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Dingwall Owners Club

#56,861
davio said:
Another good suggestion, but I'm trying to avoid drilling new holes if at all possible. Current pickups have 2 screws: 1 each in opposing corners. Bartolini P2 (same shape/format that is used by Nordstrand and was used by Dingwall between the current generation and that of mine) uses 3 screws: 2 in corners on bass side & 1 in center of treble side.

Basically, I'm looking for a unicorn of a perfect solution and want to exhaust all possible options before making any modifications to the wood of the instrument.
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At least if you do choose to drill holes honestly that is the least invasive modification you could do. The other option would be to just put in a dummy screw in the pick up or leave the hole empty and a dab of silicone if they would stay positioned properly with 2 screws.

Personally I am rarely one to want to do irreversible mods unless they bring exponential value but in this case if all I had to do is drill one small hole in a pick up cavity to significantly modernize it I would do it in a heart beat. We are talking about a hole that is not finish related, doesn’t diminish the structure l, allows for more adjustable positioning of the pick ups and in the end helps you commit to this modifications.

if you’ve got dingwall willing to sell you guys and can find a shell that fits the hole…. It sounds like a win.
 
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#56,862
AFAIK- the Dingwall pickups are the only ones that used screws in opposite corners.
When I installed Nordstrand Big Blades on my older Z3, I had to drill new pickup holes.

If you have skill with epoxy casting, maybe you could make an impression of your existing pickups, then make your own empty shells for them?

I've purchased empty shells from Nordstrand, but they weren't able to customize them for me.
(I counterbored the mounting holes on my Big Blades to accommodate the 6-32 socket heads screws that Dingwall uses - and after my first attempt, I needed a new set of shells)

[Editorial note: if you elect to drill new pickup holes, please in the name of all that is holy use a drill press to ensure that the screws are perpendicular and only drilled as deep as you intend to go - too many basses end up with pickup holes through the back of the body and tuner holes through the front of the headstock...not to mention factory screws installed askew]
 
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#56,863
I have a couple similar era Dingwall ABs, and 3D printers... I wonder if I could just model one and then print you two.

Edit: Pretty sure this would be somewhat simple to do, actually. I could even likely emboss a variant of DINGWALL on the top, similar to the original. Lemme know if you want me to give it a whirl and what kind of timeline you're on @davio . I have a good bit of "stuff" in the queue to work on already, but nothing that can't be shifted around.
 
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#56,864
Selta said:
I have a couple similar era Dingwall ABs, and 3D printers... I wonder if I could just model one and then print you two.

Edit: Pretty sure this would be somewhat simple to do, actually. I could even likely emboss a variant of DINGWALL on the top, similar to the original. Lemme know if you want me to give it a whirl and what kind of timeline you're on @davio . I have a good bit of "stuff" in the queue to work on already, but nothing that can't be shifted around.
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This is actually one of the possibilities I'm working on! The biggest concern is the exothermic peak temperature as the epoxy cures... PLA and most common 3d printing plastics would melt or at least warp at those temps. I've been playing with a nylon carbon fiber material that supposedly has a crazy high heat deflection. Planning to test it with some prints once the weather here warms up enough (I don't have a sufficiently ventilated climate controlled space). The problem there is that the CF material is pretty rough to the touch and I'm not sure if that's going to go over well. Not really something that can be sanded down and I'm not sure if going through all the steps of Bondo, etc., is worth it. Ultimately, Sheldon will have to approve whatever I end up sending to make sure he's ok with putting his product/pickup in it. Totally understandable as he wouldn't want me touting this "sweet custom pickup Dingwall made for me" in some janky, trimmed-down Solo cup.
 
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#56,865
Hmmm I don't think that's accurate.
The wax I've seen used by a local winder melts at about 120F. The glass temperature of PETG is usually around 160-170F.
You can also just straight wet sand the 3d printed objects. Print them with more walls so you have plenty of working thickness, but as long as you're paying attention, you don't need to sand much at all.
I've been doing 3d printing of various things for personal and professional use for over a decade now :) happy to help, either by doing or just lending a hand to guide someone else to.
 
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#56,867
Selta said:
Hmmm I don't think that's accurate.
The wax I've seen used by a local winder melts at about 120F. The glass temperature of PETG is usually around 160-170F.
You can also just straight wet sand the 3d printed objects. Print them with more walls so you have plenty of working thickness, but as long as you're paying attention, you don't need to sand much at all.
I've been doing 3d printing of various things for personal and professional use for over a decade now :) happy to help, either by doing or just lending a hand to guide someone else to.
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Really appreciate the offer! Might just PM you later on a couple points so it doesn't clutter things up too much here (gotta get back to those drool-worthy pics!).

