It seems the current batch is made in China and the earlier batches were made in South Korea. Has anyone noticed any quality or construction differences between the two?
 
#55,519
KB5 said:
Looking to buy a D-Roc standard 5. It seems the current batch is made in China and the earlier batches were made in South Korea. Has anyone noticed any quality or construction differences between the two?
Click to expand...

I can't speak to any differences, but I will say the Chinese made Dingwalls that I've owned have been of very good quality.

Nice enough to easily justify the price tag.
 
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#55,520
KB5 said:
Looking to buy a D-Roc standard 5. It seems the current batch is made in China and the earlier batches were made in South Korea. Has anyone noticed any quality or construction differences between the two?
Click to expand...

Paajanenae said:
I had the opportunity to do a setup for a Chinese D-Roc 5 today, and I can confirm that it doesn't differ from my Korean one in any way related to quality. The only difference I could spot is that the fret slots are sawn through and then the edges are filled, while on the Korean one the fretslots are probably CNC'd, leaving the edge of the fretboard intact.

View attachment 5244011 View attachment 5244012 View attachment 5244016
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