Dingwall Owners Club

[gustobassman]

We brought our reggae to a new venue for us last night. More out in the "country" than we normally play - this place hasn't had reggae before. Just rock, metal, rock tribute, rock covers etc.. it's also the kind of place you wouldn't be surprised if a horse or three were tied up outside.. A couple local metal musicians were tripping I was A) using flats on a Dingwall and B) playing reggae with a Dingwall. The one guy kept repeating to me "how are you making it sound like that", lolol... To our surprise, it went over really well! Yeeeeee hawwwww, Roots and Boots!!

apologies for the FB link...

 

[Derek Williams]

I’ve been using the new multiscale DR Dragonskin+ Steel strings for nearly a week now. If they have a longer life than normal steels, they will definitely be my go to set. They sound as least as good as Dingwall steels, no complaints on that side. Right out of the package they were a bit sticky, similar to how Dingwall steels feel, but that went away after a couple days (faster than normal steels). They don’t feel coated like Elixers, and I also didn’t like how fret buzz/rattle sounded with Elixers too, but these don’t have that issue.

For the price I would want them to last twice as long as normal steels, but will have to see how that goes.

 

[shade_1313]

All this talk of drilling holes is making me nervous. I wouldnt dare attempt it but you guys seem to know what you're doing. I thought about adding toggles to the NG but Ill just let JFB do it if I do.

It’s daunting, and you really want to make sure you do a great deal of information gathering for the correct wiring paths. Especially when it comes to some diagrams you might find online where the illustrated wire colors aren’t the same as those Dingwall uses on their pickups. Multiple, multiple sources and careful planning before you do anything, from starting pilot holes for switches to soldering a connection.

Maybe when this is all done I’ll post a pic of the big, detailed schematic I made.

 

[spiritbass]

The only Dingwall that I drilled into was my NG-2. The screws for the Dunlop strap lock were significantly larger and I didn't want to crack any wood when installing them. I had to take the neck off to get a good angle on the hole in the bass horn. I also had to drill some new holes when installing a Payson bridge on it. Amen to all precautions taken before drilling.

 

[MultiScaleMale]

I’ve been using the new multiscale DR Dragonskin+ Steel strings for nearly a week now. If they have a longer life than normal steels, they will definitely be my go to set. They sound as least as good as Dingwall steels, no complaints on that side. Right out of the package they were a bit sticky, similar to how Dingwall steels feel, but that went away after a couple days (faster than normal steels). They don’t feel coated like Elixers, and I also didn’t like how fret buzz/rattle sounded with Elixers too, but these don’t have that issue.

For the price I would want them to last twice as long as normal steels, but will have to see how that goes.

Ordered a nickel set to try today. A friend had a set on his Dingwall. Seemed like less string noise.

 

[retroXvertigo]

Anyone interested in a 4 pack of nickel 6 string Dingwall strings, hit me up.

I got these during the holidays and haven't cracked them open yet. I'm liking other strings at the moment.

 

[1983L2000]

I’ve been using the new multiscale DR Dragonskin+ Steel strings for nearly a week now. If they have a longer life than normal steels, they will definitely be my go to set. They sound as least as good as Dingwall steels, no complaints on that side. Right out of the package they were a bit sticky, similar to how Dingwall steels feel, but that went away after a couple days (faster than normal steels). They don’t feel coated like Elixers, and I also didn’t like how fret buzz/rattle sounded with Elixers too, but these don’t have that issue.

For the price I would want them to last twice as long as normal steels, but will have to see how that goes.

Replace "Steels" with "Nickels" and I have the same experience and hopes so far (I only played at home / moderate volume - full band rehearsal with drummer Thursday ).

 

[retroXvertigo]

Replace "Steels" with "Nickels" and I have the same experience and hopes so far (I only played at home / moderate volume - full band rehearsal with drummer Thursday ).

That's what I've recently switched to as well.

 

[singlemalt]

I’ve had the Dragonskin nickel .040 set on my AB 4 for a few weeks now. Low hours so far.

I like the tension, a bit stiffer than the Payson 90-35, but not too much. I’m getting used to the new string brightness. Overall, I’m pretty happy. It’s nice to have spanky new strings.

I’m still on the fence about the tacky feel on my finger tips. They aren’t as grippy as stainless but they sure aren’t smooth like nickels.

I’ll play the Dragon skins against the TI jazz rounds which are also very fresh, and switch the sets between the Dbird and the AB.

And after all that, I’ll go back to the Payson nickels. Like I always do.

 

[IvanBassist]

Some nice shots from the latest festival

 

[katolecho]

First time I've used the NG3 yesterday.
Pickup were in position 2, a little bit of eq (bass and low mid).
Some slap riffs.
What a tone.
My music teacher was stunned.

 

[prom311]

First time I've used the NG3 yesterday.
Pickup were in position 2, a little bit of eq (bass and low mid).
Some slap riffs.
What a tone.
My music teacher was stunned.

For all the crap they get about being imports and the made in China BS, they are such amazing instruments.

I came off a 6 week stint recently of no Dingwalls, just playing a ray35 everyday....which isn't terrible by any means but holy cow what a difference. You really notice it after a bit like that. I picked up the NG2 and barely put it down for 2 days. It played smooth like butter, and everything felt so much easier on it.