Dingwall uses G-2 epoxy for setting pickups within shells, not meltable wax (that would make it tons easier, lol). Epoxy has the potential to get incredibly hot very fast, depending on the volume and surface area. There's no reliable info online as to just how hot since there are too many variables (hence testing the same volume they use in the same size/shape container). The person I've been speaking to at Dingwall brought it up as a concern since they haven't worked with 3d printed materials before. I'll be testing a handful of materials when I'm able to (I'm taking on the R&D to make it more likely that Sheldon would be willing to help with this request). I'm hoping a less-abrasive material will be sufficient so I can get a smoother look/feel but we'll have to see. CF filament doesn't seem to sand particularly well in my limited trials.
 
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#56,869
J Posega said:
I wish I had 3D design skills, I'd love to get a 3D printer and make a bunch of stuff. The tech just keeps getting cheaper and more accessible.
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Katoosie said:
Look into CAD. I'm sure you are capable of learning it :)
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For sure! I started with SketchUp about 20 years ago when I made those fEARful 3d models for everyone. Never needed much more until relatively recently (for 3d printing). Fusion360 can be obtained for free (they make you hunt for it, though) and there are TONS of amazing tutorial video series on YT.
 
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#56,870
davio said:
For sure! I started with SketchUp about 20 years ago when I made those fEARful 3d models for everyone. Never needed much more until relatively recently (for 3d printing). Fusion360 can be obtained for free (they make you hunt for it, though) and there are TONS of amazing tutorial video series on YT.
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I’ve been using CAD professionally for 22 years. Shoot me a PM if you need anything. I’d be happy to help.
 
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#56,871
davio said:
Really appreciate the offer! Might just PM you later on a couple points so it doesn't clutter things up too much here (gotta get back to those drool-worthy pics!).

Dingwall uses G-2 epoxy for setting pickups within shells, not meltable wax (that would make it tons easier, lol). Epoxy has the potential to get incredibly hot very fast, depending on the volume and surface area. There's no reliable info online as to just how hot since there are too many variables (hence testing the same volume they use in the same size/shape container). The person I've been speaking to at Dingwall brought it up as a concern since they haven't worked with 3d printed materials before. I'll be testing a handful of materials when I'm able to (I'm taking on the R&D to make it more likely that Sheldon would be willing to help with this request). I'm hoping a less-abrasive material will be sufficient so I can get a smoother look/feel but we'll have to see. CF filament doesn't seem to sand particularly well in my limited trials.
Click to expand...
Ah, good to know. I wonder if they could use a remote heat probe to get the max dissipation while curing. Even if they're within like 3-4C we should be able to find a material that'll work. Just depends on how expensive it'll be, some of the industrial type filaments get eye watering, quick.
 
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#56,872
silky smoove said:
I’ve been using CAD professionally for 22 years. Shoot me a PM if you need anything. I’d be happy to help.
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Much appreciated!

Selta said:
Ah, good to know. I wonder if they could use a remote heat probe to get the max dissipation while curing. Even if they're within like 3-4C we should be able to find a material that'll work. Just depends on how expensive it'll be, some of the industrial type filaments get eye watering, quick.
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Yeah... This nylon carbon fiber is almost $100/kg. Fortunately, they sell in 500g rolls as well. That should be way more than enough.
 
#56,873
I really missed my Super P yesterday. We played a show in Barcelona using rented backline, because we flew to Spain for 2 shows.

It felt like I had to work twice as hard with the backline bass, which was a mexican J-bass :bag:
IMG_2634.jpeg
 
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#56,876
davio said:
Much appreciated!


Yeah... This nylon carbon fiber is almost $100/kg. Fortunately, they sell in 500g rolls as well. That should be way more than enough.
Click to expand...
Curious, do you know what flavor of plastic / material the pickups use now from Dingwall? Depending on what it is we could probably just look at its properties and find something similar enough for this endeavor. I spent a tiny bit of time making models, and it was just too easy, and nearly done. I may test print one just with PETG to test fit. My MK4 is idle anyway since everything I'm working on needs the big format printers, so if I can finish the model this weekend I might do that.
 
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#56,878
Selta said:
Curious, do you know what flavor of plastic / material the pickups use now from Dingwall? Depending on what it is we could probably just look at its properties and find something similar enough for this endeavor. I spent a tiny bit of time making models, and it was just too easy, and nearly done. I may test print one just with PETG to test fit. My MK4 is idle anyway since everything I'm working on needs the big format printers, so if I can finish the model this weekend I might do that.
Click to expand...
I don't, but injection or vacuum molding typically uses plastics that don't work for 3d printing. My plan was to test a couple of the same prints in PLA, PETG, ABS, and this nylon CF and see what survived and go with the least expensive option.:roflmao:

I can send you the model I made that I've been working with if you'd like.
 
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#56,879
davio said:
I don't, but injection or vacuum molding typically uses plastics that don't work for 3d printing. My plan was to test a couple of the same prints in PLA, PETG, ABS, and this nylon CF and see what survived and go with the least expensive option.:roflmao:

I can send you the model I made that I've been working with if you'd like.
Click to expand...
I work in Fusion mostly, but I should be able to import basically any mesh. Definitely don't want to step on toes or duplicate anything :)
 

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