You’re best off with a custom set the G needs to be shorter ideally otherwise you end up winding the string onto the post and not just the silk. Fretnation sells them in that configuration for Dingwalls.
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Dingwall Owners Club
- Thread starter FroggyOne2
- Start date
You’re best off with a custom set the G needs to be shorter ideally otherwise you end up winding the string onto the post and not just the silk. Fretnation sells them in that configuration for Dingwalls.
Thanks - and yes, I will probably just ask Jason for the best mix in the end. You did not notice any rattle due to lighter-than-typical gauge on the A string?
That is what the custom set is as Jason just combines the:
B E A strings from the standard 34xx set with the
D & G strings from the 36xx set.
I reached out to him only after buying the standard scale set, D'OH!
Thanks - that's exactly what I did (had some TIs from pre-dingwall basses) on my ABZ5 (and have nut slot issues with the E and A) - but was wondering about the medium scale dingwalls (I would guess JF32x for D&G, JF34x for B E A).
Oh yeah, I gotcha. That sounds about right to me.
And you seem to like them well enough to want them on both your ABZ & Super J huh? How is the string tension on the long scale, not too loose?
I never actually threw them on anything so now I've been sitting on 2 packs of TIs for like a year. I just wanted to try them out but I traded the NG I was going to put them on (I keep the other downtuned to A standard)
I've been on the fence on whether I should just get rid of them. It seems a bunch of you guys like them so I'll probably still try them eventually but I'm afraid I'm going to hate them and rip them off right away anyway.
it was hard to part with yours when they offered the remake. I still sometimes fantasize about getting it back and having both!!! I am glad it made its way to you thou!!!
I have a vague idea of putting TIs only on the Super J, Pressurewounds on the ABZ5, and Nickels on the C5.
The TIs indeed feel loose and flexible but I can deal with that - love their tone - and I do have to adapt my playing and technique.
I tried GHS Precision Flats on my SJ(P) a few months ago. I didn’t like them. Now, I have Payson Nickels on it and am super happy.
I like flats sometimes but I have tapes on my Veillette short scale fretless that I am digging more for older school vibes. I probably won’t try anymore flats on my Super unless they are multi-scale flats.
I like flats sometimes but I have tapes on my Veillette short scale fretless that I am digging more for older school vibes. I probably won’t try anymore flats on my Super unless they are multi-scale flats.
I tried La Bella flats on an ABZ5 and didn't care for them - to me they just didn't jive with the clearer, slightly more 'hi-fi' sound of the long scale.
I also tried La Bella Low Tension Flexible Flats on my SPj5 and while I liked the EADG strings, the low B was just way too small and low tension so it was mostly just farty.
I'd be interested in trying EB Cobalt flats on my SPj5. I put a set on my Squier Rascal and really like them. That said, I'm plenty happy with Elixir nickel on my SPj5.
TI Jazz Flats are my favorite flats ever except for the incredibly unbalanced tension.
I also tried La Bella Low Tension Flexible Flats on my SPj5 and while I liked the EADG strings, the low B was just way too small and low tension so it was mostly just farty.
I'd be interested in trying EB Cobalt flats on my SPj5. I put a set on my Squier Rascal and really like them. That said, I'm plenty happy with Elixir nickel on my SPj5.
TI Jazz Flats are my favorite flats ever except for the incredibly unbalanced tension.
I got my first Dingwall a few months ago. It's a 2021 D.Roc standard tuned EADG and strung w Dingwall nickels .045 - .100. The E string is so much better than any other bass I've played. It's got me curious about experimenting w BEAD. I don't want to widen the nut slots to accommodate the bigger strings since I'm not sure if I'll like the change. I know there's usually a little tolerance on what gauge strings work with a given nut, so my question for the Dingwall experts is: Is there a string type/gauge that will allow me to tune BEAD w/o having to modify my bass? Thanks!
The nut may have enough room to accomodate BEAD strings without modifying. But you can easily widen them just a touch and switch back and forth between BEAD and EADG without experiencing any ill effects.
This video of America Paz caught my attention because of the 6-string Dingwall with custom decorated finish. The band seems a bit off the beaten path but the crowd enjoyed the show and she’s a skillful player as well as singing lead.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AOHs6qY_Eko
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AOHs6qY_Eko
This popped up on bass direct today, if you’ve ever wondered what a headless D-Roc would look like (it’s and Alusonic)
Not a bad idea!
Same, I tried the Precison flats on a normy J and didnt like them at all.
Not sure if i mentioned this before but I thought real long and hard about buying your Super when you had it for sale. Like i was about to pull the trigger when you pulled it down. Was even going to see if you still wanted to sell months later then you posted about refinishing it! Oh well, im glad you kept it but I still think a about it lol
Interesting, I did like Cobalts on a different normy J too so I do think Ill like the TIs (except the tension...What's the point of Dingwall with a floppy B!?)
I do like the idea of having flats on something so I might just wait to see how the import Super line shakes out and scratch multiple itches with that.
Nah, I didn’t know that you were interested in it. I am so glad it didn’t sell because it became the bass that I wanted.
Yeah, i think it worked out for us both!
Anyone with a Payson bridge been able to successfully change the string spacing? I’m trying to tighten it up. Here’s the problem I’m running into.
notice the horizontal break angle at the saddle in the pic. It’s most extreme at the B so I’m using that pic to illustrate it. No matter how much I tighten the set screw on any string saddle, the tension from that break angle pulls the string back over to the far right.
notice the horizontal break angle at the saddle in the pic. It’s most extreme at the B so I’m using that pic to illustrate it. No matter how much I tighten the set screw on any string saddle, the tension from that break angle pulls the string back over to the far right.
Damn I cannot unsee the break angle now. Tried to change the spacing on the B string and same thing - aligns itself right no matter what (combustion 5 with pressurewounds which have a particularly high tension).