Then I started playing the Z and had a similar, albeit to somewhat lesser extent, feeling of "daaaamnnnn, why the hell was I playing that other thing"

Thank you again, Mr. Dingwall!

 

[BunchyMutt]

I’ve been using the new multiscale DR Dragonskin+ Steel strings for nearly a week now. If they have a longer life than normal steels, they will definitely be my go to set. They sound as least as good as Dingwall steels, no complaints on that side. Right out of the package they were a bit sticky, similar to how Dingwall steels feel, but that went away after a couple days (faster than normal steels). They don’t feel coated like Elixers, and I also didn’t like how fret buzz/rattle sounded with Elixers too, but these don’t have that issue.

For the price I would want them to last twice as long as normal steels, but will have to see how that goes.

thanks for the update!

 

[BunchyMutt]

I know some of you have shared your experiences with pickup swaps but I'd like a clarification: I'm seeing FDVs described as having a "grind." To me, grind is like growl (think Warwick) but with more upper mid and pick attack. In comparison videos like the John Fox Bass comparison or Dingwall's, the FDVs sound like they aren't as mid forward as FD3s, which seems like the opposite of grind to me. FD3s sound downright nasally in some cases.

I'm asking because I wouldn't mind having a less mid-forward comparison in my Combustion compared to the stock FD3Ns. I'm considering the FDVs but the grind description is throwing me

 

[Bassgeer]

I would not mess around on any bass, let alone ones as expensive as Dingwalls with a hand drill (hand drills, electric or manual are just asking for the hole to end up being crooked).

Drill press only and Brad Point bits are a must unless you want to splinter the body and chip the paint finish. Don't go anywhere near your bass with a a standard drill bit!!!

Putting masking tape on both sides of where you want to drill will also help prevent unwanted chipping of the finish.

Always start drilling from the outside of the body into the control cavity or you will risk chipping out wood from the top of the body and damaging the finish.

Make sure the opposite side of the wood from where you start drilling is properly supported. I use a small block of wood placed in the control cavity to support the top when I am drilling. This helps to further reduce the chance of chipping out wood.

Go slow! There is no prize for finishing the hole quickly. Take your time, slowly and gently advancing the drill though the material.

Could you do it differently or skip some of these suggestions? Sure! But I prefer to minimize the chance of anything going wrong as much as possible.

 

[Bassgeer]

I know some of you have shared your experiences with pickup swaps but I'd like a clarification: I'm seeing FDVs described as having a "grind." To me, grind is like growl (think Warwick) but with more upper mid and pick attack. In comparison videos like the John Fox Bass comparison or Dingwall's, the FDVs sound like they aren't as mid forward as FD3s, which seems like the opposite of grind to me. FD3s sound downright nasally in some cases.

I'm asking because I wouldn't mind having a less mid-forward comparison in my Combustion compared to the stock FD3Ns. I'm considering the FDVs but the grind description is throwing me

Also curious to know this. I wish Dingwall would release a frequency chart of the FD3N pickups like they did for the other pickup options to help compare, since a lot of people start with a Combustion and later look to get one of the Canadian Models. Also would be helpful for people who want to upgrade their Combustion with one of the Canadian pickup options. Maybe this is something @Sheldon D. could consider?

 

[Bassinga]

I know some of you have shared your experiences with pickup swaps but I'd like a clarification: I'm seeing FDVs described as having a "grind." To me, grind is like growl (think Warwick) but with more upper mid and pick attack. In comparison videos like the John Fox Bass comparison or Dingwall's, the FDVs sound like they aren't as mid forward as FD3s, which seems like the opposite of grind to me. FD3s sound downright nasally in some cases.

I'm asking because I wouldn't mind having a less mid-forward comparison in my Combustion compared to the stock FD3Ns. I'm considering the FDVs but the grind description is throwing me

This might be a helpful reference for you guys regarding the sounds of each pickup type.

 

[IvanBassist]

I know some of you have shared your experiences with pickup swaps but I'd like a clarification: I'm seeing FDVs described as having a "grind." To me, grind is like growl (think Warwick) but with more upper mid and pick attack. In comparison videos like the John Fox Bass comparison or Dingwall's, the FDVs sound like they aren't as mid forward as FD3s, which seems like the opposite of grind to me. FD3s sound downright nasally in some cases.

I'm asking because I wouldn't mind having a less mid-forward comparison in my Combustion compared to the stock FD3Ns. I'm considering the FDVs but the grind description is throwing me

I also hear the FD3s sounding more nasal and having slightly more muted top end than FDVs.

 

[BunchyMutt]

This might be a helpful reference for you guys regarding the sounds of each pickup type.

That was one of two videos I linked in my post

 

[BunchyMutt]

Also curious to know this. I wish Dingwall would release a frequency chart of the FD3N pickups like they did for the other pickup options to help compare, since a lot of people start with a Combustion and later look to get one of the Canadian Models. Also would be helpful for people who want to upgrade their Combustion with one of the Canadian pickup options. Maybe this is something @Sheldon D. could consider?

Since the charts aren't real easy to find, I'm including them here for anyone looking for them. IMO I don't find find them particularly helpful since specific frequency values aren't listed, and some of the charts are almost opposite what I'm hearing and what I've seen others describe. There's such a discrepancy I almost wonder if charts were mislabeled